The Hotpoint Customline oven is finally in !!!!!!

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Well..

I need a lightbulb, a cover or screen over that lightbulb if there's supposed to be one. The button to push that turns the lightbulb on. The weather stripping that goes around the door to create the seal when you shut it. A whole bunch of things seem to be missing from it.
 
Well ..........

No light bulb cover came in this unit and "weather stripping" only included a piece across the top of the door and a strip across the bottom, not all around the door. You'll need a second parts oven as no parts are available except after market thermostats (I recommend the Robert Shaw brand) and the plug in burners. These two items are available on Ebay.
 
Hotpoint Customline Catalina Wall Oven Brown

Remodeling and have this oven. We are wondering how to connect it to anyone who wants/needs it before it ends up in a dumpster. In the Milwaukee area.
 
1950s custom line wall oven door hinge

I have a Custom line wall oven 10RJ..the left door hinge is broken/loose. The oven was put in about 1956.
Does anyone have any idea about where and how to look for another one.
Is it possible to fix it, it is loose on/in the oven side, not on/in the door side, has anyone repaired a hinge mechanism ? I really love this oven and plan to keep it.
 
This repair will be a little involved.....

The unit will have to be removed from the wall. If a hinge replacement is in order, a parts oven will be needed. It's hard just to find the hinges alone on EBay, etc. The front door skin will have to come off as will the "can" or the internal compartment of the oven itself. I'm posting some diagram pictures so you get an idea of what you will be looking at and what the procedure is like.

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1950s Custom line wall oven broken door hinge

I am very grateful to you for posting the diagram pictures of the inner workings of the door/hinge on the oven. It helped a great deal to study these. The lever is secure on the door side, the end in the oven is loose, it easily moves up and down. that end is not connected to anything it seems. From what I am understanding from the picture is that the end of the lever has a cable which comes down around a wheel of some sort or round spacer and connects to a spring with a long end that is secured in the back of the oven. The problem probably is with the cable/wheel/spring and/or their connections, the lever is fine. Do you think that is a fair assumption ?
So there are a few parts involved, complex is right !!
The thermostat needs to be replaced so the oven is going to have to be pulled out for that. Sande
 
Glad to help out

The door cable is probably worn on this unit. Replacement thermostats are easy to be had for this unit. I recommend the Robert Shaw thermostat.
 
Thermostat and selector switch part numbers.....

The thermostat replacement I used is the Robert Shaw 5455 series. The selector switch replacement is a GE WB22X5131. I profiled the selector switch replacement in a previous thread. I'm including a list of GE replacement parts numbers for thermostats. Just look for the model number of your unit on this list.

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Broken door hinge?

Hi, do you think the door hinges broken or does the door open and close fine but just seems very heavy and maybe doesn’t close is tightly?

I might have some door hinge parts available. If you can take it apart and find a broken Part and post a picture of it.

The most likely thing to break on this hinge and counterbalance system is the cable or possibly the door, spring itself and investigation will be necessary to see what you really need.

John.
 
1956 Custom Line broken door hinge

Thank you for all of most helpful feedback and information. I tried to attach a picture but they are always sideways(I am working on that too.) By enlarging the diagram and your information the components became clear. The problem must be with the cable/spring and/or the little round part the cable runs under. Do either of you know what the ends of the cable look like? it is a fish hook or a loop? Asking because when the oven is pulled out I'd prefer it to be only 1 time and want to have the most likely part(s) available. I will need to look for the part without a number. I can take a guess on the spring. Finding a technician who had experience and willingness to do this took a long time.
The oven was bought 11/1956-$300.,no model # on the receipt. It was repaired in 1994 by GE technician, with one of the repairs being the thermostat. The thermostat model #WB21X5212, he ids the oven model as 10RJG (the G could be a 6). With that info- found a "new" one in a GE box with that #on the box. Have not recieved it yet, but if it does not work out I will get a Robert Shaw. The oven door is a little over 19 inches wide and approx 20inches long. I am hoping once restored it will have a long future of birthday Cakes. I have stopped using the oven only recently when the thermostat (off about 175*) went on strike. Even with the left door hinge broken the door would only be slightly ajar on the left top. It is a really fine piece of history.
Thank you both for your most valuable help and efforts towards this endeavor. I am hopeful!

h
 
1956 custom line wall oven door spring

Thank you Customline and Combo52 for your information and help with my repair. The thermostat has been replaced and is working great. The problem with the top oven door is that the left hand spring is broken. I got another but it is not the right size. We connected it to the back of the oven wall- now the door is no longer loose but it does not open flat and stays up several inches. It is impossible to get a big pan in the oven. The left hinge may need to be replaced also. I think the right hand spring was keeping the door up on its own, because the door was heavy on the left side and would just fall down when opened. Would either of you know the size of the spring that is needed. One end of the original spring is broken it fell down the oven shaft opening and could not be found. I have attached a picture of the spring and also the arm into the door.
From a 1994 repair slip the spring part may be WB9X5009.
Thanks again. Sande

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Sande.....

I'm going through my spare door parts and I think I might have a spare spring. I'll also provide pictures of the door and hinge assembly.
 
The door parts and the diagram......

These are the door parts laid out in order of operation. Refer to the diagram in the next photo as to how they are mounted. I doubt if the anything happened to the hinge itself as it is a thick piece of steel. Notice where the spring is mounted towards the back of the unit. The spring measures approx. 6 inches. Your cable might have snapped inside the unit.

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1956 custom line wall oven door spring

Kevin, Your information and pictures are a treasure for me, thank you so much.
I do not have the original cable either-perhaps it went down the shaft with the broken end of the spring. I can see from your spring picture that the spring I had gotten and put in had a much longer fixed end hook. Most likely the reason the door is not opening properly.
I would agree with you that the hinge is probably fine and the cable snapped with the hook end still in it. I do have another cable that came with the used spring that is too long. It also has 2 hooks. I have include a pic of that. Your part looks like exactly what is needed. The size makes sense.
In the diagram, the square box that the end of the spring goes to, is that just a set of holes in the wall of the oven box or is it a plate?
I realize how precious a functioning used part is to have when having a restored stove. Would you be able to help me find a spring/cable part as you pictured ? I am assuming you do not want to sell any parts that you have.
Thank you again, Sande

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The outer wall of the oven......

Has a small plate with holes and that is where the spring will attach. I would suggest E bay to search because that is where I found my second parts oven.
 

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