The Hotpoint - Part 1

[swestoyz]

I've had some time to dig into the Hotpoint since it first arrived last Thursday. But first, I figured it was time to recap some history regarding this machine.

Back in 2004 (yes, 14 years ago), this washer, along with a somewhat matching gas dryer popped up on eBay. Todd down in NOLA won the auction and had the set shipped from NY state. He recapped that the original owners of the washer and dryer won them as a prize or raffle, but ended up not using them for some odd reason. Guessing they already had a much more reliable belt-drive Whirlpool/Kenmore or Maytag in service...

The seller of the set ended up buying the house that the Hotpoint set was in from the original owner, guessing in the 90's or early 2000's. They used the Hotpoint set for a few months but decided the washer wasn't big enough for their needs and ended up getting a newer washer and dryer, and then sold the Hotpoint set on ebay.

After Todd got the set in the fall of '04, which was right before AW officially went live, he and Jason tried to get the washer running but ran into a few issues. This is where Robert stepped in with some guidance that the brake would need some attention (more on that in a sec). From what I gather the machine then sat without too much attention, more than likely due to hurricane Katrina, and it continued to sit yet again for over a decade.

Fast forward to 2018, and after some conversation with Todd the Hotpoint washer arrived in Iowa! The model number is 2LW830. Normally, Hotpoint models of this generation would start with LW, and the 8 would indicate the year. What is strange is the machine has a 1968 panel, but it has the 1969 and later positive brake version of the coaxial transmission, and the serial number of AE253092 doesn't match up at all with what the '65 repair manual on AE.org indicates (May of '64). At this point, the actual model year and MFG month/year is anyone's guess.

Upon arrival, I suspected that the washer wouldn't spin but potentially would agitate. Here's the first look:

[this post was last edited: 12/28/2018-15:57]

 

[swestoyz]

The base of the control panel had the knock out for a panel light switch, so I took advantage and recycled a push button panel light switch from a Frigidaire and installed a LED under counter light. While the light is too bright, with light the panel is quite the looker! I'll continue to experiment with different lights to find a more pleasing look.

Otherwise, everything shows very little usage. The rubber is soft and all of the fountain filter parts are in place. The porcelain top doesn't show any scuffs, bleach etching or scratches. MINT! [this post was last edited: 12/28/2018-16:00]

 

[swestoyz]

Positive Brake Transmission

So, what makes this Hotpoint unique from earlier versions of the coaxial transmission is the Positive Brake, which I believe was new in '69 (detailed in the 1970 JC Penney's service manual on AE.org). This new brake was used to abide by regulations (was it UL or Federal?), that dictated that the tub must stop spinning within 10 seconds of interruption from a lid opening. Hotpoint followed through with the new Positive Brake and integrated lid switch/out of balance assembly.

Everything from the pulley up to the base of the transmission is completely different from the earlier versions, starting with a spring loaded clutch.

When Todd and Jason first tried this machine out in 2004, they commented that it would spin during agitation and wouldn't spin during spin. Also, when it was coasting from spin (during agitation I assume), they could hear a "swoosh swoosh swoosh" noise.

In the 123rd thread created on AW, Robert put together this diagram showing the brake pads that may have been in question. While he suggested that they stop using the washer until the issue was addressed, we are about to discover what the real issue was...[this post was last edited: 12/28/2018-16:04]

The HOTPOINT Positive Brake Transmission

Todd and Jason, here are a few diagrams I created using scans from a Hotpoint service manual. I believe what could be wrong with Todd's Hotpoint is the Brake Pads (colored in BLUE) might have fallen off the Brake Plate. I’ve seen this happen twice before with clutch plates, brake plates are very...

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[swestoyz]

Digging In

First up - cross brace and support plate assembly

 

[swestoyz]

Next, you remove a snap ring and washer to pull the drive pulley off the transmission drive shaft. This is the inside of the pulley. When I first got the machine you could hear a rattle in the clutch, ended up being the torque arm not engaging with the hub assembly. I suspect the snap ring isn't holding everything together to keep the torque arm from falling off the hub - this can be addressed with a new snap ring.

 

[swestoyz]

When I pulled the clutch ring out one of the clutch shoes was loose in the pulley...

 

[swestoyz]

With the pulley/clutch removed you can get a good view of the overall brake assembly.

 

[swestoyz]

After you remove the 6 speed nuts, you can pull the cone off

 

[swestoyz]

The diagrams in the service manual are cartoonish illustrations, so hopefully this sheds some light on how this all works. In agitation, the keyed hub the drive shaft will cause the transmission to agitate.

for spin, the keyed drive shaft will spin in the opposite direction AND turn the hub against the cam plate, causing the cam plate to push against the bottom of the cone, pulling the cone/pressure plate away from the brake.

When I pulled the cone away from the pressure plate I heard some parts drop to the cabinet. It ended up being the remains of the bumpers on the cam plate. I was hoping that it was the bumper remains that was causing the machine to not spin. 1/4 fuel line ended up being a fine replacement, and next time I'm inside the brake I'll also replace the bumpers on the hub with the same 1/4 fuel line.

 

[swestoyz]

Next up is removal of the spring after pulling off the hub bearing.

Before I start, please heed the warnings in the service manual. If you remove the two Phillips head screws holding the brake spring retainer in place WITHOUT inserting the temporary removal screws and properly setting the backing nuts AGAINST the spring retainer cup, YOU WILL GET HURT.

 

[swestoyz]

As you slowly turn back the 3/8 nuts the pressure from the brake spring will lessen against the retainer to the point where you can back them out by hand.

 

[swestoyz]

Next, remove the temporary 2 inch screws to free the retainer, exposing the brake spring.

 

[swestoyz]

Almost there...

Next up is the pressure plate, which now is floating on the end of the transmission casting.

 

[swestoyz]

And... Huston we have a problem

With the pressure plate removed we can now finally see what condition the "Brake Pad Assembly" is in.

But hey - what brake pads??

 

[swestoyz]

After pulling off the remains of the assembly it is clearly seen where the pressure plate had worn into the brake pad holder (assembly), and almost wore through it entirely on one side.

In the first shot I've already sanded down the pressure plate, but both the pressure plate and bottom of the transmission were coated in surface rust. Both will need to be cleaned.

 

[swestoyz]

Brake Pad Malfunction

So, at this point progress is stalled. Of course I would love to head down to my local Hotpoint dealer and pick up the WH10X5015 brake pad assembly, however that isn't going to happen. This machine would have been a classic case of "long storage period", and I'm sure you call can imagine that the first time this was used those pads just flew off and landed on the ground below the machine.

The problem is - without a reference assembly I'm shooting in the dark. The Penney's manual states "the upper friction pads are made of a soft resilient material while the bottom pads are made of a hard friction material". That was mentioned as you can only install the assembly one way - if you try to flip and reverse it the flanges won't align on the frame correctly (guess how I figured that out).

So - if someone happens to have a WH10X5015 laying around that they'd sell, I'm interested, heck even a used one would be miles ahead. Knowing how rare any solid-tub Hotpoint is, let alone one of these later brake models, I'm asking for a lot.

Or, if I could get measurements of the pads (height and width) I can try to source pad material for the top/bottom and see if I can have a shop make up a new holder as this one is shot.

Otherwise, it is pretty and having a panel light will help as a night light for the next 14 years.

Ben

 

[Unimatic1140]

Hey Ben, very cool images and description. First question, did the grove in the brake pad holder destroy it? Can the grove be filled in with JB Weld and sanded, will it hold?

MasterMcarr sells all sort of brake/clutch lining material. While you'd have to experiment with different levels and thickness of friction of clutch material, you may be able to get away with low friction or the metal free lining for the upper pads and high friction for the lower pads.

I'm not surprised to hear one of the clutch pads had fallen off as well, I had the same issue when I found the '63 Hotpoint, however that was back in 1996 and Larry had the clutch pads in stock. However I have had other machines such as my ABC-o-Matic with pads that had fallen off, but JB Weld has held them on for over 15 years now without any more issues.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[sfh074]

Similar to Frigidaire .......

Soft resilient material on top and hard friction material on the bottom.

I used kevlar cloth tape to replace the soft side on this brake. Comes in many thicknesses. One I used was 3/32" thick. Sold on ebay ...... Just an idea.

Even though the brake plate is worn, I'm with Robert, JB WELD to fill in the groove, then use it to attach new friction material.

 

[gregingotham]

Good luck!

Very interesting explanation of what is going on. I hope you can find the parts or improvise something. My aunt had this model or maybe one above it that they purchased in the mid-sixties.
What also amazes me is that I’m using a 1973 Frigidaire 1-18 that I rescued off a back porch a few years ago, exposed to the elements and had likely not been used for quite a while. And I did nothing to restore it other than put on a new water intake valve and it works like a charm, although I dont know that it has a brake. The tub coasts to a stop at the end of a spin cycle. Or as my sister says “ a little extra dry time before putting clothes in the dryer”. Lol