My '47 Kenmore has to have the timer turned on to hold position or minutes to turn the motor on, then the agitator and wringer work. You can always gravity drain it, if there is a pump problem.
Tips for a novice looking to buy a wringer washer.
- Thread starter rocksolid87
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Congratulations on the acquisition and great job getting it going!
If you want it to shine up a bit I use Mothers California Gold Carnauba Cleaner Wax on the painted parts after they've been cleaned with simple green or even ordinary dish soap and hot water. Just squirt some on a microfiber cloth, rub into the paint and buff with a clean microfiber cloth after its dried. As an alternative there is a member on here that uses Turtle Wax Chrome Polish on the paint and says he gets really good results, you could probably shine up the chrome on the wringer with that too.
The timer is likely a mechanical one - if there is a way to get the back off you could try a bit of light oil on the gears and maybe some slight heat from a hair dryer to get it going again.
The pump being mechanical as well likely just needs a bit of coaxing to get it going. Like you said, shouldn't be too difficult.
Congrats once again and be sure to keep us up to date on your progress!
If you want it to shine up a bit I use Mothers California Gold Carnauba Cleaner Wax on the painted parts after they've been cleaned with simple green or even ordinary dish soap and hot water. Just squirt some on a microfiber cloth, rub into the paint and buff with a clean microfiber cloth after its dried. As an alternative there is a member on here that uses Turtle Wax Chrome Polish on the paint and says he gets really good results, you could probably shine up the chrome on the wringer with that too.
The timer is likely a mechanical one - if there is a way to get the back off you could try a bit of light oil on the gears and maybe some slight heat from a hair dryer to get it going again.
The pump being mechanical as well likely just needs a bit of coaxing to get it going. Like you said, shouldn't be too difficult.
Congrats once again and be sure to keep us up to date on your progress!
rocksolid87
Member
@Laundress, yes, the service manual for Kenmore wringers on here covers this 1957 model. Also, yes, it's a Whirlpool OEM.
The pump seems to turn fine. It's just a matter of getting it to move properly so it will hold tight to engage with the motor.
Thanks for the insight on the timer. If I can get it going then that'll be cool. Currently the agitator goes even when it's in the off position.
As for the polish and whatnot, I've seen someone use some Mother's chrome polish on the wringer and whatnot. For the rest of it, yes, some good cleaner wax I'm sure would do a fine job. I intend to give it a bit of touchup or a new paint job entirely with some Rust-Oleum appliance epoxy on the skit of the machine and lid. The porcelain doesn't seem to need any touchup. I'll get some better pictures the next time I'm working on it.
The pump seems to turn fine. It's just a matter of getting it to move properly so it will hold tight to engage with the motor.
Thanks for the insight on the timer. If I can get it going then that'll be cool. Currently the agitator goes even when it's in the off position.
As for the polish and whatnot, I've seen someone use some Mother's chrome polish on the wringer and whatnot. For the rest of it, yes, some good cleaner wax I'm sure would do a fine job. I intend to give it a bit of touchup or a new paint job entirely with some Rust-Oleum appliance epoxy on the skit of the machine and lid. The porcelain doesn't seem to need any touchup. I'll get some better pictures the next time I'm working on it.
rocksolid87
Member
Progress being made
Alright, so I made some progress with getting this thing going. Forgive me if I use some of the wrong terminology for parts. I removed the wire that connects to allow for engagement and disengagement of the water pump and gave it a good workout with Deep Creep along with some light brushing with a small wire brush on a dremel to the top shaft. It now moves as smooth as it should and the pump is able to engage with the motor properly. I also removed the pump and opened it as it was not able to turn completely. After cleaning out the gunk and removing the oxidation preventing movement it left two small holes in the metal. We patched that up with some JB Weld and hopefully that'll do the trick. If we should be using something else please don't hesitate to say so.
Before the hoses began to come apart from age we poured a bit of water into the tub to see if it would leak and it did not. Speaking of leaks, I haven't noticed any oil leaking out of the gear box so hopefully that'll hold up fine. The hoses are toast though. Any idea where I should be looking to source some new hose? Is it something that will have to be custom ordered? I've never had to shop for new hose like this, but I thought about calling around to some local places and seeing if they have any idea or could supply it.
Alright, so I made some progress with getting this thing going. Forgive me if I use some of the wrong terminology for parts. I removed the wire that connects to allow for engagement and disengagement of the water pump and gave it a good workout with Deep Creep along with some light brushing with a small wire brush on a dremel to the top shaft. It now moves as smooth as it should and the pump is able to engage with the motor properly. I also removed the pump and opened it as it was not able to turn completely. After cleaning out the gunk and removing the oxidation preventing movement it left two small holes in the metal. We patched that up with some JB Weld and hopefully that'll do the trick. If we should be using something else please don't hesitate to say so.
Before the hoses began to come apart from age we poured a bit of water into the tub to see if it would leak and it did not. Speaking of leaks, I haven't noticed any oil leaking out of the gear box so hopefully that'll hold up fine. The hoses are toast though. Any idea where I should be looking to source some new hose? Is it something that will have to be custom ordered? I've never had to shop for new hose like this, but I thought about calling around to some local places and seeing if they have any idea or could supply it.
rocksolid87
Member
Also, concerning the timer
I forgot to mention that after getting the control panel removed from the front it appears that the timer is not hooked up at all. There are two wire terminals with nothing attached. My mother is not concerned about it, but out of curiosity I tried to find some info about it in the service manual. If I'm reading it correctly the timer would have been tied in with the power cord? If that's the case then the power cord on this machine is not the original. Am I alright just to leave it alone or would it even be a hassle to hook it up again?
I forgot to mention that after getting the control panel removed from the front it appears that the timer is not hooked up at all. There are two wire terminals with nothing attached. My mother is not concerned about it, but out of curiosity I tried to find some info about it in the service manual. If I'm reading it correctly the timer would have been tied in with the power cord? If that's the case then the power cord on this machine is not the original. Am I alright just to leave it alone or would it even be a hassle to hook it up again?
How bad are hoses?
Hose from tub to pump/drain you should be able to fit a lenghth of standard modern sort.
From pump to drain hose what you have may be salvagable.
From another member who restored a vintage Kenmore WW:
"I initially thought the hose needed replacement, but after running hot water through it and conditioning it with Armorall, it is fine...a little stiff, but not brittle. It has the coolest metal "cup" that shrouds the upper part of the hose and is used for the hanger."
See R10 @ https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?45113
Other members have improvised new pump to drain hose.
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?74656
While you have pump out of machine why not take it to local automotive supply or similar place, match hose that fits port diameter, then purchase whatever length is needed. This or simply measure diameter of port drain and order standard drain hose online or otherwise purchase.
Here is a YT video of someone working on their Kenmore WW.
Hose from tub to pump/drain you should be able to fit a lenghth of standard modern sort.
From pump to drain hose what you have may be salvagable.
From another member who restored a vintage Kenmore WW:
"I initially thought the hose needed replacement, but after running hot water through it and conditioning it with Armorall, it is fine...a little stiff, but not brittle. It has the coolest metal "cup" that shrouds the upper part of the hose and is used for the hanger."
See R10 @ https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?45113
Other members have improvised new pump to drain hose.
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?74656
While you have pump out of machine why not take it to local automotive supply or similar place, match hose that fits port diameter, then purchase whatever length is needed. This or simply measure diameter of port drain and order standard drain hose online or otherwise purchase.
Here is a YT video of someone working on their Kenmore WW.
Congrats on getting the pump going and nice to see a progress update! I haven't run into holes in a pump yet but I've seen several threads over the years with JB Weld being used to repair pin holes. If it fails for some reason, there is also plumbers epoxy that some have used to repair holes in tubs and I've often wondered about some of the Flex Seal products but haven't ever tried them yet. I'm sure it will be fine with JB Weld, just keep an eye on it for awhile but others who have used it for this purpose can chime in.
As for the timer, if it were me I'd probably prefer it be functioning. They are handy on a WW. I would expect there should be a wiring diagram in the service manual so I would just follow that to hook it up again. However, there may be a reason someone disconnected it so I'd get out a multi-meter and do some testing with the timer running and not running to make sure. Thats assuming its mechanical and it will countdown and click along once engaged.
For hoses, Launderess has given some great ideas. If you find a junked washer somewhere you might be able to salvage some hose to make something work for the drain and the tub/pump hose. I did use a product called Magic Wrap which I believe is a poly-butyl plumping repair tape to fix a cracked hose underneath my WW. Its interesting stuff and its held up for several years now with no issues.
Good luck and keep us updated on your progress!
As for the timer, if it were me I'd probably prefer it be functioning. They are handy on a WW. I would expect there should be a wiring diagram in the service manual so I would just follow that to hook it up again. However, there may be a reason someone disconnected it so I'd get out a multi-meter and do some testing with the timer running and not running to make sure. Thats assuming its mechanical and it will countdown and click along once engaged.
For hoses, Launderess has given some great ideas. If you find a junked washer somewhere you might be able to salvage some hose to make something work for the drain and the tub/pump hose. I did use a product called Magic Wrap which I believe is a poly-butyl plumping repair tape to fix a cracked hose underneath my WW. Its interesting stuff and its held up for several years now with no issues.
Good luck and keep us updated on your progress!
rocksolid87
Member
The hose is disintegrating. It broke off completely in several places beyond repair. A local farm & home has rubber hose. I'm going today to check it out and make sure it fits. From what I measured it should take about a 3/4in hose which is available there.
Unfortunately the manual doesn't address how the timer is wired in at all.
Unfortunately the manual doesn't address how the timer is wired in at all.
Whirlpool Wringer Washer Technical/Service Manual
From AW's library site does speak to timers, but not much detail.
Only talks about two types; mechanical or electrical, and how to test latter via continuity in case of suspected malfunction.
From a quick glance a my copy of downloaded manual your 1966 Kenmore WW closest WP cousin would be LPW series
From AW's library site does speak to timers, but not much detail.
Only talks about two types; mechanical or electrical, and how to test latter via continuity in case of suspected malfunction.
From a quick glance a my copy of downloaded manual your 1966 Kenmore WW closest WP cousin would be LPW series
Hope you got lucky at the farm store with the rubber hose!
As for the timer, is it actually mechanical or does it have a motor on it? If its mechanical, when you set it on a time does it start clicking away and eventually advance to off?
As for the timer, is it actually mechanical or does it have a motor on it? If its mechanical, when you set it on a time does it start clicking away and eventually advance to off?
rocksolid87
Member
I'll have to double check the timer, but I don't think so. I believe it's electric.
As for the hose, well, a 1 inch is too big, but a 3/4 inch seems slightly too small. I wonder if there's some in-between size?
As for the hose, well, a 1 inch is too big, but a 3/4 inch seems slightly too small. I wonder if there's some in-between size?
I'd be surprised if its electric on a WW, most were mechanical I believe but I could be wrong. Maybe take some pictures including the back and the two terminals you mention and post it here if you are not sure.
If its mechanical, when you set it (other than HOLD), it should start clicking away even if it isn't plugged in or hooked up. If its mechanical and it isn't clicking along, eventually reaching OFF, then it may need a bit of coaxing to get it going again or could be completely broken hence why it was disconnected in the first place. If it does click along, test the two terminals you identified with a multi meter and see if you get continuity when its on and no continuity when its in the off position.
As for the hose, in between 1 inch and 3/4 inch would be 7/8 inch. You should be able to find something like that, it seems like dishwasher discharge hoses are 7/8 ID per the link attached. Or like Launderess suggested, take it to an automotive part shop and see if they can match something up.
Another thing to note, sometimes rubber hoses need to be softened up a bit in hot water to get them to slide onto a port.
If its mechanical, when you set it (other than HOLD), it should start clicking away even if it isn't plugged in or hooked up. If its mechanical and it isn't clicking along, eventually reaching OFF, then it may need a bit of coaxing to get it going again or could be completely broken hence why it was disconnected in the first place. If it does click along, test the two terminals you identified with a multi meter and see if you get continuity when its on and no continuity when its in the off position.
As for the hose, in between 1 inch and 3/4 inch would be 7/8 inch. You should be able to find something like that, it seems like dishwasher discharge hoses are 7/8 ID per the link attached. Or like Launderess suggested, take it to an automotive part shop and see if they can match something up.
Another thing to note, sometimes rubber hoses need to be softened up a bit in hot water to get them to slide onto a port.
UDP 7/8 in. ID x 10 ft. PVC Disposal Discharge Hose T44006003 - The Home Depot
Keep your living space neat and clean by choosing this UDP PVC Disposal Discharge Hose. Can be used with hose barbs and clamps.
www.homedepot.com
Those are good machines. Do you have the agitator cap?
I hope your mother has one of those glorious old "set-sinks" for rinsing!
I hope your mother has one of those glorious old "set-sinks" for rinsing!
