Toaster Oven recommendations?

[phillymatt53]

t - worked fine until I sprayed the cranky dial with WD=40, after that it has always smoked when I turn it on.

LED bulbs often do not last nearly as long as they are supposed too, some less than incandescents.

WD-40 should never be used in anything electrical, people think it's some kind of miracle fix in a can.
And LED's lifespans are dependent on the manufacturer's quality control, along with the product's design.
Running them at or above their limits is poor design, and severely shortens their life.

 

[Chetlaham]

WD-40 should never be used in anything electrical, people think it's some kind of miracle fix in a can.
And LED's lifespans are dependent on the manufacturer's quality control, along with the product's design.
Running them at or above their limits is poor design, and severely shortens their life.

WD-40 is a solvent. Decades ago I thought it could be used on anything and everything. Ended up destroying a lot of bearings, motors, pivots, fulcrums, ect.

 

[DADoES]

WD-40 is a solvent. Decades ago I thought it could be used on anything and everything. Ended up destroying a lot of bearings, motors, pivots, fulcrums, ect.

Common misconception that it's oil, a lubricant, which it's not. I recall my appliance repair mentor years ago telling customers to never use it as such and to always follow-up WITH oil or other proper lubricant when using WD-40 to free-up a seized mechanism.

Signed: Goofy Glenn

 

[phillymatt53]

WD-40 is a solvent. Decades ago I thought it could be used on anything and everything. Ended up destroying a lot of bearings, motors, pivots, fulcrums, ect.

The internet has glorified the uses for WD-40, one website has a "1000 uses for WD-40" listing.
So with that said, since some people think the internet is the best place to go to for good information, the results are all over the map.
The "Don't believe everything you read or see on the 'net" is a reality, causing society to fall victim to misinformation and unsafe practices.

 

[Chetlaham]

Advertising is just that advertising. If it gets sales up, do it any cost even if it means lies or negative attention.

 

[bajaespuma]

Well, so far, my 11 dollar thrift store Black and Decker toaster oven seems to be working well. BUT... the controls on this thing required me to print out a Quick-Guide cheat sheet to post on the wall next to it so I can figure out how to make my morning toast. Somehow, lowering one lever is no longer sufficient for the job(along with another control to set to the preferred doneness that, in most domiciles, is set once for the lifetime of the small appliance).

...and I thought learning Mandarin was difficult.

 

[phillymatt53]

Well, so far, my 11 dollar thrift store Black and Decker toaster oven seems to be working well. BUT... the controls on this thing required me to print out a Quick-Guide cheat sheet to post on the wall next to it so I can figure out how to make my morning toast. Somehow, lowering one lever is no longer sufficient for the job(along with another control to set to the preferred doneness that, in most domiciles, is set once for the lifetime of the small appliance).

...and I thought learning Mandarin was difficult.View attachment 319008

Yeah, that's a bit too much, just to make toast.
No wonder it wound up in a Thrift Store!

I have a regular "pop-up"toaster on the counter for that.
The toaster oven's kept under the counter for when I need it.

 

[Chetlaham]

I remember once I had a Farberware toaster oven that was literally a single dial with numbers all the way up to 10 minutes IIRC. Temp control was an internal thermostat and a back-up thermal fuse.

I loved it, you just put the toast in and turned the dial to the desired time.

I haven't found any pictures of it online to date or anything for sale that is similar expect the dash mini toaster oven but that is 1/3 to 1/4 the size of my previous Farberware oven .

 

[vacerator]

Our former Kitchen Aid lasted at least a dozen years. Using a cheap Kenmore with convection now the kids gave us. They didn't like the cheesy rack glide. It falls onto the glass door easily.
Mom in law loves her full size Breville. They're expensive.

 

[statomatic]

I second that about the Wreck & Destroy 40, banned this out of my workshop since 11 years, now replaced by common sense...

 

[me]

WD-40 is a solvent. Decades ago I thought it could be used on anything and everything. Ended up destroying a lot of bearings, motors, pivots, fulcrums, ect.

It makes for a fairly impressive flame thrower if you use it on a cylinder vac!

When I was younger, my dad asked me to clean and vacuum his old Ford Cortina while he was at work as, having just bought a new car, he wanted to sell it. When I tried to use our old 1960's Electrolux cylinder vacuum cleaner, which he kept in his workshop, I found the motor was seized up with debris from the reusable cloth dustbag as it had come open at the bottom, so I stripped the motor down cleaned and freed it up, fixed the electrics and checked it still worked. Then emptied and sorted out the bag.

Then as I was putting the bag back in, I noticed the inside of the metal case had surface rust, and had the not so bright idea to give it a spray with WD40 and wipe it down with a cloth. Now the suction chamber of a 1960s electrolux vacuum cleaner is not very wide, so I'd sat the motor end of the vacuum on the floor and inverted the can of WD40 and gave what I thought was a light spray, wiped it down and put the cloth bag in and reattached the front and hose.

Sat the vacuum on the back seat of the car and turned it on, and a massive jet of flame blasted out the rear through the open car door, narrowly missing my right leg and making a nice scorch mark on the creosoted fence several feet away. Luckily I didn't set the car alight!

 

[phillymatt53]

It makes for a fairly impressive flame thrower if you use it on a cylinder vac!

When I was younger, my dad asked me to clean and vacuum his old Ford Cortina while he was at work as, having just bought a new car, he wanted to sell it. When I tried to use our old 1960's Electrolux cylinder vacuum cleaner, which he kept in his workshop, I found the motor was seized up with debris from the reusable cloth dustbag as it had come open at the bottom, so I stripped the motor down cleaned and freed it up, fixed the electrics and checked it still worked. Then emptied and sorted out the bag.

Then as I was putting the bag back in, I noticed the inside of the metal case had surface rust, and had the not so bright idea to give it a spray with WD40 and wipe it down with a cloth. Now the suction chamber of a 1960s electrolux vacuum cleaner is not very wide, so I'd sat the motor end of the vacuum on the floor and inverted the can of WD40 and gave what I thought was a light spray, wiped it down and put the cloth bag in and reattached the front and hose.

Sat the vacuum on the back seat of the car and turned it on, and a massive jet of flame blasted out the rear through the open car door, narrowly missing my right leg and making a nice scorch mark on the creosoted fence several feet away. Luckily I didn't set the car alight!

SOMEONE didn't read the Warning Label!

 

[vacerator]

Oh, there are youtube videos of kids and young men destroying vacuums and washing machines with flames, water, bricks, and starting microwaves with aerosol cans inside, etc.

 

[phillymatt53]

Oh, there are youtube videos of kids and young men destroying vacuums and washing machines with flames, water, bricks, and starting microwaves with aerosol cans inside, etc.

Yeah, I've seen those videos, along with those scrap-yard shredder videos.
They are just a twisted fad of destroying things for youtube entertainment and ratings.
"Oh look mommy!......I got 50 thousand followers now for cutting off a cat's tail!"

 

[statomatic]

Yeah, I've seen those videos, along with those scrap-yard shredder videos.
They are just a twisted fad of destroying things for youtube entertainment and ratings.
"Oh look mommy!......I got 50 thousand followers now for cutting off a cat's tail!"

Along with the fake restoration and the free energy videos, yt is full of that crap...

 

[phillymatt53]

Along with the fake restoration and the free energy videos, yt is full of that crap...

Exactly!
At first, years ago, I almost "bought into" that crap, almost believing it was justifiable.
But my extensive, long-term professional training and certification, my 45+ years of working in the shop on customer's equipment, along with my "something doesn't smell right" told me it's all just for ratings, hits, and cheap amusement.

On TV, there's a show called American Restorations, where they "restore" people's various equipment like vintage cars, vending machines, and old audio, etc.
I gotta laugh at the so-called crew there, they don't know what they're even talking about, much less describing the restoration details.
In one episode, they "restore" a 1961 old Philco record player console.
Now mind you, back then those things were all vacuum tube products.
In fact the console that they featured was the exact same model that I restored for a customer about 25 years ago in my shop.
Yet, the goony "technician" of the show who described what he had done stated that he replaced "transistors" in the set.
During the scene, he actually shorted out the chassis of it and blew the shop's main circuit breaker!
Perhaps that was just some added humor done for the viewers, I dunno.
Yeah, right! - what a moron!

Like the old saying goes - Don't believe everything you hear/see on the internet.
Use Common Sense - as my mom used to tell me.

 

[vacerator]

Most of the audio component service vid's. are vague because if they showed or told everything, no one would use their services.

 

[me]

SOMEONE didn't read the Warning Label!

Oh, I knew it was flammable, my intention was to just to coat it with a very light film of oil to stop it rusting and a give it a good wipe over with a cloth to remove any excess. What I hadn't realised is inverting the can had caused a lot more than normal to squirt out, and didn't see as my arm was down inside the body of the vacuum, and most of it must have run straight down into the motor chamber, out of sight.

 

[Chetlaham]

During the scene, he actually shorted out the chassis of it and blew the shop's main circuit breaker!
Perhaps that was just some added humor done for the viewers, I dunno.

I don't know about you, but when working with old equipment I ballast it via a 300 watt light bulb. Or a space heater when dealing with larger stuff. So if I do short anything out it doesn't create a huge blast, ruin solder tracks, and take out the circuit. As is a lot of older equipment is more closely rated around 115-117 volts nominal, so the voltage drop across the ballast is welcome.

 

[statomatic]

Most of the audio component service vid's. are vague because if they showed or told everything, no one would use their services.

Yes, also a lot of these videos shows how to ruin a component.
Seen a video (now deleted) of an Alpage AL-300 cassette deck service, (that's my other hobby), these units are very difficult to service, the guy was showing exactly how to not service it...
- All the screws in the same box, the best way to confuse when reassembly (learned it the hard way after destroying a tape deck solenoid with a too long screw).
- No protection of the faceplate during disassembly of the front board.
- No lubrication of the motors bearing, capstans bearings, reel hubs shafts, head base sliders...
- Tape guides barely aligned by eye (this should be done with special gauges and checked with a mirror cassette).
- And the best of all, using a magnetized screwdriver in a cassette deck mechanism ! (especially for adjusting the heads, without reference tapes of course).

 

[statomatic]

I don't know about you, but when working with old equipment I ballast it via a 300 watt light bulb. Or a space heater when dealing with larger stuff. So if I do short anything out it doesn't create a huge blast, ruin solder tracks, and take out the circuit. As is a lot of older equipment is more closely rated around 115-117 volts nominal, so the voltage drop across the ballast is welcome.

Sure, on audio forums we use to say "Variac and DBT (Dim Bulb Tester) are your friends", also 10mA RCCB.

 

[phillymatt53]

Most of the audio component service vid's. are vague because if they showed or told everything, no one would use their services.

Those audio - radio etc YT videos pretty much just hobby people trying to appear like a trusted servicer.
"Backyard Mechanics" is what I call them.
Hey, I'm not against someone looking for income, or added benefits, but don't convince or deceive people that you're "the man" to come to, when you're really not
Hand them a screwdriver, a radio shack soldering iron, and a cheap Harbor Freight multimeter, and instantly they become someone to trust.
LOL!
They can even show their workbenches loaded with real test equipment, and use terminology for things just to sound "professional".
I can still see through the BS.

Again, it's just to gain their existance in the online world, perhaps with motives of making money from people who contact them for services.
The average viewer doesn't really know or understand about proper servicing.
Because these so-called Internet Techs are easy for Me to pick out.
I know the difference between a Professional and a hobbyist.
Some, are clearly educated from DIY Internet "learning", which is not a reliable or qualifiied source giving them the knowledge only learned though accredited classroom/institutional courses.
I've watched some of those videos, and just laughed, noting their mistakes and improper procedures - things I'd never waste my time on.
I didn't bust my azz going though the proper educational training for nothing.

AND, I've seen the results of these un-qualified internet junkies enough of times, when a customer brought something into my shop with horrendous and sloppy "repairing", due to those Online wanna-be techs.
Which cost the customer additional money and my labor time to correct.

 

[phillymatt53]

Oh, I knew it was flammable, my intention was to just to coat it with a very light film of oil to stop it rusting and a give it a good wipe over with a cloth to remove any excess. What I hadn't realised is inverting the can had caused a lot more than normal to squirt out, and didn't see as my arm was down inside the body of the vacuum, and most of it must have run straight down into the motor chamber, out of sight.

Not to mention that even if cleaned of fluid, the vapors remained.
POOF!

 

[phillymatt53]

I don't know about you, but when working with old equipment I ballast it via a 300 watt light bulb. Or a space heater when dealing with larger stuff. So if I do short anything out it doesn't create a huge blast, ruin solder tracks, and take out the circuit. As is a lot of older equipment is more closely rated around 115-117 volts nominal, so the voltage drop across the ballast is welcome.

All good thinking there, Chet.
In my electronics servicing, I have a Variac - 0 to 140Vac, 10A max.
And I also custom designed a smaller Variac with selectable current limiting, and a variable bipolar DC supply up to 90Vdc.
Plus it's got two meters to monitor actual real-time volts and current.

My custom "Vari-Volt supply"

 

[phillymatt53]

Yes, also a lot of these videos shows how to ruin a component.
Seen a video (now deleted) of an Alpage AL-300 cassette deck service, (that's my other hobby), these units are very difficult to service, the guy was showing exactly how to not service it...
- All the screws in the same box, the best way to confuse when reassembly (learned it the hard way after destroying a tape deck solenoid with a too long screw).
- No protection of the faceplate during disassembly of the front board.
- No lubrication of the motors bearing, capstans bearings, reel hubs shafts, head base sliders...
- Tape guides barely aligned by eye (this should be done with special gauges and checked with a mirror cassette).
- And the best of all, using a magnetized screwdriver in a cassette deck mechanism ! (especially for adjusting the heads, without reference tapes of course).

LOL!
Like I mentioned in my post below.....
"Hand them a screwdriver, a radio shack soldering iron, and a cheap Harbor Freight multimeter, and instantly they become someone to trust."

 

[Chetlaham]

All good thinking there, Chet.
In my electronics servicing, I have a Variac - 0 to 140Vac, 10A max.
And I also custom designed a smaller Variac with selectable current limiting, and a variable bipolar DC supply up to 90Vdc.
Plus it's got two meters to monitor actual real-time volts and current.

My custom "Vari-Volt supply"

View attachment 319036

Nice!

Is the supply isolated as well? Do you have pics of the inside or a wiring diagram? If not, that fine. Just super curious about technical details.

Ungrounded secondaries with an electro static grounded shielding between the primary and secondary are a great way to achieve safety when testing live. (Still something you technically ought to avoid) If the capacitance and resistive leakage to ground on the secondary 120 volt circuit is low enough, you don't even feel the shocks.

 

[phillymatt53]

Nice!

Is the supply isolated as well? Do you have pics of the inside or a wiring diagram? If not, that fine. Just super curious about technical details.

Ungrounded secondaries with an electro static grounded shielding between the primary and secondary are a great way to achieve safety when testing live. (Still something you technically ought to avoid) If the capacitance and resistive leakage to ground on the secondary 120 volt circuit is low enough, you don't even feel the shocks.

I'd have to dig though the packed filing cabinet for info, but I assure you the Vari-Volt's got proper grounding and protection for anything connected for testing.
It's AC max on the small variac is about 2 amps, that black square is a 3-prong grounded AC receptacle.
The switchable DC "plus and minus" outputs are right next to the custom labeled meters on the right.
I sometimes work on delicate audio stuff, transistor radios, etc, and insist on taking precautions, particularly if something is not mine.

 

[Chetlaham]

I'd have to dig though the packed filing cabinet for info, but I assure you the Vari-Volt's got proper grounding and protection for anything connected for testing.
It's AC max on the small variac is about 2 amps, that black square is a 3-prong grounded AC receptacle.
The switchable DC "plus and minus" outputs are right next to the custom labeled meters on the right.
I sometimes work on delicate audio stuff, transistor radios, etc, and insist on taking precautions, particularly if something is not mine.

I don't dispute the grounding or insinuate that it is inadequate in the basic sense, however an ungrounded secondary when done correctly has its perks. At least that is how I feel and what works for me.

The rest I do like. I am kind of envious to be honest. Very clean and professional looking.

 

[phillymatt53]

I don't dispute the grounding or insinuate that it is inadequate in the basic sense, however an ungrounded secondary when done correctly has its perks. At least that is how I feel and what works for me.

The rest I do like. I am kind of envious to be honest. Very clean and professional looking.

Oh, sorry Chet,
I didn't mention the fact that the DC supply section is powered by a hefty power transformer, who's primary is fed from the Variac.
So with that stated, the secondary voltage feeds a full wave rectifier, several stages of filtering, with output determined from the Variac, which results in 0 to 24 V plus/minus, or 48 v plus/minus, depending on a range selector switch.
This "dual" or bipolar voltages are sometimes used in audio amplifiers so it comes in handy at times.
And so yes, the DC is totally isolated from the AC line.
Any of an amplifier's internal grounding to it's AC line/chassis is not affected.

And thanks for the nice comment about the visual design.
I'm picky as hell about all my "custom" work.