Toaster Trouble

[perc-o-prince]

So, when you press the handle down, you get a loud buzzing sound and the handle won't stay down when you release it. I sold a toaster on eBay that was working when I tested it, but when received is doing the above. I remember hearing that noise many years ago on a toaster but never found out what it was.

Is it something the receiver can easily adjust or is the unit "toast?" (ducks and runs!!)

Chuck

 

[turquoisedude]

It can be fixed but the buyer would have to take the toaster apart and check the trip and eject mechanism.  An easy fix for someone who has done it before but may not be so easy for the uninitiated, alas...

 

[perc-o-prince]

Thanks, Paul. It IS something that could have jostled loose during shipping then, right?

 

[turquoisedude]

For sure! I've got a 4-slice tandem Proctor-Silex that went weird in me when we moved back in '07.  It just needed a bit of a tweak to re-seat the toast rack release.

 

[perc-o-prince]

Paul- could you please email me some directions on how to correct this? I need to get them to the buyer.

Chuck

 

[turquoisedude]

Chuck, I  just sent you an email with some instructions and a picture.  Email me if you have any further questions.

 

[mattl]

You don't want to share with the rest of us?  Never know when that knowledge might come in handy...

 

[turquoisedude]

Well.... turns out what I sent didn't work real well.  I guess like a vintage washer or dishwasher, it's a good bet to get the service manual before you start to mess around!  

 

However, here are some very general steps that I sent to Chuck: 

 

<blockquote style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px; font-weight: normal;">

<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; border-left: 1px solid #cccccc; padding-left: 1ex;">
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; border-left: 1px solid #cccccc; padding-left: 1ex;">- unplug the toaster and allow it to cool completely before attempting to take it apart
- remove the toast lever knob.  On some older models, there may be a set screw that holds the knob in place.
- remove the knob of any other controls such as the lighter-darker selector. They may pull off but in some cases, they may also have a set screw
- turn the toaster upside down and examine it to find the screws which hold the base to the toaster body. *if possible, take pictures of the toaster as you disassemble it*  Remove the screws and set aside.
- the base can now be removed
- there may be additional screws to be removed in order to remove the toaster shell.  When all have been removed, carefully loosen the shell from the toaster body. Carefully lift the toaster body out of the shell.
- examine the toast lever mechanism and gently lower the lever as if you were making toast.  Observe if the lever hooks on to a bar or slot.  If it does, gently pull that bar or slot down -it should release the toast rack mechanism. If not, raise the toast rack manually, then check to see if the release bar can be moved.  It may be stuck or have changed position in transit.  Gently try to lower the toast rack again and release it by moving the release bar.  *note - the release bar may move on another bar or rod and require a small amount of lubricant to move smoothly.  If so, apply only a high heat automotive lubricant.
- if the toaster mechanism can be placed on a heat-proof and non-conductive surface such as dry wooden chopping board, I would recommend testing the toaster before reassembly to ensure the toast rack is releasing.  If not, observe the release bar as the toasting cycle progresses. Allow the toaster to cool, then re-assemble.</blockquote>
</blockquote>

</blockquote>

Now, this was written with a GE Toaster in mind (just because that was the last one I worked on...).  The mechanisms of brands like Proctor-Silex, Toastmaster, and the non-radiant control Sunbeam models are similar but not identical.  I'd say the best thing to do is dismantle and observe the toaster's mechanism.   The attached picture is of a GE mechanism that I found in one of those old "Repair Appliances at Home" Do-It-Yourself books.  

 

Other than that, my advice is probably not that great, alas...  

 

[turquoisedude]

Further instructions and photos

The toaster that Chuck has been having trouble with is one of those lovely Sunbeam glass-panel models.  While I don't have one of those, I have a chrome-body Canadian-made model that uses the same toasting mechanism and to try to help diagnose the problem, I took mine apart.  I also took pictures as I went along which may help someone else along the way!  

 

Now, the problem Chuck described is that the toaster will buzz as soon as the toast lever is lowered.  Usually these toasters will buzz like the devil at the end of the cycle when the toast is supposed to pop up but doesn't.  Either way, you have to get inside the toaster to find out what's wrong. 

 

First step - to be able to remove the end panels, the knobs for the toast lever and light-dark selector have to be removed.  On a Sunbeam of this era, they are simply pulled off.  Older toasters and other manufacturers used a set screw so check the underside of each lever before trying to remove them.  

 

[turquoisedude]

Next, the toaster body or shell and end panels are removed.  This Sunbeam has only 4 screws and when they are removed the body is freed of the end panels.  

 

[turquoisedude]

Now the toaster body should be loose.  Gently pry it away from the bottom of the end panels.   This will in turn loosen them.

 

On this model, there is a lip on the inside of each end panel that the top of the toaster body slips into.  Gently pull down on the panel and it should slip right off.     Be careful not to damage or disconnect the power cord (I'll get back to that...)  - I wanted to observe the mechanism in operation without the shell so I left the cord connected.  

 

 

 

[turquoisedude]

Now the toaster mechanism will be fully visible.   In the second picture, you see the 'cord end' of the toaster.  If the toaster is not heating up at all, check continuity on the power cord but also check to see if the toast rack plunger is making contact with those strips that are connected to the power cord.  It can happen that the contacts are bent and no longer making a connection.  

 

[turquoisedude]

This type of toaster has been referred to as a 'relay and solenoid' type of toaster.  In operation, when the toast lever is pressed down, power is sent to the toasting elements.  Under the toaster are a series of bimetal bars which will bend as they heat up.  The distance between the bars is adjusted by the light-dark selector - the further apart they are the longer the toasting cycle or the darker the toast.  There is an adjusting screw that you can see in the third photo to vary this distance if necessary.  

There is one more bimetal element at the top of the timing unit - when this is bent to the right spot, it will make contact with a wire that leads to a solenoid to the left of the toast lever.  The solenoid is activated and will release the toast rack, popping the toasted bread back up.  

The first photo shows the toasting rack engaged - if you press in the solenoid spring, the toast will pop up. 

 

I wanted to try to video this process, but here's where the joke is on me... As I disassembled the toaster,  the power cable failed on me.  I know this one has been apart at least twice before, so I guess the extra stress and flexing I gave the cable did it in!  It's repairable, but I don't have the right-angle disconnects as are found on the original cable...  

 

Now, as to why a toaster like this would buzz continuously, I can only guess that the light-dark timing screw shifted so that the uppermost bimetal bar is always completing the circuit to the solenoid.  OR perhaps something on the light-dark adjustment (that bar indiciated by the screwdriver in the fourth photo connects to the timing unit); perhaps something has slipped and is forcing this bar into constant contact.  

 

Anyway, I hope this helps someone!!