Transmission Agitator Shaft is Stuck Inside The Gear Case (Transmission Part #6-2097750)

[lucas0830]

My Maytag washer was not agitating,but it did work on the spin cycle.

So I unbolted the transmission cover to look inside the transmission.There was no water mixed in with the oil.

The agitator shaft is stuck inside the Torque and Yoke Assembly.(The white plastic piece inside the transmission)

Does anyone know if there is a way to get the stuck agitator shaft out with damaging the shaft or the plastic white piece.

Or am I going to have to look into getting another transmission.

Here are a few pictures of the transmission.

Thanks Jerry

 

[combo52]

Unfortunately

With the condition of the agitator shaft in the critical seal area, you really need to find another transmission. These are still pretty plentiful, owning a vintage washer like owning a vintage car can get expensive, but the parts are out there. But if you wanna do a lasting repair, you really have to do it in a first class manner otherwise the machine will only last months or year so it best if you don’t replace these critical parts.

John

 

[lucas0830]

Replacing The Transmission

Thanks John for steering me in the right direction,I appreciate it.John do you or anybody you know have a transmission available.

I live down by the Phila airport,I would be willing to drive to go get the transmission.

Thanks Jerry

 

[qsd-dan]

The upper bearing and shaft have seized up together, making that shaft difficult to remove. I'm used to the older pitman transmission where I could flip the cover over and pound the shaft out from the bottom using a rod when this happens. Either way, you're better off finding a good used transmission unless you want to go through the time and expense of finding a machine shop willing to machine and press in a new upper sleeve bearing and fix the upper shaft.

 

[lucas0830]

Replacing The Transmission qsd-dan

Thanks for information qsd-dan,I really apprecite it.John said the same thing as you,to replace the transmission.With the agitator shaft in poor shape also,I agree with you guys,to just put another transmission in the washer.

Jerry

 

[qsd-dan]

There's one good used transmission on eBay where the shaft appears to be in great condition. They're asking a price that's very close what these cost brand new, including a stem and boot seal kit, before they went obsolete so they're overpriced by my perspective. There's even an NOS one in the box for $200 which looks like a great deal until you see the $200 shipping price.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1267307228...kE/1weqanI5v0Pb4rulP9epVY=|tkp:Bk9SR7CJp7TZZA

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[lucas0830]

Thanks for the Tip qsd-dan

Thanks for the tip on that transmission qsd-dan.I did end up buying the new transmission off of that link you sent me on e-bay.

I know I probably overpaid,it was $200 for the Transmission,$130(UPS Ground) for the shipping,and $19 tax.So the transmission ended up costing $349.

Do you know if the transmission has oil in it already?If it does, do I have to change the oil since it's been sitting for over 30 yrs.Or is it fine since the transmission has not been used yet?

Is the transmission suppose to come with a Mounting Stem and Boot Seal Kit?

Should I change the Ball Bearing,Radial above the brake package (part #Y200720)since I did have a water leak down the shaft,before I put the new transmission in.

Jerry

 

[combo52]

Yay, a new transmission

The transmission should come with the mounting stem and seal kit, I would not change the oil in a new transmission. It should not have deteriorated. They do not use detergent oils in washer transmissions they don’t tend to deteriorate from just sitting. It does come filled with oil yes.

I would say you got a good Price on that transmission, almost any new washer today it would cost $300 or more for a transmission let alone vintage machine.

Examine the radial bearing if it has any sign of roughness when turning or noise noise replace it it’s likely that it survived. I’ve hardly ever seen a bad one. It’s not gonna wear out from you in the future. Also check the upper tub bearing clean it thoroughly make sure there’s no scoring or damage there.

Check the outer tub carefully for rust sand any bad areas and seal with something like poor 15, rust was unfortunately a problem on these later Maytag dependable care washers other than that you should be good to go for quite a few years since you’re investing in the washer, I would try to find a new timer and hold onto that that’s what tends to kill them and of course, make sure the damper pads are glued in place and lubricate them and you should be good to go for quite a few years.

John

 

[qsd-dan]

Wow, you're dedicated to that washer. I say it's a great move, there's no washer made today with this quality and durability along with flexibility. Speed Queen TC5003 has a decent build quality but very inflexible as far as cycles go. Control boards these days just don't hold up to a good mechanical timer of yesteryear.

I have heard of a couple rare incidences where a few orbital transmissions were installed at the factory without oil but surprisingly ran for years that way. One of those stories came from a Maytag dealer I chatted with who's store donated a Maytag washer to a local university. A few years later they got a call that the machine quit. After some diag time, the transmission was cracked open and didn't have one drop of oil in it.

I'd pop the cover just to make sure it's full of oil and the oil looks good. It doesn't cost more than a little time and some RTV. Better safe than sorry.

The transmission should come with a stem boot and seal kit. Use that one, not that aftermarket junk.

The radial bearing should be fine. It's replaced by removing the brake package from underneath the machine, not from the top. When the radial bearing goes bad, the machine rumbles like an express train. That bearing is a very common one used in automotive axles and other applications. It's cheap and easy to come by, don't spend big $$ getting one from Whirlcharge...it comes from China, anyways. Use a good Japanese bearing.

This is what a radial bearing sounds like when it's on its way out:



Since you have gone to this far into the machine, be sure to lube the damper pads. That's the next item that takes out these washers and the aluminum damper is obsolete. Also check around the outer tub for rust and treat it now before it gets worse.

 

[lucas0830]

Thanks John and qsd-dan for All The Information

I got the Transmission today,there was no OEM Mounting Stem and Boot Seal Kit with it.

I sent the seller a message asking him to mail me the Mounting Stem and Boot Seal Kit.Waiting for them to get back to me.

Not feeling good about installing that after market Mounting Stem and Boot Seal Kit on a new transmission.Read the reviews from Amazon,a lot of people had problems with the aftermarket one's leaking.

Just want to make sure I cover everything when I am putting this transmission back.Here is the list.

1)Motor Glides and Springs
2)Lube Damper Pads
3)Belts I have are Only a Couple Months Old
4)Open the New Transmission and Make Sure There is Oil in There.
5)Close the Transmission back up with a Red RTV Silicone Gasket Maker.(let it dry for 24 hrs.before using)
6)Should I Oil the Transmission Shaft That Goes Into the Damper Base?
7)Should I Oil the Gear in the Damper Base Where the Transmission goes into.
8)Do Lube the Top part of the Steel Agitator so it's easier for the Plastic Agitator to Come Off in The Future.?(What Kind of Lube)
9)Lube the Brake Rotor Bearing.(All I Have is Multipurpose Black Grease.Will That Work)?
10)I fixed any rust spots on the inside and outside of the outer drum.
11)Put a Little Supco Turbine Oil at the top of the sleeve before you install the Mounting Stem and Boot Seal.

I was not going to remove the Brake assembly and check the Radial Ball Bearing.I watched that video you sent me qsd-dan and never had any of that noise coming from my washer before,so I am thinking the Radial Ball Bearing is alright.

If the Seller does not ship me Mounting Stem and Boot Seal,does anyone know where I can buy a OEM (part #6-2095720)
Mounting Stem and Boot Seal.

One other question,I seen people put the sleeve on the transmission shaft dry.And I have also seen people put a little turbine oil on the transmission shaft where the sleeve goes.Which one is the correct way?

Jerry

 

[qsd-dan]

"Should I oil the Gear in the Damper Base Where the Transmission goes into?"

The splines that fit inside the brake package? Use grease there, no oil. Also grease the helical shaft splines, not too much though.

"Do I Lube the Top part of the Steel Agitator so it's easier for the Plastic Agitator to Come Off in The Future.?(What Kind of Lube)"

Use a thin coat of Vaseline in the agitator shaft.

"Lube the Brake Rotor Bearing.(All I Have is Multipurpose Black Grease. Will That Work)?"

That should work but try to get all of the original grease out of the bearing first. Different greases don't mix, causing them to repel each other and starve the bearing(s).

 

[coldspot66]

I have an OEM stem & seal kit, if needed.

 

[lucas0830]

OEM Stem and Seal Kit

Thanks Coldspot 66,I am interested in the kit.Let me give the seller from Ebay that I got the new transmission from a day to get back to me.I asked them to ship the Stem and Seal Kit to me.Hopefully they will respond,and let me know what's going on.

I am sending you a e-mail,Thanks again.

Jerry

 

[lucas0830]

Grease For The Helical Shaft Splines

Thank you qsd-dan,for the information.Can you tell me what kind of grease is recommended for the Helical Shaft Splines on the Transmission and Splines inside the brake package?

Jerry

 

[qsd-dan]

"Can you tell me what kind of grease is recommended for the Helical Shaft Splines on the Transmission and Splines inside the brake package?"

The thickest stuff you have on hand. It helps prevent a knocking sound with each backstroke of the agitator, especially if the splines of the aluminum brake package are getting worn. The faster agitation of the orbital transmission will do that over many years or from hard use due to overloading. Make sure the transmission is firmly seated down in brake package splines.

 

[lucas0830]

Grease for the Helical Shaft Splines

qsd-dan the grease I have is Super Lube Multi-Purpose Synthetic Grease,it's a clear grease.Will that work for the Helical Shaft Splines?

Should I clean the old grease out of the Splines inside the brake package,before I apply the new grease?

Jerry

 

[qsd-dan]

Yeah, that should be fine, I prefer to use thicker stuff. Be sure to clean the old grease off the agitator and brake splines. Different greases don't mix.

 

[lucas0830]

Grease

What kind do you recommend qsd-dan,I can get it.This stuff I got don't look that thick.The tube say's it is Grade 2.

Thanks,Jerry
[this post was last edited: 11/4/2024-15:23]

 

[qsd-dan]

Marine grease used for wheels bearings of boat trailers.