Have been trying to get my GE Potscrubber 940 dishwasher completely repaired - repairman has tried hard, and charged very conservatively for his work, which I greatly appreciate. However, when I had to have the motor replaced after so many years (original motor) there were two different selections at Repairclinic.com, bought the one motor, dishwasher cleaning great, but when cycle is finished, arms continue to move, and pump continues to run, though water has properly drained out. Right now I try to remember to open the door when done (I love to use heated drying) - to stop the arms and pump, and at least the interior is hot to dry fairly quickly with the door open and the exhaust fan on my gas range turned on. Also, at times the unit will trip my GFI outlet on the kitchen sink, will be fine once I reset the outlet, won't blow it again. I have replaced the motor, heating element, and a few other things over the many years. I installed a Floodstop unit under it so IF it ever develops a major leak, it will shut off the flow of water to the dishwasher. FS units also test the valve monthly to make sure it works when it is needed too. I did find that I keep leaving the discharge water hose up on my kitchen sink when doing laundry, and the water leaks down unto the electrical outlets down under the sink, tripping the GFI. I see no leaks when simply using the dishwasher though. Trying to pay more attention to putting the washing machine discharge into the kitchen sink area, and not up on the sink, trying to figure out a way to prevent this from being easily done, and put plastic sheet protectors, as used in college notebooks, to tie together and direct any water away from all electrical stuff ( I have a huge plastic bin under my kitchen sink to catch any leaks, as I am on the second floor, I have a neighbor underneath me) - I also have tried to seal sink well with white sugru glue, which does a great job after it dries for a day or two. Just bought more to try to seal any more small leaks. So, is anyone in the San Diego county area good at "vintage" appliances? I also have a back-up microwave, an Amana RR3, to have serviced and a light socket replaced, as well as doesn't sound chime anymore - when I received it, tried using it and it works great. But after this many years would like it cleaned and checked over on the inside. Any info appreciated, not sure how to further track down which if the two pump motors mentioned earlier would be appropriate, if the correct one was bought, RC has not been able to help further. Or info on why when the washing cycle is done that the water would pump out properly, but then continue to operate the pump? Appliance repair man has tried to fix this several times, and did a great job on servicing my ancient GE spacemaker electric dryer.
Trouble repairing GE Potscrubber 940 dishwasher
- Thread starter appledude1
- Start date
Help Support :
Do you know the part number of the pump and motor assembly you installed? There are at least two pump types, one for most older style GE dishwashers and one for 2008 onward GE dishwashers with a fine filter. The 2008 onward pump has a brown grate and no secondary spring on the drain solenoid. The valve will stick open if installed in older style GE dishwashers.
Which takes me to your motor. The motor on your dishwasher should run continuously during the wash, fill and drain. The motor only shuts off at the end of the cycle when it is time to dry.
If the motor is running into the dry cycle, you most likely have a bad timer.
Which takes me to your motor. The motor on your dishwasher should run continuously during the wash, fill and drain. The motor only shuts off at the end of the cycle when it is time to dry.
If the motor is running into the dry cycle, you most likely have a bad timer.
I will try to attach pics of the old pump motor - I think I saw my dishwasher was installed in 1990 - I assume it would need the 2nd pump - so from what you are saying, where the "grate" on this is white, the newer one would be brown? Would that sticking open valve cause the pump motor to continue to run after pumping all the water out? I will check repair clinic again, but I had a heck of a time finding this pump - everyone said they had it, when I ordered it, they said they didn't have it - how can I send pics?
The grate should be white. You need part number WD26X10013.
The drain valve remaining open will cause any water entering the tub (after the drain) to be pumped out.
Below each reply box there is an "Attach files" option. Click on it and it will let you upload pictures from your computer or device.
The drain valve remaining open will cause any water entering the tub (after the drain) to be pumped out.
Below each reply box there is an "Attach files" option. Click on it and it will let you upload pictures from your computer or device.
That is the pump number I bought and was installed. Originally I think there was another pump showing for that model also, I think 10051 or something like that. I have seen that pump listed, but if I click on it not showing for my model number. So I am assuming you are thinking that it is not the wrong pump causing this, but the timer? I had that replaced, I show I bought it at Repair Clinic, but I asked them to doublecheck, I think they may have cancelled that order and I had to use a used or NOS part off ebay or amazon.
Attachments
I was reading post from samurai fix it guy on my DW - noticed I tried to order the timer from Repair Clinic, which showed that last number as 672. They were not able to get the timer, had to cancel. The timer I bought off ebay was model numbers WD21X626, WD21X0626, 271598, is this likely why the DW is having the motor run during the heating cycle? I have ordered the timer off ebay, supposedly new, WD21x672. Will install this myself. I am surprised it is so hard to find all of the model numbers of timers that will work on a dishwasher model.
The replacement permanent split capacitor motor pump will look, sound and feel different from your original shaded pole motor pump.
The new pump is more efficient and holds less residual carry over water making for better washing and rinsing.
The pump is most likely running in the dry cycle because the timer contacts have welded themselves together. This happens with electrical equipment after many years of use.
Most of the timers for these dishwashers are no longer available and a lot of times the wrong part or model number are attached to the timer stock listings from my experience.
Take a pic of the old timer and the new timer and post them here. Typically there are a list of numbers on the back of the timer that match.
The new pump is more efficient and holds less residual carry over water making for better washing and rinsing.
The pump is most likely running in the dry cycle because the timer contacts have welded themselves together. This happens with electrical equipment after many years of use.
Most of the timers for these dishwashers are no longer available and a lot of times the wrong part or model number are attached to the timer stock listings from my experience.
Take a pic of the old timer and the new timer and post them here. Typically there are a list of numbers on the back of the timer that match.
As an example, this timer listed as WD21X626 has 129D9177P22 stamped on the back of it:
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