Trouble with 800 series piano key! Help

[floyde]

Well I guess I didn't really clean it properly

I stuck a paper towel up where the water comes in the machine and moved it around. I didn't tak e anything apart .

 

[revvinkevin]

 

 

Floyd, the hot & cold water supply hoses connect TO the inlet valve at the back of the machine.

 

2 small bolts secure the inlet valve to the cabinet from the back where the hoses attach.

 

There are also 6 (color coded?) wires that connect to the valve, along with 1 hoses, which is accessed from INSIDE the washer (circled in RED below).

 

#1. Push the washer away from the wall so you can access the back of it.

 

#2. Unplug the washer, turn off the water and disconnect the hot & cold supply hoses.

 

#3. Beg, borrow or steal a 3/8" wrench or socket & ratchet OR a crescent wrench from someone and remove the 2 bolts (near where the hoses connect).

 

#4. Lift the lid of the washer like you did to take the photo and either have your partner hold it, or use a stick to hold it up.

 

#5.  Reach inside to the water inlet valve (circled in RED) and disconnect the hose from the valve.   If you cannot disconnect it at the valve, then using pliers, remove the clamp and carefully remove the hose at the tub (circled in BLUE).

 

#6.  Next, remove each the 6 wires from the inlet valve, BUT make note of what color wire is connected to which valve, <span style="text-decoration: underline;">this is very important</span>!    It may require a little effort, but <span style="text-decoration: underline;">grip the connector</span> and pull each wire away from the valve (while wiggling slightly) to slide the connector off.

 

#7. Remove the valve from the washer, take a photo and post it here.  I'm sure someone will be able to suggest how to proceed from here.   You can also try taking the valve to an appliance repair / parts store to see of they have a replacement.   If they do not have a 3 valve replacement (most likely) you can use a 2 valve replacement and connect the wires as John L (Combo52) outlined above.

 

<span style="text-decoration: underline;">TO RE-INSTALL THE VALVE</span> Reverse these steps outlined above.

 

I know you are not handy (or willing to try) but if you follow the steps above, YOU CAN DO IT!

Kevin

 

[this post was last edited: 3/30/2016-13:20]

 

[goatfarmer]

What you performed, did not clean the valve. Just a coincidence that it stopped leaking.

 

[floyde]

Thanks Kevin

You have given me the confidence!

 

[delaneymeegan]

 

 

Wow, a cream-puff repair on an almost 50 year old washer.  That probably doesn't mean much if you aren't handy in the first place, but having to simply change out a valve and replace a faucet washer...... ohhh,  if only the rest of life could be so easy.

 

To think of it, If this were my situation to deal with, it wouldn't even be considered a repair.  It would be almost thoughtlessly referred to as an "adjustment".  I guess I need to give myself more credit.  

 

[floyde]

Update

Well, Ive done several loads and the machine is working great. I don't know what might have been the issue.

I bought new stainless steel hoses for the washer and the plumber came this morning and installed new shutoff valves for hot and cold in the wall.

I'm not handy so I'm not going to try the repair. Because it is working.

With the new shut off valves I can easily turn the water off at the end of a laundry day. Since most time laundry is done all on the same day,

Any thoughts on why it did that for a few load and now is fine?

Thanks for all the help!

 

[delaneymeegan]

 

 

There may have been a piece of calcium or rust in the valve, keeping it from closing completely. 

 

I've seen that happen.  You should check the wire screens inside the valves.  When you removed the hoses from the back of the washer, you can see if the screens are dirty or intact.  If they are missing, you should replace them.  Those screens keep large particles from getting into the valve body.  

 

Video on how to check/clean or replace screens. 

http://https//youtu.be/PhdklAeHoTg

 

[delaneymeegan]

 

 

Another suggestion for you: if you are frequently leaving the house for several days or weeks at a time, I would turn off my water main, and gas when you leave.  Especially in an earthquake prone area.  It will give you piece of mind and may save your house from a flood or fire when you aren't there to do anything to protect your home.

 

I had a weekend home a while back, with a well pump.  I wired in a double throw switch for the double pole circuit that controlled the pump and had it installed right next to the door where it was easy to access.

If I had city water, I would have an easy to operate ball valve installed in an easy to access area, and use that to shut off and on the water.

 

It's also not a good idea to leave an electric water heater on when gone from the house.

 

[kenmoreguy64]

Floyde -

I have had this happen a couple times on my KM in the house, which is a 1980 large capacity model. It has the largest tub they made for belt-drives, and as such, when water drips in an otherwise empty basket, you hear a nice little musical clang sound that can be heard outside the laundry room if no radio or tv is on.

My solution was, like yours, to turn the water off until next use, then I forgot to turn it back off a few weeks later, and the next day or so realized no drips. Just as I was about to change the valve too. As Eric said above, I concluded that there must have been sediment interfering with the valve seals. Whatever it was, I haven't noticed it in several years, though as I type this now, I'll probably find a full tub when I get home...

I'm glad you got all new faucets, and that your machine is working well!

Gordon

 

[combo52]

Dripping-Flooding 1970-1 LKM washer

Hi Floyd, glad your machine is working now, I have found in life that it is amazing how often something mechanical starts working again on its own.

 

But that said it is fairly likely to have a reacurrence of this problem. Your washer has a 45 YO inlet valve, it likely needs new rubber seats or a complete inlet valve if it shows any additional signs of problems.

 

Delaney's suggestion of being sure that the metal inlet valve screens are in place is a good one. The video he posted about cleaning the valve screens does not apply to your washer. Your washer has metal SS inlet screens, and SS valve screes should NOT be removed for cleaning unless you have the proper tool to reinstall without bending or distorting them which makes them useless after they get even slightly bent.

 

John L.

 

[kenmoreguy64]

Floyde -

You asked a question a while back that I didn't see an answer to in a quick review.

The washer you have is indeed a 900 series. All Lady K top load washers were 90 or 900 series beginning in 1964, into the 1990s.

Is the valve still behaving?

Gordon

 

[floyde]

Thank you everyone

Yes, Gordon so far so good. As long as I can easily turn off the water I will follow this protocol at the end of wash day.