Trying to figure out capacity....

[geeve420]

Hello everyone! This is my first post and I hope someone can help me. I have a Hotpoint WLW3500bblwh and matching dryer and I am trying to figure out what the capacity is of the washer so we can get the same size or bigger. We are going to replace our set because the washer isn't spinning well enough to ring the clothes anymore. I have this set almost exactly (Link is Attached)

The only difference is where his says "Heavy Duty Extra Large Capacity" mine says that right after the Hotpoint name. Pic of his Attached as well (macboy91si)

Thanks

Geeve

So I am going to assume they may be a couple years apart, but are the same model.

Hotpoint Rim-Flo Photos

I meant to post this link a while back but just got the pics uploaded. Here's a link to the rim-flo set. They've turned out to be great machines. http://www.flickr.com/photos/36664317@N03/sets/72157623389313663/

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[westie2]

These were 18 pound rated.  The slower spin speed could mean a new belt is needed or the speed clutch is on slow.  These were good machines. 

 

[swillis]

Hotpoint tub Capacity

Extra Large was rated as a 2.8 cubic foot tub. Large capacity was rated as 2.5 in the GE/Hotpoint lineup. Models prior to the mid eighties were rated as large and standard capacity. The tub size did not change but classifying them did. The old standard became large capacity and large became extra large or super. Seemed like this all started when Kenmore started pushing the largest useable capacity back in the late eighties when they introduced the direct drive units.

 

[yogitunes]

As mentioned, I am guessing belt as well, or even the clutch is stuck in low speed.......I would check for these items as a simple inexpensive fix, before plunging out hundreds for a set that won't last as long, or wash and rinse as well....

can't hurt

 

[geeve420]

Thanks everyone! Great info here! Anyone happen to know how I can check the belt and clutch? also anyone happen to know how I can clean the lint out of the inside of the dryer, I am sure it needs it. You all are awesome!

Thanks

Geeve

 

[yogitunes]

well, outside of the normal safety issues, unplug unit......take back panel off, in the lower left you will see the motor/clutch/pump assembly......first lets check the belt for wear or damage........

next you want to make sure the clutch is operating smooth, keeping fingers cleared, you want to put the machine into spin, and your checking for any unusal sounds, clunking, rattling.....but mainly your checking for the solenoid, connected to the motor base plate, and theres a little arm that when engaged causes the slow speed(up position).......for high speed, make sure this little arm is not holding the little legs sticking out from under the clutch, it could be bent also....for the most part everything should be smooth........

I am working on a GE version right now.....with a chopped up belt, and causing the slipping.......but for fun, and just a little more kick in the agitation and higher spin speed, I am going to install a wider belt.....also this little arm on mine is bent out of the way...a simple fix

lets get your washer going first......and then move onto the dryer.....its just basic maintenance to clean out, and check the belt and idlers for wear.....real simple to dis-assemble....

let us know how you make out, and if you need further help.......

theres also the possibility of converting this to the true filter flo.....you'll be amazed at what lint it can remove from your wash versus the rim-flo

 

[geeve420]

Thanks again, I will give it a go and report back!

Geeve

 

[macboy91si]

Photo

LOL I though I recognized that machine! This machine is no more, she's a GE Spotscrubber now and yes I believe the 2.8 is correct. Hopefully you can repair the machines and keep them, they are pretty durable. Your slipping issue could be the best or the clutch. These machines employed a 2-speed clutch which can be fickle. As Yogi said, a few simple checks and you should have a solution. I too would be willing to bet the machine is running in slow speed, I've had fits out of that speed solenoid before with it getting stuck. You should be able to watch the machine agitate to see if it's going slow. If the machine is agitating slow and spinning slow evenly and not making any strange squeaking or grinding/clicking then I would suspect the clutch solenoid.

 

[earthling177]

The machine makes a very characteristic noise when in low speed. And that clutch is very fond of getting stuck on low speed when people change speeds without stopping the machine first. So, if that happens to be the problem, it will happen again unless you can convince people to stop the machine to change settings.

Good luck!

 

[westie2]

One thing when checking the speed is that they always start up in the slow speed then there is a click and the machine will go into high clutch.  We had the TOL with the regular agitator that came off and had the hand held smaller agitator.  Was HP version of the min basket.  Was a great machine until movers dropped it on the top when company was moving us.  Like others have said you can't get a newer one to match this one in cleaning and rinsing. 

 

[combo52]

GE WASHERS WITH TWO SPEED CLUTCHES

It is very rare for the clutch to get stuck in low speed, usually the reverse is the case when the shifter fork gets broken off and you get only hi speed. You can easily test this by starting the washer on low speed agitation, let it run for say two minutes then WITH the machine agitating switch to normal speed and see if it kicks in to a higher speed agitation within one minute. [ it does not hurt GE- HP washers to change the speed while they are running, GE would not have built a machine that could be so easily damaged, and anyone who wants to can come to our museum and flip the speed switch back and forth all day long on one of our several GE washers may do so if they like ]

 

Most likely a poor spin is caused by a very worn or loose belt, worn out clutch or a problem with suds-locking or other pump-out problems.

 

Martin putting a wider belt on your washer will not increase the spin speed as it will behave the same way on both pulleys. 

 

[geeve420]

Thanks everyone, I do not notice any noise when the spin cycle kicks in. When I get home from work I will tear it apart and see what I can find. Thanks again y'all. I will try to take some pics as well. We bought this set used about 9 years ago for about $150 and they have served us well. We had a baby about 7 months ago and it started acting up with additional loads we had to do.

Thanks

Geeve

 

[yogitunes]

Keep us posted on what you find.......

John....thanks for the info...I was thinking about the clutch issue with the wider belt, for agitation the single speed clutch may prove to show a difference, but thats about it.......Now on the Whirlpool, with the belt direct to agitation pulley, there is improvement, not as much as I wanted, but still a nice kick up on speed...

 

[macboy91si]

Low Speed

Actually come to think of it, I ended up having to take the selection switch off and clean it... Not suggesting that may be your issue, but that's what happened to be. My previous motor/clutch was missing the finger that engages low so it only had high speed. After I replaced the motor during the Spotscrubber conversion, I noticed the machine had only low speed, after much tinkering with the speed solenoid I found out that the issue was electrical and it was the push-button bank for the speeds that was gummy. The belt sounds like a reasonable and Combo52 (John) knows his stuff. Personally I had always heard that changing speeds while running will break the speed changer fingers but I've done this several times and aside from a few clicks, nothing bad so far. My machine needs a new belt and I need to obtain a spare transmission at some point.

 

Good luck, just tak it one step at a time, start with smallest things and work up, belt would be pretty easy to check.

 

-Tim

 

[bajaespuma]

Legal fraud.

The difference between GE/Hotpoint "Extra-large capacity" and "Large Capacity" (what a joke) amounts to barely three extra inches of water within the same diameter tub. I've actually weighed what I considered to be the maximum amount of dry laundry that could/should go into these tubs and Consumer Reports is sadly very correct when it has stated through the years that most of these old top-loaders could only handle 8 lbs. of normal fabrics. The extra room in the big GE's might give you enough room to handle 10 lbs. of fabrics. If you overload on a GE, unlike on a Maytag, the machine will still go on its merry way through all the agitation and spin, but you won't get any rollover (especially if there's a straight-vane activator in there) and performance will suffer. I think the most capacious top-loaders were always the big Whirlpools and the 1-18's.

 

By comparison, sorry y'all, my LG front loader can handle 20 lbs. of laundry easily.