Trying to identify type of washing machine

[jjr]

Hello Everyone,

I have an old Montgomery Ward, Signature washing machine (Signature 20 Flex-load, "Heavy Duty") model# LNC 6735 A00, and I am trying to get positive identification of the real manufacturer. I suspect it may be Norge, but I can not nail it down. It is leaking from under the tub (inner basket, outer tub), above the tranmission, and I am looking for disassembly instructions, and correct repair proceedure and parts. Can anyone help, or direct me to a site with this information? I've been around and around the web searching. I'd really like to see an exploded view of these parts.

ps. I already have the top up, the front panel off, the splash collar out, the plastic agitator out, and the inner basket out. Underneath, the water is dripping out of a slot in a molded aluminum hub through which the transmission drives the spindle. I suspect the water is leaking past a seal between where the outer tub attaches (with bolts) to the top of the transmission by means of this hub, but it isn't obvious to me how these parts come apart, and whether I need to remove the agitator spindle before I can get the tub out (if I need to get the tub out), so that I can see what the problem may be to figure out what parts may be needed. I'm at a point where I do not feel comfortable with just exploratory disassembly. I'd like to know more before I take it apart, further. Also, it is not obvious to me how the spindle disassembles, if necessary.

By slowly adding water to the tub, without the basket in it, until the leaking started, gave me the likely source. The water level is at the point at the bottom of the spindle where it just comes throught the tub. When I get my finger in there, I'm pretty sure I feel the top lip of a rubber seal.

Thank you for your knowledge and your time.
JJR

 

[Unimatic1140]

Yes the machine is made by Norge.  Its actually a great washer and worth the time to restore it.  This Norge design originated in 1964 and was made through the 80s.

 

I have a 1964 model that had the exact same leaking issues, while the design of my machine is slightly different than yours I believe most of the parts to the seal are very similar.  Here is a thread showing what I did to fix it.  I had to replace both the seal and the spin hub bearing...

Taking apart a 1964 Montgomery Wards/Norge Plus-Capacity Washer

Some of you guys might remember just over a year ago Fred found this delicious MW washer on craigslist, here is the original post. The machine had a few problems at first, but I was able to fix them and get it running rather fast. I got about 25 to 30 washings out of the machine before a leaky...

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[combo52]

NORGE BUILT WASHER

This is a Norge built washer, they were good performers but not real durable and very difficult to do major repairs on. As a seasoned repairman we repaired several of the main seal and tub bearings in these years ago and concluded it did not make economic sence as in most cases the machine won't last much longer after the repair. However there may be many good reasons to attempt this repair, only you can decide. But if you just need a washer and want an older classic top loading washer you would be better off with a WP KM or GE or Hotpoint washer, older Maytags are also good durable choices but if it is the great washing performance and capacity that you liked about the Wards washer you may be pretty disappointed with a Maytag. Our web-master Robert did a tear-down and rebuild on a similar machine last year you can search it out with the super searcherlater and get a better idea of whats involved to fix this Good Luck.

 

[jjr]

Thank you Unimatic1140 (Robert) and combo52 (John) for your quick responses, and helpful answers and advice.

I could not ask for a better parts breakdown and actual step by step repair proceedure.
Can you recommend a dependable part source for the seal and bearing if I cannot locate them locally? If I find the parts, and can break loose the bolts, I can do the repair....I just have to find the time.

A question, my agitator spindle top is designed differently. There is a stud/nut combo down the center at the top. I can remove that stud, but the 4 inch splined agitator block does not want to come off the shaft. There was an allen screw as a set screw in the side, that I have removed.
Is there something else holding it on or should I use a torch and start tapping?
With the torch, do I need to get it really hot, or do I have to careful not to burn a seal or something?
Can I get a little aggressive with it without hurting the transmission?
Maybe a gear puller could help?
Once the splined drive is off, does the sleeve around the center drive shalf just slide up or is that threaded onto the bottom with the spin tube hub and the outer tub support? It's the only step not really covered the great pictorial.
If it is threaded on, can a pipe wrench be safely used at the bottom to get it off?

You have been great.
Thank You!
JJR

 

[combo52]

REMOVING THE AGITATOR DRIVE BLOCK

Try using a propane torch it doesn't have to get real hot just smoking a little and try tapping it off.