Unimatic fill valve issues

[gregm]

Can these still be "rebuilt" ? Can a or both solenoids be replaced with "newer/conventional" ones ? Do they have to be certain wattages or amps ??? The original one in this WO-65-2 would only bring in hot period AND whether the machine was on or off unless you closed the valve it would bring in hot water. So I took the fill valve off another like machine in the hopes that it would work and I could rebuild the original. Well this one barely brings in cold but seems to bring in hot fine and turns off and on fine when the machine calls for water; BUT, like I said the hot flows fine on the "WARM" setting but I get NOTHING (no water at all) on the "HOT" setting. I have all the wires correct per the new timer and wiring diagram. (I highly recommend REECO in FL by the way) I also double checked the green and white to the cold solenoid and the orange or red and other white to the lower hot solenoid. I think if I just clean this one it will work but I think the "hot" solenoid is "fried". Feedback welcome and GREATLY appreciated

 

[gyrafoam]

I thought I would use a universal valve when rebuilding my WV-65, sure that the original brass valve must be as dead as the rest of the machine was-------wrong! It would only let in Hot water.
I traced and cursed all the electrical as I was sure there must be some kind of short. Couldn't find a thing wrong.

Put the original brass valve back on---first time I tried it---worked perfectly.
Go 'figya.

Of course with these old Frigidaires don't be
surprised if you set it for a Warm water setting and get a Left Turn Signal instead.
GM. Gotta lov'em.

 

[Unimatic1140]

Greg first of all are you using the original WI-57 water valve? The 1957 Imperial valve was very different from any other valve before or after and the wiring is specific to it. If you are using any other valve you are going to have to adjust how it is wired.

To test any water valve take an electrical cord and connect it to the solenoid and plug in the test cord and see if it works. Be sure to remove the machine wires from the solenoid valve first.

 

[gregm]

robert .........

hi robert, the '57 is a separate issue and yes, I understand the dynamics that go along with that one in particular which is still unresolved. I will talk about and deal with that one later. My posting is again about the WO-65-2 and/or 1953 unimatic.

 

[Unimatic1140]

Oh sorry Greg, I have a terrible cold and I'm kind of spaced out. With the WO-65 you can change the valve to a modern valve, but it will deliver hot or cold wash, with a cold rinse.

The problem with those early brass valves is the large rubber seats are hard to find. You can try taking it apart and giving it a good cleaning. Since you have two of them can you take the best parts of both and make one good valve?

 

[gregm]

thanks Robert

ok, DER, that is a great idea .......... "feeling pretty stupid now" ......... what a concept .......... thank you (humbly)but let me ask this, the current solenoids appear to be "wrapped" in some sort of material ??? I assume when I take the fill valve apart that the solenoids will come off individually ? and I could take one solenoid and use on the other ? Are the "rubber seats" on these the SAME SIZE as the fill valve on the '57 ? if so I could use the one or more of the good ones to rebuild that original valve which I believe they only made just one year. Thank you again and hope you get over your cold soon