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toggleswitch2

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May 23, 2008
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Had to have a new clutch put into my 1998 Saturn SL2.

How many hours of labor charge are customary /expected?

I have a feeling I should have bought a BIG jar of Vaseline from the neighboring drug store- because it hurt BIG TIME!
 
Usually the cost is around $800-1000, depending on the vehicle. I would buy all of the parts (quality parts!!) and take it to them. Shops usually charge on the high side for parts to increase their profit margin.

While you're having the clutch replaced, REPLACE THE REAR MAIN OIL SEAL!! When this goes bad, and it will before the next clutch replacement, you gotta fork out some big $$ for labor. Cost of the seal is usually $20 or less and takes only 5 minutes to remove and replace once the clutch components are removed, but you'll be stuck with the labor of pulling the trans and removing and replacing the clutch components (because they'll be covered in oil)........again.
 
Well I guess I don't feel so bad about the $1300 I was quoted to rebuild my Neon automatic tranny a few years ago. I put it off; now the car is at the local community college for same repair. The parts cost me about $250, labor is free. But it's been there since January, with no sign of success. Oh well, I guess eventually they'll figure it out ;-). If necessary I'll have the car towed to a tranny shop and a rebuilt one popped in. But I have no real need for the vehicle so I'm in no hurry. I look at it as free parking ;-).

I've replaced the clutch on a few manual transmissions, and it's been relatively easy. But these were longitudinal rear wheel drive models, much easier to work on than a modern compact front wheel drive setup.
 
Bearings.

My Saab's clutch is in good shape right now (thank goodness) but there is a slowly failing bearing. It screeches sometimes when I release the clutch. In order to replace the bearing, the clutch must be removed. Fortunately, my mechanic says it isn't a big deal so I should wait until I replace the clutch to replace the bearing.

Replace your bearings!
Best of luck,
Dave
 
Thanks guys. I feel better now. (No sarcasm at all!)

They put in better quality bearings than came with the clutch, they ground the flywheel (said to prevent burning out a new clutch) as well as replaced an oil seal.

I was expecting a bill of about $600 to $$700 and nearly fell over when it was over $1,200.

They've aso replaced everthing that could be leaking oil, but I'm geeting tired of $50 steam-cleanings and "degunk-ings". Is this step necessary? And if so how often?

As we all know oil-based products eat rubber, and that ain't good.
 
1-They push and suggest it. I want to know if I can say "NO" and not suffer consequences. (Degrading rubber belts and hoses, a fire etc).

2- Around the valve cover seal.
 
Why not just buy a can of engine degreaser...

..give it a spray and (covering the vital electrics) hose it off if it is that bad.

I just had a head gasket replaced on the morris (in someones home garage) and then drove it back to Canberra...thats nearly 550miles...and there was no gunk to remove...
 
Wow. I never realized there was that much of a difference in price between a FWD and RWD car. I had a clutch done last year in my 96 Z3 roadster and paid $700ish, including a new rear main seal and throw out bearing.
 
Depends on the car . . .

Some front wheel drive cars can be very easy to change clutches on, like the old Saab 99 and 900 cars. Others are more difficult. Some rear drive cars are difficult too - for many years Jaguar was famous for requiring engine removal to do a clutch job, and their six cylinder engines were heavier than most American V8s.

I'd be careful about too many steam cleanings on a modern car. If the technician isn't careful or doesn't know the particular model well he can easily put too much steam into areas with critical electrical connections. Wet connections promote corrosion - this is why manufacturers protect them with little rubber booties. When the car gets older the booties can degrade and in any event they're not intended to take strong blasts of steam. Just one poor connection on a computer controlled car can cause all sorts of hard to diagnose issues ranging from check engine lights to stalling, so it pays to be careful.

Sudsmaster: I'd say $1300 to rebuild an automatic tranny is a gift! About ten years ago the automatic in my mother's Eagle bit the dust just after the seven year warranty expired, even with less than 70,000 miles. I think she ended out paying around $2500 for a rebuild; the dealer wanted $5000 for a factory rebuild, not including installation. VW gets about the same today for a rebuilt automatic, again not including installation. BTW I thought of you yesteday when I saw a really lovely black late '40s Dodge business coupe in Santa Monica. It was parked at a meter, appropriately in a business area, so it must be in at least limited use.
 
Personally, if someone bought their own parts, and then wanted me to install them, I would not do the job. If something goes wrong with the part, then they think it's something I did. I'm betting a warranty on a part does not include labor, and I'm also betting they would want the labor done over for free.
 
Some rubber is oil resistant. Like the rubber used in o-rings and gaskets inside engines.

But the old timers swear by the old rope based rear main crank seal. I rebuilt my '50 plymouth motor twice. The second time I noticed the 1st rebuild with the rubber crank seal was leaking. So I put in a rope seal the second time around, and it leaks a lot less. Apparently the rubber just can't take the heat and/or pressure.

The $1300 price I was quoted for the Neon tranny was at an independent tranny shop, which I've used before for my Valiant torqueflight. So I know they do fairly good work. Plus they are local to me now. But it was a few years ago, the current price might be more. My problem is that if it's much more than that, it's more than the car is worth, lol. Still, it's fun to drive when the tranny and antilock brakes are working right, and the engine isn't puking oil out the rear of the head.

I've more or less made a decision not to buy any more modern cars. I'll get an older one that I can work on myself... no smog... Who cares if it won't go 100 mph?
 
Thats nuttin for a saturn! I think the sl2's have oil leaks as it is.. Just dont recall off hand...
Saturn dealers are great places, but saturns in there own right are expensive at times...
Try outting a post up at www.batauto.com and see what they think
 
The $1300 for a rebuild transmission is cheap, in February I had to get a new transmission in a 2001 DeVille with only 76,000 miles on it. I went to an independent transmission garage and I paid $3200 for a rebuild,If I went for a factory transmission it would have been over 5000 which is around what the car is worth.This is the second newer GM car that has cost me a lot, my 2002 Impala I had for two years blew the lower intake gasket 4 times and the head gasket twice,and the intake gasket cost about $450 each time. Only things from GM that I have had good luck with was Buick. I will from now probably stick with Ford and lincoln-Mercury products as both the crown Vic I had and now the Town Car have been absolutley trouble free.
 
Toggles

My partner is a service manager for a Toyota dealership (we drive Hondas...LOL) and he says that the average for his shop is 12 hours of labor to do a clutch. The reason for that is because on a Toyota, the sub frame has to be removed to do the clutch and once the job is done, it requires a four wheel alignment. He says you came out well on your repair.

As far as your degunking question, excessive steam cleaning is unnecessary(according to my sources). It is a procedure that is pure profit to the dealer/mechanic. The question to ask is why is this being suggested so frequently. Are the valve covers leaking causing oil build up? If so, why isn't their recommendation to repair the source of the problem? Have you had the valve cover gasket resealed or replaced? I am being told that the reason for the hood on a car is to keep water out of the engine compartment for reasons previously stated on this thread. Hope this helps.

Robb :-)
 
$651.29

For a 1997 C280. This will be for a service for my 5 speed electronic automatic transmission. First year in 1997 for a sealed transmission. There is no dipstick to check the fluid. Mercedes thought there would be no need, however they later changed that to a service around 60K or so. Knock on wood the tranny shifts just fine now, but better to service than replace it. The big part of that cost is the fluid at $221.94! They will also be resealing the electrical connector and replacing a shift linkage bushing.
 
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