Very Sad Day for the 56 Mobile Maid

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Ah man...

You'll just have to hold onto this, it's too beautiful to give up. I'm sorry I don't have any ideas for you. I'm in the same situation with my Twin Tub motor. No one seems to be able to help. I bring it to motor shops and they tell me they can't take it apart, I bring it to appliance parts shops, and they say they have nothing like it.

Good luck to you!

Guy
 
You've got my interest. I like a challenge

The photo shows a GE motor, assembled with 4 bolts.
It is almost exactly the same structure as the maytag 2 speed reversable 1/3 horse from my '72 maytag.

Might I ask what is faulty that you need to disassemble the motor? Bearings or start sw or stator windings?

Is the problem that the motor won't dismount from the machine?
Or the armature is stuck in the pump?

The photo shows a motor with a cast end housing, a stamped sheet steel case, and 4 bolts holding it together. So under usual circumstances one ought to be able to disassemble such rather quickly, dispite needing to leave the upper end attached to the pump.

eh?
 
Lets put this another way

Assuming it is at Blanchard Elec.

Do you want to disassemble it yourself?
Perhaps they can fix the particular piece that's broken if you disassemble it for them. Are you feeling that adventurous?

------------------
I came home from work last fall and found our maytag A606 full of diapers, dirty wash water. The motor wouldn't spin up to run the washer.

So I removed the motor, took it to the work bench.
I loosened the 4 bolts that held it together
Removed the end housing (some tapping was needed here)
Then removed the armature
The removed the shaft side end housing and carefully tilted it over from the case stator.
There I could see the place where the mag wire had arched /sparked. I spliced the mag wire and reinsulted it, then put the housing armatures back together.
Result - I didn't have to bucket out the dirty diaper water, I got the maytag going again.

------------

There's only 5 parts to the motor
armature
stator case assy
shaft end housing
butt end housing
start switch.

so
If you can get the motor back, and want to work on it....
Then take lots of pics
Loosen the 4 bolts
If needed tap end housing loose from case with screwdriver.
gentle, be gentle the armature may drop out at this point, but it may be held at the other end by the start switch...
post pics.
Certainly the armature drops out with the shaft end housing and the start switch - from the case.
2 or 4 mag/leadwires stretch from the stator case assy to the start switch. photos photos labels...cut/desolder these if needed to get it completely apart.

You'll have an end housing, a case, and a shaft end housing with a start sw and armature in it.

Fix problem. case windings, bearings, start sw
 
Nice pictures, they tell the story

1) For whatever reason you need to remove the armature from the case end. yes?

That's important, since if the problem were the start switch and it can be removed from the side....
Or the stator winding......
Then you leave the armature installed in the end plate, stuck onto the pump shaft.

Lets assume you can't fix the motor problem with the armature installed... The pump shaft looks to be made from a soft material like brass or copper. So worst case you need a piece of brass plate and tubing to create a new T shaft. Wouldn't it be nice if that tubing were normal copper pipe....?

I imagine a puller like this
-a plate with 4 legs straddling the upper housing.
-In the midddle of the plate is a hole
-Thru that goes a threaded rod.
-cross plate and bolts attache end of rod to pump
-nut and washer attach rod to plate.
-Tighten nut to remove pump "T" shaft from motor.

Alternately, you drill and tap a large thread thru the T top, (perhaps reinforced with a helicoil)then screw a bolt in, jamming against the armature shaft, and so pull the T shaft loose from the armature shaft. No force applied to the armature body, motor end plate and T shaft plate ends this way. You'll have to seal the hole later via soldering a plug on.

Note, brass/copper expands faster than steel, so heating "T" to 300 or350F may greatly ease it's removal.

I'd heat the T shaft up with a micro torch, not a lot tho', and try to start wiggling it a bit while a pulling load of 100-200 lbs is on it.

That may be all that's needed, or...it may be corroded on, and need to be replaced.

It looks to be a LOT easier to fabricate a new T shaft than a pump housing.
 
Thanks Bill

Blanchard said they tried "soaking" the motor in oil. They will be shipping it back to me on Monday. Once I get the motor back, then we'll start "brainstorming". I just wish there was another motor and pump out there. The motor runs fine. It's the seal that needs to be replaced under the drain impeller.
 
Hold on to it.

Don't get your hopes up too high, but I may have found, MAY HAVE found, a source for GE Pull-out parts. Keep yer fingers crossed. There's an apartment building in New Haven that was built in 1961 where all the large apartments were furnished with GE pull-outs. The superindendant has given me the name of the guy in charge of maintenance, but, as usual, I have had trouble contacting him and won't be a bit surprised when he tells me that they've all be taken to the dump.
 
Is the pump impeller fastened to the T shaft? You know, the shaft itself looks simple, and I bet a machine shop could make a new one, if a good drawing existed, or even using the existing one as a pattern. A good machinist is a great thing. A for heating - I wonder if a 'soaking' in an oven would do the trick? In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if that's how GE made it in the first place. Let everything heat soak at 300 for a while, it might just slide right off easily. To reattach, just heat the brass, and it'll slide on even easier. I'd be careful with a torch that you don't melt things, and apply the heat slowly...
 
If worst comes to worst...

I have a '59 GE 'Princess' pull-out that is unusable because the cabinet is damaged and the cover is missing... Now, unless a bunch of them turn up in, Oh, I don't know, Connecticut, I was wondering if you might be interested in the motor from mine. I am keeping my eyes on this thread in case anything does turn up, but if not, I may be able to help you out. I have a '58 Mobile Maid and I think they are definitely a machine worth saving!!
 
Hopefully your motor can be repaired - even better if that lead on the apartment building with pull-outs being replaced comes up with something! Please do let me know how things go, though. Glad to be of help!
 
Sorry I didn't see your post sooner, Eddie! I will test the motor on the Princess this coming weekend and if it's still good (which I am expecting it to be) I'll let you know.
Please email me directly if you have any questions - I keep odd hours but my email always seems to find me!!
 

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