Vintage Bathroom Light Fixture -- How Do I Install It?

[rp2813]

Our small half bath was remodeled in 1960.  The only things that have changed are linoleum and a small vanity sink replaced a small wall-hung sink.  I got a free tiny sink I intend to install, and just scored a period-appropriate two-bulb bathroom light to replace the very basic single bulb fixture that could possibly pre-date the remodel (I found an art deco shade for it decades ago).  This bathroom sorely needs more light, but my fixture choices are limited as there is very little clearance between the box and the medicine cabinet below it (see pix).

 

The problem I'm having is that I see no way to mount this new fixture to the box.  There's just a small hole in the center of the canopy.   I haven't found a mounting bar or plate that has such a small hole in the middle.  Does anybody know what's missing?  

 

Bathroom lamps in this style are still easy to find new at any hardware store (used widely by landlords in particular), but I don't know if I can buy a brand new fixture without a shade (no luck on line).  I doubt it would be chrome, or have the ridges at 12 (not visible), 3, 6, and 9 to keep the glass shade from rotating as seen in the first picture.

 

Any suggestions or leads would be appreciated.  I won't bother to strip paint and polish the chrome unless I can come up with a mounting solution.

 

 

 

[duke]

Lowe's has exactly what you need in the ceiling fan parts section, 3 to 5 bucks.I can get you the exact part number tomorrow.

 

[panthera]

Oh, this is no problem

As Duke mentioned, Lowe's can help you with this. As can the Homo Depot. Or Menards. The cross shaped hole in the base into which those double sockets fit is used today in many inexpensive fixtures.

May I make a suggestion?

Take that beautiful shade in and find a modern fixture on which it fits. It won't be expensive and will add a ground line. If you can't ground it, I strongly urge you to put it on a GFCI.

 

In any case, I love the shade.

 

 

[duke]

Gfci must have a true neutral and ground.- A remodel in 1960??? Ground??

It's high on the wall so it won't drop in the bath tub.

 

[rp2813]

Yeah, the shade is unlike any of this type that I've seen.   It has a textured surface and reflects ambient light in various ways.  Sometimes the surface looks sparkly.  I can't wait to see how it looks when lit.

 

I haven't felt like dealing with the wet weather to investigate options at OSH or the big boxes, but if they have something in stock that will work, I'll be in business.   Thanks Duke for checking.  I had no luck on line.  And yeah, no ground, and there's no bathtub or shower!

 

The fixture was offered for free by a neighbor on the Next Door site, and when I saw the unusual scalloped pattern on the shade and realized it would clear the medicine cabinet, I went over yesterday and grabbed it.

 

 

 

[duke]

Cool shade, Don't think that base is chrome though.

 

[rp2813]

I'm pretty sure it's chrome, but it's been through decades of moisture.  I'm not sure if I could get it looking decent, but very little of it would be visible anyway.  If I can find something new that will work, I'll go that route and spare myself the elbow grease.

 

[duke]

That base, fixture is still available but it's part of a kit and cheaply made. Your shade is the rare bird.I'd use some spray stripper ,followed by some 100 grit sanding ,then some 400 grit .I would finish with a pastel spray color. Bright white CFL 60 watt bulbs to finish. IMHO

 

[rp2813]

But how does the base mount to the box?  That's where I'm stumped by the tiny hole in the center. 

 

[duke]

There are 2 kits ,1 has the bracket to box,then 3 sizes of barrel bolts and nuts (like your shade mounts to)- The other you can adapt any threaded shaft with decorative nut to.Sure wish you could kill the breaker,temporarily remove fixture, take a picture of the wall mounting box and post it.I'll send you what you need as I have spare hardware.

 

[travis]

Ralph,

 

There are many versions of the cross bar.  Each has a different size hole in the center.  They make threaded bushings that screw into a larger hole that has a smaller threaded hole in the center.

 

I would get one of those bars, then a bushing, a piece of threaded rod and a decorative nut.  I have lots of old fixtures in use.  They all have required something different to use them.  None are grounded. :-(

 

[rp2813]

Not a problem Duke, and thanks for the offer.  I have a couple of electrical parts boxes full of stuff, but no mounting bars or plates that will work.  The fixture was free and whatever I need can't cost much, so once I know what that is, I'll buzz over to Lowes or wherever and get it.

 

I figured there must be a mounting bar with threaded hole in the center where I can install a screw that will protrude just far enough through the base to tighten a decorative ball (nut) that will secure it, although that seems kind of flimsy to me.   If I go with a new base, I presume it will use a barrel bolt mount, which isn't possible with the current base.

 

I can remove the current fixture and show the box, but not until tomorrow now that it's dark.

 

[duke]

Remember ,You can use a standard kit if you have a battery drill and a step drill bit.The step bit will allow you to SLOWLY enlarge the center hole of the fixture base.Google step drill bit ,Everybody needs one.

 

[panthera]

GFCIs

Don't need an input ground to function properly, that's why Code permits them for use in two-wire circuits as in old houses. Duke is right about the nuisance tripping on neutral which may or may not occur, but this is still much, much safer than a grounded outlet as it will cut the current at 5mA (+ or - 1mA), which won't kill you.

Here's the easy text of the code:

Sec. 210-7(d)(3) permits any of the following installations when replacing a 2-wire ungrounded receptacle:

(a) Replace it with another 2-wire receptacle;

(b) Replace it with a GFCI-type receptacle and mark the receptacle with the words “No Equipment Ground;” or

(c) Replace it with a grounding-type receptacle protected by a GFCI device (circuit breaker or receptacle). Since the grounding terminals for the receptacles are not grounded, you must mark the receptacles with the words “GFCI Protected” and “No Equipment Ground”

 

This is definitely a worthwhile project, looking forward to the results.

 

[rp2813]

I've thought about drilling out the center hole to make it large enough for a barrel mount.  I may end up doing that if nothing new measures up.  I have a collection of mounting bars for use with a barrel mount arrangement.  I have a drill press.  Could I not get away with gradually increasing the diameter, or should I just get myself a step bit?

 

So what about bulbs?  There's a dimmer switch to be considered, so incandescent would be my first choice.  I have a couple of 60-watt soft pink bulbs, or what about a couple of frosted tubular types -- if they're available in 60-watt form?

 

[duke]

Panthera,
No disrespect but are we talking about a fixture or a multi use receptacle?

 

[rp2813]

Yeah, I've never seen a GFI for a hard-wired ceiling or wall light fixture.  I wouldn't even know how one of those worked.

 

[panthera]

Duke,

Oh, no problem - it's perfectly normal to run a lamp through a circuit protected by either a GFCI circuit breaker ( every modern bathroom in Germany) or through a 'blind' GFCI or even through the 'load' of a receptacle GFCI.

I recently saw a GFCI combo wall switch/single outlet just for North American bathrooms or kitchens. Of course, it's a bit more work but I am just downright paranoid when it comes to wet areas and what we call Kriechstrom in German - 'leak current'.

 

 

[rp2813]

I've been googling images.  No mounting bars or plates with small diameter center holes have shown themselves, but I found this modern base that I presume is a barrel mount.  I could live with it.