Vintage Frigidaire Refrigerator

[rp2813]

This fridge has been on CL for a while.  The asking price was just lowered and "OBO" was added, so now I'm tempted to go after it.  I think I can get it cleaned up and presentable with some elbow grease and appliance touch-up like I did with my GE Combo and Penncrest freezer.

 

I'm looking for information on the type of compressor this one uses and whether I can expect it to remain operational for another ten years or more (assuming it's in proper working order as the ad claims).

 

Any shared knowledge will be appreciated.

 

Also, what's up with the cold control knob?  It looks new.

 

 

 

 

[turquoisedude]

That's a pretty old one, Ralph. It may still use sulfur dioxide in cooling system - it can be dangerous if the system springs a leak! Did the seller happen to have a picture of the model number plate?

 

[rp2813]

No model number shots.  I can ask him, though.  He has already responded and I may go have a look this weekend.

 

That's the kind of information I was hoping to get here, so thanks for posting, Paul!

 

[goatfarmer]

I have one close to that. Let me see if I can get a pic and a model number.

 

[goatfarmer]

Here's mine

Maybe a year or 2 newer.  It works, in fact it works too good! The control is bad, it won't shut off. Looks like the ol' reliable Meter Mizer compressor. Tag says Dichlorotetraflueorethane (Freon). I also see mine is hinged opposite of that one. My dad always told me it was a 1935 model, it may be.

 

[rp2813]

Thanks Kenny! 

 

Both boxes have a lot of similarities, and I hope that applies to the Meter Miser!

 

As long as the door gaskets make a decent seal, this Frigidaire should cost a lot less to run than the '57 Combination it would be replacing.

 

[norgeway]

Frigidaire

Was the FIRST to use Freon, Much earlier than GE or Kelvinator, I think 1933 or 34.

 

[rp2813]

Thanks Hans.

 

I guess this fridge is older than I thought, which is fine as long as it runs like it should.  I like that it has an actual pull handle and not a push button.  I don't know which of those styles came first, though.

 

[goatfarmer]

sooo

did ya get it?

 

[rp2813]

Priorities Changed

Well, my buddy came over on Thursday to help me sort through some health care billing and benefit stuff and he just left this morning, so not a whole lot got done over the past few days besides me and him . . .

 

I'd have to deal with terrible traffic on the Nasty Nimitz if I tried to get the fridge on a weeknight, so I've told the seller that if it's still available by next weekend, I'll come up for it then.  It's been sitting on CL for a while due to the high price.  I'm hoping the reduced (but still lofty) price/OBO doesn't make it disappear before this week is over.  I'll be offering $50 less than asking, and only if it cools properly.  It will require a lot of elbow grease to make it presentable, and maybe a new gasket to make its job easier.

 

I think this fridge is from 1938 at the earliest.  Too bad it doesn't have the Danger Zone indicator.

 

[rp2813]

It's Home . . .

. . . But it's a bigger project than I needed.   Looks to be a 1940 model.

 

It's going to need paint.  The finish is like chalk.  A bad old re-paint.  I attempted to cut through it with some car cleaner/wax, which worked wonders on the GE Combo and the Penncrest freezer, but that only made it look worse.  The original paint seems to have yellowed. 

 

The door needs a new gasket.  What's on there now isn't the right type and is oversized (see pictures).  This makes it difficult to close and latch the door.  Kenny, could you take a picture of the door gasket on your fridge?  I need to find out what the original looked like and how it was placed so I can try to match it.

 

Of the most concern is the fact that the evaporator isn't frosting evenly.  Frost is mostly confined to the rear portion of the evaporator and on related tubing in that area.  There is also an oily build-up on the three electrical connection points on the compressor.  IIRC, the irregular frosting was described as not a good thing in one of David's threads a while back, but I don't remember how he corrected it.

 

 

[goatfarmer]

I think mine looks similar, someone put foam tape on the box itself to help seal. I'll get a picture.

 

[rp2813]

Thanks Kenny.

 

I was thinking about the gasket last night and realized that it's probably fashioned from a bike tire inner tube.  All I can say is, that was resourceful, but not practical even if it does make a good seal.  I want the door to close easily.

 

Meanwhile, the fridge cooled down nicely overnight and the frost is now evenly covering the evaporator.  The cup of water I placed inside registers around 36 degrees with the cold control set in the middle of its range.  That's a big deal.  I was concerned that I had bought myself yet another mechanical problem that I couldn't resolve, not that the oily residue on the compressor isn't still a concern.

 

I'm looking forward to your picture to get an idea of placement for a new gasket.

 

[turbokinetic]

Early hermetic unit!

Hey, this is an early R114 unit. It has the first-generation Meter-Miser compressor. This is pretty well as reliable as any. It does have the relatively fragile terminal seals that the early non-GE made hermetics suffered with. Just be careful not to bump or disturb the terminals on the bottom of the compressor and it should be fine!

On the off-chance that the terminals begin leaking, the compressor can be repaired although it is a very intricate process.

Sincerely,
David

 

[rp2813]

Gasket Options

David, thanks for your input.  I'm feeling much better about this little fridge today than I was last night.

 

I'm thinking this is the best option for a new gasket (I couldn't lift a picture from the web site, so see link).

https://www.coolergaskets.com/hobart-gasket-24-x-29-1-2/

 

[goatfarmer]

Gasket

Looks like a flat piece of rubber. Someone put foam tape around it to help seal.

 

[rp2813]

Verrrrry interesting Kenny.  Thanks for posting.

 

It appears that maybe the gasket was an integral part of the larger well-crazed rubber that's held by screws.  Fat chance of finding NOS of that.  That remaining rubber is in somewhat better condition on my box.  I liked my '39 Westinghouse better in this regard.  They used enameled metal instead of rubber for those trim pieces.

 

Yesterday I ripped off all of the replacement gasket material that was keeping the door from latching except when pushed hard to close.  I've decided to try plain old self-adhesive weatherstripping for windows, which resembles the "bubble" type of refrigerator gasket design.  It's cheaper, and since real deal gaskets are manufactured under the assumption they'll be attached with screws, I'd have to glue those into place anyway.

 

At least the pictures you posted provide an indication on where to place the gaskets.  I'll report in once I've given the weatherstripping a try.

 

[goatfarmer]

Good luck!

 

[rp2813]

Cold Control Question

After a few tries with different sizes, the "extra large" rubber window weatherstripping is providing a decent seal.  It's smashed more at the top left corner (when facing the fridge), and just barely seals at bottom left.  I don't see any way to adjust the door hinges, but I think the seal will be adequate.  I'm leaving the door closed so the gaskets can conform.

 

I turned the fridge on again today after installing the weatherstripping.  I had the cold control set to "4."  The "7" position is coldest.  Cabinet temp got down to the low 30s on the "4" setting, so I bumped it down to "3", but the compresor didn't cut out.  Then I discovered by accident that the setting knob on the cold control could be pushed in.  It seems that when pushed in, the cold control can't go lower than "A" or "B", which are the warmest settings.  Is this some sort of defrost or vacation mechanism?  It seems the only way to adjust to a normal temperature range or completely off is to have the control knob in the pulled out position.

 

I did get a click when I turned the knob lower than "3" so at least the thermostat seems to be working.

 

Does anyone have information on the purpose of this push/pull action on the cold control knob?