Vintage gravity toaster

[quebecois]

My plan is to fix both, the GE for my daughter who will need it in her first apartment and the Sunbeam to please my friend who asked for it.

 

[turquoisedude]

GE toaster service info

Bon, I wasn't able to scan them but I took pictures of the GE service guide for the T31 series toaster.  It's the "cool down" cycle that requires adjustment - it's not difficult but it can be time-consuming. 

Bonne chance!

 

[appliguy]

Answer to reply #22

I got a Sunbeam T35 Radiant Control Toaster for $3 two years ago because it did not work at all. All I had to do to fix it was take a butter knife and slightly turn the screw that is just inside the crumb door in the middle of the toaster. I have a friend that buys and sells these toasters and he has found that 95% of the time that will fix the problem you have with your Sunbeam Radiant Control Toaster! PATRICK COFFEY

 

[quebecois]

Thanks Paul, I had a look at the instructions and the way I understand them, it should be the Heat-up cycle that needs adjustment, beacause the toasts are too drak (actually the toasts burn if the heat-up cycle is not stopped manually).

I may be wrong though, my English isn't that good. But first I have to glue the plastic case.

 

[turquoisedude]

You're right about the instructions saying to adjust the heat-up cycle, but there's another mention of having to adjust the cool-down cycle if the heat-up is adjusted; I learned the hard way that if you start with the cool-down cycle, you'll likely solve the problem faster.  One other hard-learned lesson - the adjusting screw that can be accessed through the bottom of the toaster panel may have slipped out.  If that is the case, take the toaster apart carefully to locate it and reinstall it - that causes more burnt toast than you can imagine!!

 

 

[quebecois]

Thanks Patrick, I recently learned the trick you're talking about in one of the videos I put a linked to here a few days ago

 

[quebecois]

Here are the screws that may need adjustments in the GE toaster. I assume that the one with the hex-nut is the heat-up adjusting screw, and the thinner and longer one with the slotted head is the Cool-down adjusting screw.

 

[turquoisedude]

That's right - I'll bet that if you back up that cool-down screw, the overtoasting problem will be solved.

 

[quebecois]

I can't figure why it could have gotten out of the proper range?

 

[turquoisedude]

The bolt holding the adjusting screw probably came loose after decades of use.  Last one like this that I serviced, I used a dab of Loc-Tite to hold the bolt in place.  It's still toasting!

 

[quebecois]

It 's not like the whole thing is vibrating like an old Harley ???

 

[lowefficiency]

Perhaps the metal simply warped or fatigued? After all, repeated thermal cycling is basically the primary function of a toaster!

 

[sudsmaster]

I prefer my gravity well-done.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(Sorry, couldn't resist)

 

 

[quebecois]

Rich,

I don't understand the point of mocking someone who writes in an unusual language.

 

[sudsmaster]

Oh, Quebecois, don't be so sensitive. Also, you should know that my grandparents were from Trois Rivieres, Quebec. So I would be quite unlikely to mock you about your language.

 

However, perhaps this is the toaster you're looking for?

 

C'est vrai, sans doubt?

 

 

https://www.zerogk.space/space-oven

 

[quebecois]

I finally gave up with the GE, the handle used to push the bread slices down fell apart in four small pieces.

 

[rp2813]

Knowing when to quit is a huge part of any challenging repair project.  You gave it your best shot.  Another vintage toaster will come along for your daughter.

 

I'm not ready to give up on my short circuiting vintage Osterizer Cyclomatic blender since there are no broken parts -- yet.