Vintage Steams Irons

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support AutomaticWasher.org:

Can someone tell me?

I really don't know that much about General Mills. I am going to have to Google it or maybe there's a write-up on Wikipedia. Also, don't know a whole lot about Mary Proctor. Was that part of Proctor-Silex? And what happened to them. Got a little studying to do.... Back to MP. There are a lot of those old appliances still floating around and in use. A friend who's not into vintage has a Mary Proctor toaster that belonged to his deceased mother. He said he couldn't bare to throw it out when she passed away. It sits on his counter and see regualr use. Another very elderly lady friend of mine cooks every now and then for a group of us. She pulls out from under the counter a Mary Proctor auto percolator for after dinner coffee to go with her chocolate sheet cake which is the best I've ever tasted and I live amoung some serious bakers!! I digress tho~
 
That was easy...

And took all of about 15 sec. I googled Mary Proctor and up came a toaster with star bursts on it. It was called a Starlite. Early to mid 1960's I presume. It was appointmented with the exact same hardware & features as the Proctor-Silex four slot toaster (circa 1968) we had growing up. The one I googled was trimmed in white where our's was black. So somewhere along the way the MP badge was dropped.

The summer of 1968. That's the year my two oldest twin brothers had graduated high school and were leaving for college in the fall. My heart was broken! That's also the summer my mom hosted our big family reunion. I remember her saying she needed to get a larger toaster to handle the crowd that would be coming in. Thar's when the four slot came into our family.
 
European regulations require a double insulated plastic cord wrapped in heat resistant fabric on irons.

Just be very very careful about using European cords in the US or other 110-120V countries as they are thinner than US cords carrying the same wattage.

Higher voltage means more power can be carried without overloading cables.

Also Euro cords in general are to a different spec. Zip cord is banned in Europe and all cords must have two layers of plastic insulation.

The cable gauges are also metric, where as the US uses Ameican Wire Gauge standards. They're similar, but you would want to ensure that the European cable is as thick or thicker tan the cord you are replacing.

Then you'll find the cord would have a CEE 7/7 16 Amp plug, or a UK 13amp fused plug etc.

Fitting a new plug to iron cables isn't easy as the cloth covering tends to fray if cut.
 
Mr x

No. I wasn't planning to use a power cord from Europe. Someone was just nice enough to offer me one. US reg cloth cords can still be found here in the US even though they are not mass produced any longer. Also someone here in the US on this blog has offered me one new in the package. So I think I'm covered on all accounts. Thanks for the advice tho! I really appreciate it. Can never be too careful where electricity is concerned.
 
If you make sure to pinch the cloth cord ends into the cord holder inside appliance and plug (the thing with the screws) the cloth will never "fray", putting electric tape would be good also.
Regarding wires I've never find big differences about wires thickness on US and EU wires for the same wattage on irons as they usually tends to put wires rated for higher wattage than required, yes compared to wattage rated on wires 120 volt use to be a little thicker but anyway no big differences from me noted on appliances fro me owned and or seen on 120 volt appliances about wires and wattage, they were always enough thick to ensure no overheat of wires if used on 120 volt for same wattage,replaced 220 volt cords alot of times for my appliances working onn 120 volts..they both use to be very thick for the use they were supposed to and never a problem,an older iron usually have 1100-1200 watt as wattage no more...both 110-120 volt and 220 volt power cords from me seen on steam irons of same wattage are enough thick to ensure no overheat of wires there is not that big difference they will never melt or overheat... also if you put a cloth cord from typical newer iron 220 volt that usually are 1600-2000 watt the problem of wattage and voltage would not even exist if used on an old iron that use 1100 watts..... 220 volt wires from cords of irons 1100 watt and newer 1600 are as big in my cords...no differences...so they will work even on 120 volts for a 1110 watts without problems as they're thick enough...of course on a dryer or on a range would not work.....
It is clear that you have to be careful when replacing cords and you have to put cords with wires enough thick to ensure required current supply without overheating of wires....the same is when you use a prong to plug in more appliances at the same time....and sometimes people does not even check max amp on prongs....Anyway is a thing you learn just with the experience....
If you're unsure just compare the copper Q.ty inside wires....I used to run my fryer (1650 watt 120 volt) with a prong I made with US flat pins plugs from my old Moulinex vacuum (220 volt 600 watt) and no problems at all, wires were a little thinner than the fryer but it still works and does not even get a little warm....
So it is good to check wires if they're thick enough, but just do not make big issues if they changes just a little bit as it would not make differences nor hazards on appliances they usually put wires thicker than the use they're supposed to have.....
[this post was last edited: 9/2/2012-10:30]
 
@retromania - Glad to hear it.

You can find plenty of tables online to convert AWG to mm2 measurement for European cables. Just google convert AWG to Metric.

European cords (flexes) are gauged by measuring the cross section of the conductors in square millimeters.

Typical iron flexes would be:

1.0mm2 for lower powered irons.
1.5mm2 for higher powered irons (2.5kW and above).

The main thing you need to look at is the amperage rather than the wattage when it comes to things like plugs, socket outlets, flexes/cords etc.

A US Iron will pull up to 15amps (maximum for a socket outlet there) which corresponds to about 1800watts.
A Euro Iron will pull up to 13amps (maximum for a UK socket outlet) which corresponds to roughly 3000watts.
2400W seems to be quite a common load in Europe which is less than 10Amps at European voltage.

The majority of modern Continental European outlets can comfortably deliver up to 16amps , but in general plug-in appliances are usually designed with a target of 10A to 13A max in mind to accommodate older circuits in some buildings and also to accommodate the UK and Ireland's 13A fused plugs.

UK / Ireland plugs actually contain a small cartridge fuse so, if you've a small appliance like say a DVD player it will have a 3amp fuse in the plug, some IT equipment like say your iMac might have a 10A fuse while a clothes iron or a washing machine might have a 13amp fuse in the plug itself.

Circuits in the UK are usually 32amp rings (power fed from both ends), while in Ireland they are usually 20amp radial (similar setup to the US/continental Europe). The fuse in the plug protects the appliance cord from over-loading. It's also a handy feature as it means we basically cannot overload powerstrips as the plug fuse will blow.
 
Modern bradded iron flex (cord)

That's how a modern bradded iron flexible cord (flex in UK/IRL terminology) looks.

As you can see it's got rubber-type insulation on the internal conductors rather than harder plastics found in normal cords. They are then wrapped in a rubber outer sheath and that's bradded with woven heat-resistant fabric.

They're actually rather expensive to produce, so you can see why manufactures targeting other markets prefer plastics!

Apparently the bradding is required for mechanical reasons, not heat resistance.
The bradded flex slips more easily over surfaces as it's being moved and it also allows the cable to be made with more flexible internal insulation than with a plastic flex.

The idea is apparently to prevent cracking / friction issues.

Although, I would say it's achievable with plastic and it's more likely to be just very conservative European electrical regs.

mrx++9-2-2012-08-13-47.jpg
 
You Guys

Are way over my head. I will have study! Better yet a home demo by an electrician would be good also. I can see it now: 'Yes, I was wondering if you have anyone in your employment that could come to my house and re-wire an old steam iron for me while I watch...? ....Click!' LOLLLL
 
These are my irons of choice, I also have NIB ones just in case.

The iron on the left aswell as middle iron are both the same model, General Electric model F-92, the black one belonged to my great aunt Thresa, the white variation is my favorite, my grandma Diamond used to have one, about 13 0r 14 years ago it was replaced with an iron she won in an Avon sales contest in the mid 70s.
The far right one is a Hoover, its a nice heavy iron and the stainless steel soleplate glides effortlessly, I don use steam on it because it is a leaker.

Overall my favorite and most used iron is the white General Electric

xraytech++9-2-2012-09-57-15.jpg
 
Anyaway well if you'll ever be at a choiche for wires to bring to electrician to replace at your house while you watch LOL just base on this, if you'll be about to get some EU wires and you're unsure about amps an watts related to voltage this is a simple mathematical operation:
Watts are: Amps x volt= wattage
So 15 amp on 120 volts= 1800 watt
So if an European wire says 5 amp 220-230 volt it will be intended to support: 5 x 220= 1100 watts, if it says 8 amp: 8 x 220= 1760 watts, and so on.
Watts absorbption is a metric value that does not change and is calculated thanks to amps, while amperage changes based on the voltage....appliances like irons usually report both amps and watts on their "labels"....
Just be aware of the fact that a LITTLE difference in size does not make the difference if used on a different voltage it works without probs anyway, they always tend to put wires way more bigger and thicker than needed for a certain wattage and so amperage and this is a standardized thing on everything, actually you could "load" them more without any probs, just be sure it is not TOO little like half the size, compare them the prior one you took off.....

[this post was last edited: 9/2/2012-11:09]
 
Freddy,

I worry about my house burning down anyway. It's a 1941 dwelling with original wiring. Just can't afford to have the wiring replaced right now. No overhead attic, so there's no easy access to between the walls without trenching into the walls. They're plastered walls too and someone told me they would have to trench into the walls to replace the wiring. That's why I am so super careful!! An electrician did tell me once that as long as no one messed with the wiring it should be ok.
 
I'm not sure.. I just went to look for the darned thing and can't find it. I know it's here somewhere. In the meantime I found an old GE Featherlight with box. I've got so much stuff now I can't even remember half of it anymore

 

The iron is a Steam O matic, just noticed it as a file name on my pc   lol 

 

petek++9-2-2012-16-41-51.jpg
 
@appliguy - No worries, glad we were able to clean up that misunderstanding. Now let's go play with the other children, shall we? *LOL*

@Mr.X - Don't know if your only referring to max power for 15amp only sockets, but American homes have 20amp sockets as well. Usually one finds these circuts for high power draw appliances but not 220v, such as air conditioners, refrigerators, etc. I like to run my ironers, presses, and even irons off the 20amp circuts as it gives a bit more wiggle room in terms of power.

In general found that by "vintage" steam irons one didn't like anything say before the 1960's or 1970's as they didn't put out nearly enough steam to properly iron things unless they were dampened. Well if one is going to go through all that might as well stick with dry ironing. By about the late 1950's or so appliance makers seem to have come up with ways to produce more steam and things got better. That was until some darn fools decided irons were getting "too" hot and wattage was reduced.

Cloth cords versus plastic:

Most of my NIB vintage irons with a cloth cords state not to twist the cord into "loops" and wrap closed (as they usually come from the factory) after use, but to loosely wrap around the iron after it has cooled. Apparently the former method wears out cloth cords faster and or causes fraying.

Had to replace the cloth cord on one of my Presto "Vapor-Steam" irons and am here to tell you yes, the stuff frays and creates "dust" as cut and messed about to put on a new plug for instance. Became worried about this out of fears of Asbestos which was routinely used for insulation and other purposes back in the day. Happily vintage replacement appliance cord sets for irons are easily found at estate sales or Fleapay, so stick to ready made.

This brings up another point, if replacement appliance cord sets were so widely sold there must have been a great need. So either the irons out lasted the cords or the latter could be counted on to wear out.

Have found the earlier black/white cloth cords a bit less durable than the later blue and other colours from the 1960's or so.
 
General Mills Tru-Heat Steam Irons

There must have been millons if not billons of those irons made as they are everywhere, often NIB. Estate sales, thrifts, FleaPay, you name it.

Replacing/Rewiring Iron Cords

Local high end appliance shop's (Gracious Home) repair department will put a new cord on a iron and or rewire most electircal appliances from lamps to vacuum cleaners. Problem is most of what is made today isn't worth the bother appliance wise.

Best of the modern steam irons IMHO are the offerings from T-Fal starting back in the 1980's onwards. The ceramic soleplate just glides over fabric and most hold enough water for nearly an hour of steaming time. Sadly pour moi they have plastic housings and my first (purchased just out of college and when setting up house) lasted about five or so years before being knocked off the ironing board. It never heated after than and worse leaked. Local T-Fal repair said it wasn't worth sending in to fix, so that was that.
 
Yes.

Laundress,

That is the problem with my vintage 1960 GE steam iron. The cord was wrapped so tightly around itself and was stored that way for years. I have to be so very careful with that cord. That's why I want to replace it. While I've got you, my aunt had a steam iron when I was a child and I can barely remember it. It had a big glass container with a rubber squeeze thing on top. Can you tell me about that? I remember it looked awkward. I don't remember the brand.
 
You've Got Me

Have never heard nor seen such a contraption, and can imagine it must have been a nightmare to use.

Early steam iron designs were all over the place and many housewives either purchased them and or received them as a gift only to promptly put them away in favour of "dry ironing" dampened laundry. The early steam irons didn't produce the results many were used to and required too much effort for that they did get.

Even though one owns enough steam irons both commercial and domestic to probably open up a shop at this point, nearly 90% of my ironing is dry ironing dampened wash. Find it goes much faster and is less bother to *Moi*. However if one has the odd shirt, blouse or pant to touch-up and or certain lightweight cottons,then will haul out a steam iron.

OTHO anyone seriously into steam ironing should consider purchasing a good steam boiler system. Now there one can iron dry cottons and even heavy linens in a snap.
 
I Forgot One!!

I forgot to mention one very important iron in my small collection. I saw it in the linen cabinet last night when I put some towels away: My GE travel iron World Wide edition. This iron I don't believe was used more than once or twice. It steams well for it's size and the fact that it only has three steam holes. I know, but it's cute and a joy to look at. Again, I am impressed with the quality and workmanship that went into the little iron. My quess is it was a graduation gift or the like and was shoved in a drawer and forgotten. It (you guessed it) has a cloth cord, but in excellent condition.....
 

Similar threads

Ultramatic
Vintage Appliance Advertisements: Part Thirty-two
2
Replies
40
Views
1K
ea56
ea56
thatwasherguy
Celebrating the Holiday With Avocado Green
Replies
2
Views
503
wayupnorth
wayupnorth
Ultramatic
Vintage Appliance Advertisements: Part Thirty-one
2 3 4
Replies
105
Views
5K
daveamkrayoguy
daveamkrayoguy
Chetlaham
Home Emergency Lights
2
Replies
36
Views
1K
phillymatt53
phillymatt53
I
Ironrite 88 issue - opening?
Replies
2
Views
411
ironmaiden
I

Latest posts

Back
Top