VintageFrigidaire Custom Dlx Electric stove - $160 (Hanford)

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thanks to Phil...

up in VT we have the '77 Harvest Gold version of the 40" one shown up top, and it does have the full glass panel, which is a dream to clean, just one big flat piece of glass. Nothing from cooking gets behind it. But oddly, ours has the rolling cylinder digital clock, and some kind of dark film from it has been lightly deposited on the back side of the glass right in front of it, probably graphite or whatever was used to lube it! Will have to disassemble the glass panel to clean it off sometime.
 
About clocks that make a dark film in the control panel glass, that also happened in a few of my ranges. I don't know why they do that! Even those with needles do that but that's easy to wash!

 

Phil, here's the Meat Tender that I repaired! I tried to cook something with it and it didn't buzz, so I left the plug in the oven as it cooled down and fixed it. I like to play with clocks and buzzers! 

 



 
For some reason, videos from Flickr don't embed like those on Youtube. I already edited my post and replaced that with two links! 
 
Frigidaire Custom Deluxe 40" Stove

I have a Frigidaire Custom Deluxe 40" stove and need help with the speed heat burner. I have just recently replaced the burner but it does not heat up completely. Note: it didn't before the replacement either. I don't know if the switch is wired incorrectly or is the wrong one. I don't remember if it was ever replaced over the years or not.
If I do need a switch I can't locate a part number anywhere to search for one and unfortunately I cannot locate the manual for the stove.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
Did you replace the burner with a 118V burner? The Speed Heat burner itself is different from other Frigidaire 6" burners as it's a 118V burner instead of 236. The switch itself isn't the same as the regular burner switches.

If your range uses the original switch, it's a dual voltage switch that flashes the 118V burner on 236 volts for a few seconds after you turn it on. Then it cycles it on and off on 118 volts so it maintains it's temperature to the chosen setting.

The Speed Heat switch, because of the low resistance of the 118 volts burner is subject to a lot of wear from arcing the contacts when it operates on 236 volts. If the contact points go bad, they could either stick together and stay closed or burn and not make contact anymore. Many things can happen, it could flash the burner on for the quick warm up then nothing, it could cycle on 236 volts which makes the burner red hot everytime it cycles on=off or the "surface" light could stay on when the control is set at off.. In any of these cases, the switch needs to be replaced.

If the burner was replaced with a regular 236V burner, it will stay too cool. If the switch was replaced, there's a special type that is made to cycle correctly with the 118 volt burner (won't do the quick warm up like the original) or you could use a regular 236 volts burner and a regular 236 volts switch like the one used for the rear 6" burner. In both cases, there's one wire from the original switch that has to be removed. The neutral wire won't be used with the 236V switch and burner setup and one of the hot wires won't be used with the 118V switch.
 

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