Washer won't stop filling

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iheartmaytag

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Joined
Mar 19, 2008
Messages
4,760
Location
Wichita, Kansas
I work with a woman, single mother, three kids, not much money. She has what she believes is about a 20 year old Maytag TL (not sure of model number at this time). It won't stop filling.

I haven't seen the machine, as she was just describing her problems today. She said that it will reach water level and start agitation, but the water doesn't shut off. I think it is a pressure switch, but a co-worker who knows someone that knows someone said she though it was the fill valve stuck, as if it were the pressure switch it wouldn't start agitation.

She was getting ready to buy a used machine for $150, I suggested she would be better off repairing this one.

What I need from you experts, RCD you have never let me down. How does one check to see which part is the culpret? Keeps filling, will agitate and spin. Curently she has to manually shut off the water feed or machine overlfows.
 
some sand in (well?) water ?

this occurred too in some FL without the small grill on the hose connex. Sand may clog the inlet valve
 
Your multimeter to see what voltage you have running through your pressure switch when it is supposed to shut off. Most people always wanna blame this on inlet solenoids but very unlikely. I may be of base here but try your multimeter and a schematic would help if you are a beginner. good luck~
 
must be a halloween machine. Ghost in the machine most likely. Could the solenoids be stuck? I don't see this often enough to be a diagnoser.
 
We have extremely hard water here and it's very common to see water valves stuck open or that close very slowly. Sounds like that's what's going on here - especially if the water keeps running with no power to the washer.

Replace the valve and she should be good to go...
 
Rolls eyes at fellow posters... LOL

Yes, you just need to replace the water valve. Part number 205613 and should be around $30. I doubt the solenoids are stuck where the diaphram(s) probably are. What usually happens is owners will change the inlet hose washers and not put the screened ones back in. Also, they will pull the screens out of the valve itself and not put them back in. This valve is the most common water valve ever. Just about any Maytag t/l will use it. Do I date myself when I say I can remember rebuilding those valves whereas it's just easier and cheaper to just replace the whole thing now?

Change this from the back of the unit. Two things to be aware of. 1) Orientation of the solenoids where the wires connect. Some are pointing away from each other and some have them pointing to the side at the same time. The new valve will work either way. Just gently lift up on the keeper holding the coil on so you can pivot the coil the right direction. 2) The valve comes with a small, clear sleeve. If the hose that connects to the valve output is too big, slip the sleeve over the end to make the nipple bigger.

RCD
 
RCD

YOU ARE THE MAN.

You have been dead-on-balls everytime.
I can't tell you how happy you made my co-worker just now. She is on the phone to Washer Specialist right now ordering the part.
Thanks
 
I'm sorry

I should have said thanks to all who responded, I only skipped to the last post.

Thank you everyone. She was just sitting her saying "If I have to buy a new washer I may have to sell the twins." I don't think she was talking about her twin daughters.
 
An Update

My co-worker just called Washer Speclity Service they will wholesale the part to her for $7.50.

What a deal, and it saved a good washer from the scrap pile. Actually the used guy would sell her a used machine for $150, take hers and charge her $25 to haul away, replace the part and resell it for a huge profit. She is out a bunch more than $7.50.

Thanks again guys for your help.
 
All fixed

With the help of you great people on this board, a wholesale appliance parts store, and 15 minutes free labor. Her machine is fixed and busy washing undies.

Thanks again to everyone for your help
 

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