water heater maintenance

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passatdoc

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 31, 2006
Messages
2,038
Location
Orange County, California
My home, built 1988, is on its third natural gas water heater. The one that came with the house lasted only six years, though admittedly I knew nothing about maintenance in those days. The replacement, which my plumber obtained via the wholesale house, cost about $300 back then and probably was of low quality. I don't recall the brand. It too died within seven years. My current heater, a Bradford White, was installed in March 2003 and hence turns nine years old in a few months. The longest-lived heater I've owned!!

I knew I was supposed to drain the heater once a year, but when I did so, water return out of the drain was sluggish. The TPR valve was leaking as well, so I called the plumber to make sure it was done right. My neighbors had had to pay $1200 (full service plumber, they are elderly and cannot install themselves) for a 40 gallon gas heater, so the days of regarding these as throwaway devices are over. Now, they cost more than most washers.

He replaced the TPR valve and I told him about my difficulties in draining the tank, despite following the suggested procedure. The problem lay in the cheap PVC plastic drain valve: the outlet was very narrow, too narrow for sediment to pass through.

He replaced it with a 3/4" brass valve, and when we drained the tank, so much sediment came out that it looked like someone dumped an aquarium on the driveway. Of course, this was six years or so of accumulation. If/when this heater dies, the valve can be removed and installed on a new heater.

Now I drain it every six months. The sediment is no longer very impressive because it hasn't had six years to accumulate behind a narrow outlet valve. He also recommended changing the anode rod every two years, which I do myself. He said with proper care it's not uncommon to see gas heaters last for 20-30 years.

What maintenance do you gas water heater owners follow? How long do your heaters typically last? When they cost $300, I admittedly paid scant attention to maintenance, but now I do.
 
We have a Bradford White of the same year as you do. When the plumber replaced the drain valve did he just unscrew the old one and screw in the new one?

Out hot water tank is in the attic. It cost us $1250 to replace it. The labor is now more expensive than the tank itself.

I will admit that we have been very lax in the annual sediment drain off.

And we have not replaced the anode rod either. Is it easy to do?
 
Bradford White

Jim like you we do the every 6 month drain.  Replaced our anode rod last year.  Ours is now 16 years old.  If thisones goes out we have decided to go with a tankless system.  

 

Allen the rods are pretty easy to replace.  I got mine from local supply company (Locke)
 
Water heaters

Another thing my dad always drianed our s at home every 6 months my whole life so guess I was brought up right.  House was built right after I was born in 1949 and when they moved in 1996 from it to town the hot water heater (a Crane) was still going strong.

 

 
 
Simple maintenance will do the trick for the most part. I've used Sears tanks for years, not sure of the manufacturer, but they last.  My first Sears tank lasted 21 years, I just replaced a second one, it lasted just short of 20 years.  The one I bought at sears was $279- half price on clearance and has a 12 year warranty.  So if I care for it it should last double that, at least that has been my experience.

 

so, drain and replace the rod and things should be good, barring the failure of the gas valve which happened to me a few years back.  Found one on Ebay for $40, not a bad price.
 
I flush mine about once a year, not much comes out, but mainly because I have a sediment filter at the incoming supply, protects faucet valves and washers, solenoids of the appliances, and keeps all the aireators from getting clogged.......and this filter gets changed once a year also, better to change one filter rather than clean all the other ones out...........

I had a new one installed when I got my house in 1993, and just had it replaced about a year ago......300.00 for the heater, and 170.00 for labor........but in reality I could have replaced the whole thing myself.......I also opted to have mine moved out of the way under the stair well.....wasted space....

most water heaters have a so-called warranty.....say 8 years, and thats about how long they last.....any thing past that is a blessing.......mine was a 12 year, and I got 17 out if it, not bad actually...

your mileage may vary.....
 
@Allen: yes, he just unscrewed the OEM drain valve and screwed in the 3/4 brass valve with on-off 90-degree arm handle. There is also a fancy drain cap that screws on and is attached to the body of the valve with a chain. It can be removed and used on the next water heater, which hopefully won't be for a long time. Many hardware stores like Lowes and Home Depot carry the anode rods, at least for the makes of heater they sell. THe plumber sold me an extra one, so I won't have to buy one when two years comes up this spring. Process looks pretty easy.
 
I also have a Bradford White water heater that I have been extremely happy with. It is about two years old. Our gas bill dropped by about 40% after we installed the much more efficient water heater. My brother does facilities management for a major restaurant corporation and recommended BW based on the success they have with them at their many stores.

@passatdoc: Can you please share your instructions for replacing the anode rod? I am thinking of replacing mine. Thanks for posting!

Bob
 
Thanks Allen

For finding that vedio on changing out the rod.  For a breaker Take your socket handle to the hardware store and purchase a fairly heavy duty ppe that just fits over the end of the wrench (2 to 3 feet) and when hone sand dowb the ends to make smooth and use tht as your breaker bar (growing up my Dad called then Cheater Bars)  This is a cheap way for snothing this is not used thqt often.

 

 
 
I have one like you describe that is 6 feet long! I use it to remove the rear axle nuts off of the hubs on my VW. You have to STAND on the cheater bar to break those nuts. Those are on there VERY tightly!
 
Twice over the years I have moved into a house with a relatively (5 or 6 years) new but BOL water heater and within a year I woke up to a hissing sound and steam billowing up the basement stairs because the bottom of the tank had rusted-through.  Both times I had a new A. O. Smith gas water heater installed and never had another problem, with no maintenance, even going on 15+ years in both cases.   I grew up in a house built in the 50's and I don't ever remember Dad doing anything other than replacing a thermocouple on the original GE gas water heater until he bought a new one sometime in the late 70s.  When I sold my aunt's house after she passed away in 2002, the original electric water heater from 1948 was still going strong.  In each case, I'm sure the longevity was due to having soft water.
 
@henry2000: agree, I think what does in California water heaters is our hard water ("a little piece of the Grand Canyon in every glass..."). When the plumber installed a 3/4" drain valve, so that I could REALLY drain the sediment from the bottom of the tank, what came out looked like a small bucket of aquarium sand. Now that that sediment (six years of accumulation---I attempted to drain once a year but most of the sediment remained inside due to the narrow OEM drain valve diameter) has been flushed out, the sediment that washes out now is very sparse, so most likely the tank sediment is very low. I flush the tank with water (open the cold water intake valve) two or three times after the initial drain. Apparently in a BW model, the water intake enters the tank in such a way as to create a whirlpool or spiral current within the tank, which sweeps up sediment and allows it to drain out.

(note: during the flush process, you TURN OFF the pilot and burner valve. Relight pilot after you have completed the flush/drain and have refilled the tank with cold water. If you have piezo ignition, still turn off the burner control and gas valve to ensure that the burner doesn't try to relight while you have an empty tank).
 
Crap!

My electric water heater is 7.5 yrs old. I'm on city water. I've never done anything to it.

A friend of mine who lives here in Lexington.......Hers was 16 years old and never had anything done to it (I think it was gas but can't be sure)

She came home from work, and the house was flooded with water because it failed or something and leaked all of the water out.
 
We haven't done anything to ours since we got it in 2003. I'm going to change the anode rod and drain it tomorrow. I hope I'm not too late. I'd like to install a larger drain as directed, but I am afraid I'd get the old one out and not be able to install the new one.

Our local codes require that our hot water heaters sit in a metal pan at least 4 inches deep and the pan have a drain to the outside of the home. When our first one went out the builder had it in a plastic pan that had cracked and had no drain to the outside. It leaked down the walls into my office and the bathroom. Fortunately we caught it before it soaked everything to the point of needing replacement.
 
Anode rod removal

A neighbor who was moving out of state gave me their six year old six year warranty water heater (GE I think). He said they weren't able to pull the anode rod. Well, I tried with my biggest breaker bar (three feet). Then I got out the air tools and finally the pneumatic impact wrench (same as used on cars) did the trick.

Turned out the anode rod was still in pretty good shape. No wire showing, plenty of life left.

Eventually the heater will go into the workshop to provide hot water for the washer collection there. Or maybe it will be a backup for the 30 year old Montgomery Ward water heater in the main house, which got a new anode rod about six years ago.
 
I'm hoping my anode rod won't require too much force to unscrew. It's no longer the OEM but is on its first replacement rod. So I hope I can get it off.

@Allen/whirlcool, in OC CA code requires the metal pan, but it doesn't have to be connected to a drain. The heater must be on a raised pedestal as well. In our case, just a PVC pipe that dumps water on the garage floor. However, the garage floor is 6" below the house floor, and the garage floor is sloped so water drains away from house and toward the driveway. So the only damage would be if you left anything on the floor that absorbs water---we don't, everything is on steel Gorilla-brand racks, and the racks have plastic feet to prevent rust.

The 3/4" valve makes it MUCH easier to remove sediment. The narrow OEM valve was the reason I wasn't able to drain away most of the sediment in the past.
 
This sort of reminds me that it's time for me to flush out the water heater and maybe even check the anode rod. This four day weekend is probably as good a time as any.

The one I put in six years ago was sort of odd. It was very bendable. I guess they make those for situations where there isn't enough clearance above the water heater to install an anode rod. In this case, the bendy quality wasn't needed, but I wonder if it will last as long as a rigid anode rod. In any case, I have a couple of spares just in case.

Just checked: this is a 50 gallon Montgomery Ward heater installed in 1977. That would make it about 34 years old. 53,000 BTU. I replaced the anode rod in 2002. Replaced the water valve at the same time. Replaced the pressure release valve in 2003. It's overdue for a flushing and a rod check.

Also, another component that can give trouble is the cold water inlet tube. These are plastic tubes that direct incoming cold water towards the bottom of the tank. Apparently a number of these were installed in water heaters during a certain period made of plastic that didn't last long enough. After a while they disintegrate and can clog plumbing with bits of plastic. Something to look for when you flush the tank - or you might see the plastic bits on faucet screens.
 
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