Water Heater Pee'd the floor

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iheartmaytag

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2008
Messages
4,760
Location
Wichita, Kansas
Last night I was doing laundry. When I walked down the hall I thought I saw a dark spot on the carpet by the wall but didn't think anything because my eyesight is so bad I see shadows. I took the basket back upstairs and came down again and stepped on the spot--EWWW!! it's wet.

Appears the six year old 40 gal Bradford-White Water tank has done sprung a leak. I have to call a plumber today. I would like to go with a tankless, but can't afford it right now. I know the internet warnings are against Whirlpool or American Water Heater built tanks. Bradford-White is rated good, but I would think it should last longer than six years; then again nothing lasts anylonger.

RUUD is another suggestion I have heard, and also heard bad against. Any suggestions from those of you that know better than I--which is all of you BTW. I just would rather spend $600 than $2,000.
 
OK,

First - it might still be under warranty. Or it was just a loose joint. Or condensation. Or the pressure relief valve. Have those checked first.

If you do need a new one, Whirlpool has fixed their problem with the flame sensor - and that was their only deficit.

I've put in two GEs in the last years and was very happy with them. Got both at HomeDepot.

The sacrificial anode determines lifespan, by the by.

Make sure the plumber uses pipe dope - if he does use teflon, make sure it's the kind for gas. Dope is enormously to be preferred, though.
 
we have the 40 gal ge branded, natural gas water heater, it works quite well, seldom do we ever run out of hot water. Best of luck, seems like they usually fail in the winter when tap water is bone chilling. alr2903
 
It's not a fitting

It's leaking from the bottom of the tank.

People I have talked to say that the water tanks are not lasting as long because of the chemicals they put in the water. Our's usually fail in the spring or summer months when there is an alge bloom at the resivor. They up the chlorine and it reacts with the heat inside the tank and next thing you know you have a wet floor.

I had two State water tanks when I lived in the Mobile Home that failed in two years. Mobile Home tanks only carry a one year warranty, and a $800 price tag for the sealed combustion units.

I was checking and there isn't an annode visible on the top of the tank.
 
We have a Bradford-White that we bought 5 years ago, with a 6 year warranty and it's making rumbling noises. The last Bradford-White that was up there did that a few months before it failed.
I really wanted a Bryant or a Rheem as I have had excellent experiences with those models. But when you call around here, it seems the only thing anyone carries in stock is Bradford-White.
And they charge a fortune for them! I think there may be a high markup on them.
 
Check this...

Check the drain valve. Sometimes these do leak.

GE branded water heaters are available at Home Depot and are made by Rheem. Richmond branded water heaters sold at Menard's are also Rheem. I've installed one of each in recent months and I think they're alright. The owners are quite happy with their performance.

Is your water heater gas or electric? Can you install yourself or will you use a plumber? A self-install isn't that hard, but for a novice, it will take some time (start early in case it takes you the majority of the day). What kind of plumbing do you have, copper, galvanized, cpvc, pex, or something else?

Shut off the old water heater and close the valve on the tank's inlet. Then drain the tank through a hose (open a hot water tap upstairs). Then use a shop vac to suck up as much water as possible from the carpet, then point some fans at it and run the AC or a dehumidifier to dry it out.

Good luck,
Dave
 
Yes, mine has been rumbling and cracking the last few months. I do the flush every fall and spring, but never get much out of it. This tank is supposed to have a swirl type fill pipe that lessens the sediments in the tank.
 
Talked to a plumber. He can install a Ruud/Rheem 40 gal 40,000 BTU nat. gas for $600.

Question, can get a 50 gal for about the same price. Do I lose or gain any efficency going larger? (Thought I had better edit that one--stop it Toggles) The 40 gal I have seems to meet demands ok.
 
Bigger is better. But only when it applies to one's savings account!

1- Do you have enough hot water in the dead of winter?
2- Will you be or did you already switch to a front-loading washer?

Forget "efficiency". You will lose, maybe $1.00 to $2.00 per month to keep an extra 10 gallons of water hot and in storage.

Concern yoruself with input BTU/h. If the 50 gallon tank does not have AT LEAST 50,000 BTU/h heat input it will make no ultimate difference; or I should say IMPROVEMENT.

The size of water heater needed will depend on the number of kitchens and bathrooms, number of inhabitants, and number of washing machines served.

I'd say

a) Look for a HWH that is completely non-electric to be able to have hot water in a black-out.

b) Ensure you have at least 40k BTU/h heat input for 40 gallons, 50K BTU/h for 50 gallons etc.

c) Get the one with the longest warranty, of course, relative to price. It's no secret that the longer the warranty the greater the price will be.


And finally, before changing HWH sizes realize that the length of pipes will have to change, the flue location on the chimney may have to change and sometimes if you have a 3" flue connection you'll need a 4" one.

If the 40 gallon tank serves you well, chances are a 50 gallon tank (and any necessary changes to piping etc.) may not be a necessary or resonable expense.
 
1) The sacrificial anode will look like a big nut (about 1-1/4" wide) at the top of the tank. All tank water heaters must have one. Some *might* have the anode built into the hot water output fitting, but it's been my understanding that these are for additional protection, not primary protection. That nut can be tough to loosen, though. When my neighbor gave me his seven year old six-year warranty 40 gallon heater, I had to use an automotive air-impact wrench to get the nut off.

2) If your water is very soft and/or on the acidic side, your anode and your tank won't last as long. In your area, since the water heaters aren't lasting very long. I would check the anode every year. There probably isn't much you can do about the too-soft water (unless you use an in-house water softener, in which case you should only send the harder water to the heater) or too-acidic water, except maybe complain to the water company.

3) $600 isn't bad for a 40 gallon heater, installed. That's pretty much the retail price for just the heater around here these days. They used to be around $300 ten years ago, but the price has shot up with the pilotless ignition and/or extra flame protection that the most recent heaters have.

4) Toggles is right, a 50 gallon will cost you more to keep the water hot all the time. You can improve efficiency, esp on a 6 yr model, by wrapping the tank with an insulating blanket. These are available at stores. I used some extra 1" thick foil faced heating duct wrap to put an extra layer around my 30 year old 50 gallon Monkey Ward tank. Seems to help. Be careful not to cover the heating controls or the top of the heater, though. You can also save by putting pipe insulation around all the hot water lines.

5) Like Toggles, I don't much like teflon tape for anything other than air lines. I prefer Rector-Seal pipe dope. They make a version that is specifically for gas lines. Theoretically, all pipe dope does is to lubricate the threads so you can torque them to the point where the metal-metal contact is 100%. But I know people who swear up and down that pipe dope (and even teflon tape) also has a sealing function. Well, maybe under low pressure, but the primary seal should be metal-metal, IMHO.
 
It might be worth it to call Bradford White and tell them your issues.
Our Bradford White Powervent has a 10 year full coverage warranty. Even covers labor. You might get them to cover your loss for such a short life on that tank. Even the el-cheapo's usually last longer than 6 years.
 
A.O. Smith

I just had an A.O. Smith Professional water heater installed back at the first of the year. My old water heater was 11 years old. Thought I would rather replace it than wait for a leak to happen. It came with a 6 year leak warrantee. I guess that is average now.

Malcolm
 
I went with the 40 gallon

It fit exactally where the other was without haveing to modify the flue or other pipes. He finished up and we had hot water again about 9:30 last night.

We are on city water, no softner. The plumber said that the city just recently sent a notice to everyone that they had higher than normal particulates in the water. Not sure if that's the reason, but he has replaced about 200 water heaters in the last two months.
 
Toastmaster

I went to an estate sale and in the basement of this old home was an ancient electric water heater. It was a TOASTMASTER - complete with the toaster-type decoration on it. Straight out of the 50s.
I still wonder how that thing lasted so long... By now it should be toast. (sorry..)
 
By now it should be toast.

instead of still being MASTER of its domain?

Plus, I wonder if Toastmaster's water heater thermostats read: "Light Medium Dark?"

On a more serious note, I honestly have to wonder if older water heaters weren't better built once, just like washing machines. The house I grew up in had a Sears water heater installed 1960-something. (A lot of the papers relating to that sort of thing were actually left behind by whoever owned the house then. Possibly a real help for future owners. And certainly a lot of fun for the future LordKenmore.) My father learned that the water heater was about 20 years old, and sort of sighed, saying it's got to be getting so old it'll soon need to be replaced. That water heater was still working when the house was sold a few years later. It was probably 25-30 years old.
 
While we're thinking of water heaters

I'm wondering a couple of questions about older water heaters.

First, when did the style of today (Tall, white cylinder) come around?

Second, was there ever a time when water heaters were made box-like, looking at least somewhat like a standard top load washer or dryer? (I have a vague sense I might have seen such a water heater once, but it's possible that I got somehow mixed up--I was pretty young at the time.)
 
My Grandparents had a Square 500L Dux unit from when the Wood stove was replaced with Electric in 71 or 72.

The floor area it covered was about 70cm x 70cm and It was that tall that I couldnt see the top of it, I'm 183cm.

Twin elements, Night rate Tarrif with a switch to get peak rate should the hotwater run out.

The tank was still in place and functional in 2004 when the house was sold and had no maintenance to that time.

It was a steel tank with a copper lining, I guess thats what gave it its longevity.
 
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