Westinghouse Open Handle Iron Question

[vintagekitchen]

I just got one of these lovely beasts, and it heats beautifully, but I have no idea how to fill it with water for the steam function. The knob has 3 options, dry, steam, fill. But no what I turn it to, there is nowhere for the water to go... One would assume it goes in that notch on the side of the knob, but no matter what setting I choose, the water just runs around the knob, rather than into the iron. Anyone else know how to fill one of these things?

 

[launderess]

IIRC

You turn the dail to "Fill" and slowly pour water around the *top* of the dial towards the outer rim.

If you closely you'll see the dial is in two parts. The center around nut which is metal (IIRC), and the outer Bakelite knob portion with the letter writing. Between the two circles there should be an opening where water can enter the iron.

Think of it as two circles with the center slightly higher than the outer, sort of like when the edges of a hubcab aren't flush with a tire.

 

[norgeway]

NICE!

I have a NIB iron like this, but mine has a black knob and handle, I never saw a white one before.

 

[abcomatic]

I have the same white iron that I bought for my mom in 1962. When you fill it, fill it slowly and then tilt it up slowly too. Then set it to steam. Empty it in reverse and make sure all of the water it out. Gary

 

[tomturbomatic]

I have this style WH in a dry iron and really like its weight and design.

 

[mixguy]

filling the water reservoir

An aunt had this iron with a black handle. Think you have to turn the knob to the fill position and either lift or lower the black outer knob. Creating a space for water to flow between the red plug and black knob. CU downrated this iron for this strange way to fill the iron when is was sold in the mid-1960s. I wonder if it came in other colors besides black or white?

 

[launderess]

The Iron That Clicks!

Have the same Westinghouse Adjust-a-Matic Iron in the non-steam (dry) version as well.

Good nice, heavy and well balanced iron. Love the open handle design which is still found on many commercial laundry/dry cleaner models today.

Emptying and to an extent filling the steam version must be a royal pain.

Old adverts for this iron made the case that steam protected one's fine textiles whilst ironing. The iron rested on a "cushion of steam" as it were, which to an extent all is true.

For many textiles steam ironing is actually better for them than dry ironing dampened fabric, even with a pressing cloth. Of course this was a marketing ploy done not only by Westinghouse but Proctor and anyone else whom sold steam irons. There was a real push to get housewives to purchase the "new" steam/dry irons but many resisted.

 

[vintagekitchen]

Many Many Thanks Launderess Luv

I tried what you said, worked fine, but oh good lord it takes forever to fill the iron with the stingy little trickle one must use to avoid overflowing the lip. And after all that bloody palaver, the steaming was lackluster as well, nowhere near the amount put out by a vintage Proctor-Silex. Will attempt a vinegar clean, and see if it improves steaming, but I don't foresee this iron getting much use at my home. Its the prettiest iron I own, but the handle seems to fit my hand oddly compared to the more narrow GE dry iron or Proctor-Silex steam iron handles. Also I prefer a dry iron for most jobs anyway.

 

[launderess]

Early Steam Irons Aside From My Presto "Vapor-Steam"

Don't impress me either. By the time Proctor-Silex came into being (around the 1960's ?) steam irons finally began to deliver some moisture power.

It was the shortcomings you noticed that was behind many housewives not really bothering with steam irons back then. While they may have been good for certain fabrics cottons and linens especially if heavy still required ironed dampened textiles.

 

[dynaflow]

it also came

in copper body brown handle saw one on ebay recently they r a pain to fill love my old Presto cant beat teh steam function

 

[vintagekitchen]

Launderess, a question?

You mentioned earlier that steam was preferrable for some fabrics. Could you give some examples? I normally sprinkle and dry iron everything, only using steam when I have just a few items to press, or to do a quick touch up on something before wearing it. Any ironing hints are always welcome. ^__^

Also, Thank you soooo much! Your package arrived today, it was very generous of you to share. Right now the bars you sent are on either side of my find from the weekend, a full, unopened, box of Instant Fels Naptha! Amazing how it turned up so soon after my little experiment from before.

 

[launderess]

Rayon is one fabric gradually harmed by "dry" ironing. Silk fabrics should never be "sprinkled" to dampen and iron as the fiber is prone to water spots. Steam ironing (if one's iron will put out steam at such a cool setting), or dry ironing slightly damp fabric is better. The old way would be to take a silk item from the wash and roll it in a towel and allow the moisture to be absorbed until the garment was damp dry enough to iron. The alternative today would be to use a very low rpm final spin. If the item is still too damp see above about the towel.

There is a school of thought that steam ironing benefits all fabrics that can withstand the process (which by nature would exclude many man made fibers unless a cool iron setting is used), because the steam helps protect fibers from the iron's not surface.

Today it is rare outside of commercial irons to find anything with the heat given off by vintage irons or sad irons. Dry ironing is basically drying and smoothing cloth by applying heat and friction. Both can cause fibers to break down if done often enough. Pressing (either by machine or hand) is slightly better as it eliminates friction, but one is still applying heat.

If one irons an area too long past the point when all moisture has evaporated you run the risk of burning or scorch if you will. This often shows up as yellowing on cottons or linens. Indeed the European process of cold mangling/ironing is said to be better for fabrics and keep them white and fresh, that is not using heat.

Have two cold mangles (one manual, one electric) and for some items, mainly linen or cotton fabrics the process works great.

Dry ironing also can damage fabrics if heavy pressure is applied by the operator. This will be especially true on folds/creases such as collars,cuffs and hems. There you'll start to see fraying and other damage caused by abrasion.

Mind you allot of this friction/abrasion damage can be delayed or eliminated by using an iron with a smooth soleplate. In the old days one would apply wax to any iron or ironer to keep the surface slick. Such products are still sold today for commercial laundries, but with the advent of SS,Teflon and ceramic soleplates most home irons do not require waxing.