What can y'all tell me about an Ironrite in a wood cabinet?

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volvoguy87

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There are several Ironrites on Cincinnati's Craigslist right now (they seem to grow on trees here). I am seriously considering buying one of them. The ad has no picture, but it says it has a wood cabinet and it dates to 1932 (no idea how true the date is). It also has its original instructions and the seller claims it is in good working order.

What model might this be, and what can you tell me about it? Also, how should I move it? (Upright, with a friend, with a crane, don't?)

The asking price is $75.00 OBO, would that be a fair price, provided it is in good condition?

If I get it, I'll also need a good description of how to use the darn thing. I've never seen one before, much less used one.

Thanks,
Dave
 
Wood Cabinet Ironrites

Range from plain brown to some very fancy items that looked like small hi-fi's.

Moving ALL Ironrite ironers, with the exception of the portable "880" series requires either one drain the oil from the gear box, or keep unit upright at all times. Otherwise one risks gear oil leaking all over including into the motor.

If the unit is in good working condition, $50 to $75 seems reasonable. Ironrite as indeed ironer prices in general have no rhyme or reason. Some sell for several hundreds of dollars, others can't be given away.

Owner's manual tells one everything you need to know about use and care of the unit. However if the unit is that old, would drain out any oil in the gear box, clean it out with proper cleaner, then add new oil. Some persons also have the old power cord swapped out for a newer grounded version.

Wood cabinet Ironrites were something either housewives loved or hated. IIRC, the were designed for homes without a dedicated laundry-room and or space for the full sized white versions, and thus looked like "furniture", better to blend into say a living room. Problem is wood is not thought of as a sanitary surface, and I at least would worry about staining my freshly laundered and ironed linens from contact with wood, regardless of the finish.

L.
 
Mary Jones is at it again

Here's a link showing how to use an Ironrite. And yes you can iron just about anything on one. It just takes some time and practice. There is also a part two on the website. I had a wood case one and I believe it was from the 1950s.

Follow Launderess' advice about moving, cleaning and getting the machine set up. If you are able to test it, check to see if it heats up and that the motor sounds smooth and turns the drum easily. There is a covered chain drive on one side of the drum that can also be cleaned and relubed. I used to use non-flamable brake cleaner to get all the old grease and oil out of mine.

And most of all...good ironing is dry ironing!

 
Yes, By All Means Test!

It takes about 12mins on average for an Ironrite to reach proper temperature, especially higher settings. Though older elements are still to be found NIB (have one or two in my stash), there is someone on eBay offering new modern elements as well. IIRC, the man will fit them as well. You remove the heating plate and send it down.

Personally the only Ironrite one would really bother with is the 90 series. It was one of the last and some say the best. Went to single control instead of the two thigh controlled levers, also the thermostat is much more accurate. Other features included a light so one can see what one is doing.

Only wished Ironrite had taken a page from other ironers and added a speed control. Lack of one is the reason do not use my Ironrite as much as one should. Mind you just fitted on some new padding, (made from a bolt of commercial ironer padding), and that has slowed things down a bit, but still. Otherwise one is left with an annoying stop and go motion. Thankfully my Ironrite portable "880" unit only has the one lever, so there is one small mercy.

Have actually been on the hunt for another vintage ironer to take some of the work off my Pfaff. In particular am looking for one of those huge Maytag units with a roller of about 30" in length. IIRC, Conlon had one that long as well, but they are VERY hard to find.

Maytag also had it's own version of the "Ironrite" ironer, am not sure if they built it themselves or out sourced from Ironrite directly. Given the history of Maytag slapping their name on other appliances aside from their famous washing machines and dryers, don't doubt it came from Ironrite. Earlier Maytag ironers are exactly like Conlon units, this is before the switch over to the Ironrite design.
 
Oh, And Another Piece of Advice

Unless the roller cover is new, you will need to change. Don't bother with very old NOS covers unless they are in good condition. Some have rotted away inside the package and one will not know until one has paid one's money.

If you can sew a new roller cover is a piece of cake to whip up, and can be made from any good quality cotton muslin. There is also a woman on eBay who runs them up as well.

You also want to test the padding. Turn the machine on, insert a small item like a pillow slip, then engage the roller and start rolling for a bit, then stop the roller. Now pull on the fabric. It should not come out but remain firmly held by the roller. Otherwise the padding will have to be changed as well.

Under NO circumstances should one ever wash the ironer padding. It was made from knitted cotton and will shrink.

L.
 
Thanks for the tips.

I am going to look at it tomorrow afternoon.

I hope this works out. I loathe ironing, but I do an awful lot of it because I like the results. I have recently started getting into starch and like those results even more. I realized that I can empty a can of starch in no time flat, so I have started mixing my own. I hope I can starch on an Ironrite.

Thanks a bunch and keep the tips coming so I can use the machine properly,
Dave

Starched pillow cases are my newest weakness in life.
 
Yes, One Can Starch

With an Ironrite,or any ironer for that matter, however one will need to use less starch and indeed there will often be less of a need for it.

Ironers and laundry presses exert far more pressure upon textiles than any hand iron. Thus surfaces are smoother and glossier without using starch. Too much starch will result in items not only blistering, but literally coming out of the ironer as if they had been pressed with heavy glue.

If one is going to starch with an ironer, best to use the old fashioned Argo or Fautless powdered starches one "boils" on top of the stove, and use the immersion method of starching. Fautless also has a liquid version of starch one can add to the final rinse of washing machine.
 
Moving An Ironrite

Almost forgot.

Most all cabinet Ironrites come apart into two sectinons. That is the legs come off the cabinet. This is how they were shipped to homes, and assembled there. Ironrite would send a man over to not only assemble the ironer, but put in the oil as well as units were not shipped with oil in the gear boxes for reasons listed above.

The gear oil is nothing more than SAE50 non-detergent oil. Don't bother with any NOS cans of Ironrite oil you see on eBay. Stuff may have been around for ages and stored under less than ideal conditions.

L.
 
I can't iron worth a darn! I found this thread fascinating! I always wondered how these ironers were used. Still wonder about bed sheets. As you are ironing one portion, isn't the other just re-wrinkling?

Thanks,
Rick
 
Ironing with an Ironrite

I have found that an old 100% linen tablecloth works great as a cover ( it seems to stand up to the heat better ). And rember no matter how good you get you will still have creases in sleeves and pants. Jeff
 
Well, No Actually

If one has the motions down and the linen is at proper thickness, it should not wrinkle again, however much depends upon the design of the ironer and or length and width of the linens.

Remember the uber huge "king" and "super king" sized sheets one sees today weren't as common pre-1970's which is one small mercy, however by and large one had to fold linens into halves or thirds to fit the width of the ironer's roll.

With ironers that had two open ends, such as my Pfaff and the Ironrite one can open the sheet up and iron down the middle, then fold in half and iron the unironed portions. Given my Pfaff has a roller of about 34", this is an easy way to do twin, double and even king sheets. It works a treat for large table cloths as well. This method does not iron iron in creases.

With other ironers that had only one open end, or if one didn't mind creases, one irons either two ways:

Iron the selvage edges (both sides), then iron the fold making a crease (again both sides), and finally if one wishes fold sheet into quarters and feed through again, but only once. This makes a sheet folded into quarters length wise with four creases.

Or, one could simply fold the sheet into quarters or whatever size would fit under the roller and iron both sides this way. However this often results in "cat whiskers" as controlling several lenghts of folded material as it is being fed into the ironer can be difficult. Often what happens is the different layers get out of synce and one ends up with creases and fold marks where they shouldn't be.

Some of the first ironers sold for home use had huge rollers, much like commercial ironers. They were designed to iron large items of flatwork such as sheets either totally flat, or folded once. Obviously one needed quite a large space for such beasts, and they were often found in large estates or grand homes with either basements or large laundry rooms. Every now and then one finds such things on eBay or other sales. Often they come from old homes that have been purchased and the new owners find them in basements and so forth.

My small Ironrite has a roller of only about 17", which means even some pillow slips are too wide, and sheets are out of the question.

Have seen HUGE ironers in European homes, both modern and vintage that can easily do large sheets, and take up a good portion of the room. However such units run on 1 or sometimes 2 220v power, something easily found in say German homes, but not those in the United States.

Much as one loves one's ironers, can easily do large amounts of big flatwork on my ironing table, which is about 6'x3'.

Indeed many housewives gave up on their ironers as it was felt there was too much effort required for the results. Especially with models of the Ironrite and other ironers, with two different thigh controls required to operate. Just too much fiddling around to coordinate.
 
I got it.

It's a model 88. It has a dark wood cabinet. It heats up (slowly, as intended I assume) and the mechanism works smoothly without any bad noises. It has the 2 knee switch operation and both knee pedals are working and in proper adjustment. It has the original cloth covered cord which works fine for now, but I will be inspecting it much more closely for wear before using it regularly (Elginkid sometimes refers to me as the "Cord Nazi" because of my distrust of much old wiring).

It has the original manual, which I am looking through now for tips on care and feeding. The manual also has some handwritten service information as follows:

Delivered: Oct. 30, 1951
Oiled:
4-26-1957
1-24-1961
11-19-1964
Permanently greased: 8-4-1967

Should I look into undoing the 1967 permanent grease lube job and turning it back to oil lubrication or should I let it be for now since it seems to be working as intended?

The instruction book has an accessories page which shows the Ironrite Health Chair (dammit, it didn't come with one of those! Oh well, it wouldn't match the wood cabinet anyway). The chair shown lacks the stretcher between the legs that the later model chairs apparently had. It also shows replacement roll covers, and it says the original is washable! It also shows roll pad replacements and the Lite-Site ironing lamp.

I do not have the lamp, but it is pictured in the book. It mounts to the table to the left side of the ironer. It comes straight up behind the roller drive between the motor and the roll. It has a gooseneck and can be adjusted to light the work. It looks like a pretty cleaver design and I may have to eventually track one down.

The legs and cover are wood, but the machine itself is metal (and HEAVY!). All metal is finished in a textured brown paint (I wish it was baked on porcelain). I was able to fit it into my Saab hatchback by unbolting the machine and cover from the lega ad lifting it off the legs with help. I kept the machine upright the entire time and Elginkid (my housemate) is going to be involuntarily enslaved this evening to help me get the machine out of my car.

I am looking forward to getting to know this machine!
Dave
 
Congrats

My portable Ironrite "880" is designed to be "greased" and does not require the oil changes of other models, so guess by the 1960's Ironrite started doing this for other units as well.

In the case of my unit, since it is designed to fold down for storage, any liquid oil would simply run out, so something else had to be devised. Have only seen one can of Ironrite "grease" on eBay and that was before I purchased my unit.

Cleaning out all the grease would be a PITA as you have no way to drain the cleaning fluid and old grease out of the gear box. Oh wait, you have an older unit, so yes if there is a drain plug on the gear box you could clean things out. However would say if the thing is working fine and the grease seems ok, leave well enough alone for now. I mean unless the stuff has broken down totally into liquid....

I'd leave the grease instead of gear oil. Gear oil will have to be replaced eventually, depending upon usage of the ironer, whilst grease does not.

Yes, Ironrites like most other vintage appliances are hefty. Such things are all or mostly metal, not cheap plastic especially gears and what not.

Glad to hear the base is metal and not wood. Always wondered who on earth would design something that would hold damp and warm laundry out of wood?

Once you have the unit set up and cleaned up, run a load of small flatwork through the wash (pillow slips, napkins, etc, and hang them until damp dry. Once damp dry take down and let sit for several hours. This will allow moisture to spread evenly in case some areas have dried out. Once the linen is ready, fire up your Ironrite and follow the directions in the manual on the fist several pages regarding starting out.

You'll get used to the movements in no time.
 
If you want to put the legs back on without tipping the unit on it's side, try sliding it out of your hatchback just enough to get the first pair of legs bolted on, then slide out the rest of the machine and repeat. Once finished simply roll the unit indoors.

Just make sure your hatchback's door can withstand the weight.
 
It's inside and happy.

The consensus is that I really need a Unimatic (damn, they're expensive, so I'll have to wait!) to really make the Ironrite sing. I got the leg assembly back on, although I may replace the wheels eventually. I cleaned it up and did some wash.

I read the instructions and watched the movies online. I turned it on and let it heat up to the Cottons setting with the roller not touching the shoe (a previous owner did that and the roller cover has a nice shoe-shaped scorch mark). First, I ironed a pillow case straight from the Maytag A206 with its 618 rpm spin. It took 2 or 3 passes to dry the pillowcase thoroughly but it made a very flat pillowcase. I think with less moisture, the Ironrite will perform even better.

I tried a shirt, but that is where I hit the learning curve and hit it hard. I shattered 2 buttons on the shirt, so shirts will take a lot more practice. Pants went a bit better, at least the legs did, but that will take a lot more practice too. I didn't expect to master this thing overnight, but I pretty much have to re-learn how to iron.

Also, getting the knack of the knee pedals takes some doing. Fortunately, I drive a stick shift and have at least some coordination. I wish I had the Ironrite Health Chair as the chair I am using is a bit too tall for my operational comfort. Also, the knee pedals are a bit too close together for my knees. Nevertheless, I shall keep on Ironing.

If any Ironrite experts are going to be passing through Cincinnati, I would gladly accept a lesson or 3.

Pics to come,
Dave
 
1. Laundry must be much drier than when one is hand ironing. This is especially true because the Ironrite's roller runs quite fast. If item is too wet, as you have found out, it will have to go through several times.

Yes, final high speed spin of either a front loader or Unimatic would help. Otherwise line dry until barely damp (as posted above), or even tumble dry until just damp. OTHO one could simply do it the old fashioned way and allow things to dry, then sprinkle, roll up and allow to evenly damp, but that is another art to learn.

2, Yes, the whole two lever bit is quite much to learn, and again probably one of the reasons so many women gave up on the Ironrite. IIRC, the last few models produced,such as the 95 and 880 went with single lever controls.

3, I use an height adjustable chair that can be lowered way down. One can purchase special stools/chairs just for ironing as well, but any low chair/stool will do.

4, Remember when ironing shirts, embroideries and such they must be face UP, so they are pressed into the roller, not pressed down against the shoe. Buttons cracking can also mean that the padding may need to be fluffed or replaced.

5, Get into the habit of using the emergency release to totally back the roller away from the shoe when finished ironing day. This way there will be no chance of it coming into contact with the shoe whilst heating at next use. It also gives one a chance to wipe down the ironing shoe before starting the next load.

For the record, it took many countless hours of practice to do anything other than flatwork on an ironer. Even today with Miele and other modern versions of rotary ironers, a bulk of what is done is flatwork. Problem with shirts and other wearing apparel is that one is ironing in creases with an ironer, and mistakes are difficult to correct, if at all possible. Some men are very particular about their shirts and sleeves with "railroad tracks" (two or more crease lines along the sleeve), and other obvious signs of poor ironing wouldn't be welcomed.

Keep up the good work!

L.
 

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