Never had to work on mine. Know something about working on washers in general but not enough to talk you through it. Do you have a voltmeter/ohmmeter? The path is from the line, through the timer, through the safety/door switch, to the motor. May not necessarily go in that order, you have to follow the wires. Quite often there was a schematic inside the rear cover, if yours does and if that helps you.
That was a fairly special motor, that was not harmed (shortterm) by a stall condition. That's why no transmission is needed. It may utilize a capacitor, which tend to fail with age. Without it, the motor won't start. All you'd need to do is match the value printed on the capacitor, it doesn't have to be the "exact factory" part.
It had a tub brake so it is hard to tell if the motor is free with the lid open. You could unscrew the lid and lower the hinge to the 'closed' position to confirm it's able to rotate by hand.
If I were in the PacNW I'd come help you with it just for the joy of seeing it operate.
