What's the deal with microwaves rusting so fast?

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superocd

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I've been through probably 10 microwaves since I moved out on my on for college. If they don't fail (loud sparking sound with scorch smell, probably bad transformer), they rust.

I've learned that Galanz makes most of the countertop microwaves in the world. From Hamilton Beach to GE to Magic Chef to Oster...yada yada. They are very prone to rust and component failure. I think LG, Samsung and Panasonic are the only ones that make their own.

I bought a Panasonic two years ago, thinking it would last 10 years with no drama. It still works, but the metal frame on the inner door has started to rust. I've always propped the door open if I've warmed up anything that puts off moisture. I don't use harsh chemicals to clean, only 409 and hot water.

The actual oven cavity hasn't rusted (yet), something that has happened on almost every other oven I've had (except for a Samsung, which had a transformer problem, and a Whirlpool OTR, which I bought new to replace a Frigidaire OTR original to the house, then soon changed mind and installed a 600 cfm hood).

What gives? Am I hard on microwaves or is anyone else having to put up a microwave that rusts and/or blows up?
 
Quick way to tell if it's made by Galanz

Look at the "indentations" on the top left and right of the opening into the oven cavity. If it has these, it's made by Galanz, no matter the make, model, size, color, power, etc. I'm not sure about the stainless (probably fake?)but their painted cavities are very prone to rust.

Also, if the microwave doesn't rust first, it will probably fail and start sparking (bad transformer or magnetron).

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You need a real Microwave Oven

One with a 30+ year track record, all stainless steal interior, bottom feed energy system, dedicated cavity vent, even heating, no burn/splatter, oversized parts and 100% serviceable. Base model is a steel at only $300.

BOL:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074RCGYL...lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw&smid=A2BR8O3P4BCKQU

MOL:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002P6FKZ...lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw&smid=A2BR8O3P4BCKQU

TOL:

https://www.amazon.com/Sharp-Medium...mzn1.fos.2b70bf2b-6730-4ccf-ab97-eb60747b8daf

There are several imitations of this model but none have a track record. Some lack the bottom energy feed system. Others lack the durability. Panasonic (last picture) makes a similar performing model however it is porcelain on steal like most residential models. Midea and some Amanas run the fan after cooking is over but still lack the direct vent system.

The Sharp commercial series offers everything a user could both want and need in a microwave without making compromises. Or put more succinctly every other commercial microwave is a cheapened version of the Sharp commercial and ever other residential microwave is a economized imitation of a cheapened commercial unit. Sharp sets the capstone.

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Mositure

I boil peas and vegetables in my sharp all the time- fast with 1000 watts output power. Other high steam meals too. With the channeled high volume channeled air flow and dedicated direct cavity-to-room spill air vent moisture does not accumulate inside. What little steam is present on the door evaporates within 2 seconds after opening thanks to the slightly warmed door grate. I've noticed the same with all 5 sides of the cavity walls and ceramic plate- evenly warmed surface throughout enough to prevent condensation of residual steam- no cold spots. Condensation does not occur. I've also noticed no food odors when opening the door next meal unlike other microwaves.

Sharp is engineered around both passive and active cooking cavity ventilation. No other microwave oven has these features. Most other microwaves leak a bit of air into the cavity on one side of the cavity wall and then vent that same air into the interstitial space of the oven through the other wall. No serious venting or fresh air volume is taking place- most of the odor and steam is being recirculated within a closed loop between the vacuity of the external wrapper and outer walls of the cavity. The fan is only there to cool the magnetron instead of being effectively used to preserve other aspects of the oven.

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I keep a cloth handy to dry the cavity after operations that cause condensation.  I also waft the cloth inside a few times to ventilate it.

However, that doesn't address moisture that gets into the outer cabinet area through the cavity vent perforations.  Granny's circa 2007 GE countertop unit (she died in 2013) was stored in my garage for some years until I needed it.  I found some rusting when I disassembled it for cleaning.

I noticed that my new countertop unit runs the cooling fan for one minute at the start of auto-sensor functions before engaging the magnetron.  I sometimes start the Reheat function to ventilate the outer cabinet area after operations that produce a lot of moisture, cancel it at the instant the magnetron engages.
 
Mine has the same indentations - so now I know who the manufacturer probably is.

Mine's a countertop speed oven. No rust after about 10+ years of use.

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I'm seeing internal rusty microwaves interiors all over other forums. Either it's a somewhat recent build quality problem or maybe some are overcooking their food on a regular basis. I never had any microwave rust yet and never wipe the interior down except for the occasional cleaning.
 
Rust in microwave ovens

I have certainly seen Rusty microwaves sometimes you see them out for recycling or trash pick up, but for my experience with working on thousands of microwaves and customers home, it’s very seldom a problem.

I would have to think you must be living in a very humid area or maybe near the ocean to have much rust. What is the humidity and conditions like where your home is?

I have not seen any. Decrease in quality particularly I have a 21-year-old GE microwave oven that doesn’t have a speck of rust in it and of course my 1971 Amana, which is used daily, doesn’t rust

Might be helpful of post pictures, model numbers, etc.

Microwave ovens normally have acrylic enamel over steel interior. There’s only been a handful of them that have a porcelain interior. Very very rare, a few have a stainless like interior but it’s not a high-quality stainless, and it could rust very easily as well , if not treated well.

Reply number four Chet, I really glad you don’t tend to exaggerate about things ,lol. but there is absolutely nothing special about that sharp microwave oven. It is a nice simple looking control system, but it doesn’t cook any better ventilate any better, and it certainly not any better built than any other countertop microwave today, when you posted pictures of the insides of it it’s just the same microwave that you get just about anywhere same cheap little switches, thin wiring, cheap little fan, blade, etc etc.

John
 
I stand corrected

The Pansonic I mentioned in reply 2 most likely does indeed have acrylic enamel over steel interior instead of porcelain. That would be my mistake in misidentifying what should have been obvious for me. I admit when I'm wrong- I was wrong on this one.

Regarding my Sharp, I encourage you to buy and try. While not an Amana or even a JCPenney from the 80s, it still is significantly better in numerous regards. I also have yet to see or hear about any 1000 watt microwave ever built with anything but "thin" wiring. Wiring has always been sized for the current and it handles it well.
 
The GE I had a few years ago started to get rust at the seam between the back and the bottom. It had a white acrylic enamel finished interior. It wasn't too long after that it blew up. Needless to say I was very disappointed in it. The cheap Sunbeam I've had for over 4 years hasn't a speck of rust on its painted interior. If a stainless steel interior rusts, it's probably the cheap 400 series. Good quality food service equipment is always 300 series.
 
I had a Kenmore from 2003 rust in the inside of the door. It still worked fine and to be honest used it for a few years like that before replacing it. Not sure who the manufacturer was. Replaced it with a larger GE a few years ago and haven’t noticed any rust yet.

My grandmother got an Oster a few years ago that tan the fan for about 30 seconds after the timer sounded. She said it was for moisture.
 
Never had a problem with rust in a microwave.

I would never buy a microwave with only one power level. 1000 Watts is great for heating up liquids but not for reheating food. Around 600 Watts is the max. for that purpose. It’s better to reheat slower, the food stays more intact and doesn’t taste overcooked.
 
I've never had food come out overcooked, discombobulated, dried out or burned in my Sharp. Poor results come from a lack of even heating, not from exceeding 600 watts of cooking power. Consider those microwaves with multiple magnetrons at Subway/resturants which can heat food within seconds without burning it. Same principal.
 
Yikes!

Rusting microwaves!

Guess I should be oh so grateful that my 45 year old Quasar (with no rust) which broke, was brought back to life by the brilliant recommendations from the folks here! 😀

Most grateful!!!
 

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