Which Whirlpool VMW is most prone to bad bearings?

[maytaglover68]

Is it the older ones or new ones? As a repair tech, I’ve seen VMW’s of all types with bad bearings, but which one is most prone to it? Is it the stainless drum or porcelain drum type? Is it the smaller or bigger drum versions?

Is it the older or newer models that are more prone? I know on these VMW units bearings are in the Gearcase and when they fail you have to change the whole thing unlike on the older Cabrio style units.

I once took apart a gearcase of a Whirlpool WTW4950XW3 with bad bearings and I was able to see the internals of it. I don’t think I’ve tried to take apart any other gearcase. I know my own machine (WTW5000DW3) has roaring bearings now, but my friend has that same machine with no bearing issue. That was an older 2012 model where I took Gearcase apart on but the newer ones have similar gearcases.

I also had to change the splutch and shift actuator on my machine before, so Whirlpool’s not as reliable as they used to be.

I also see bad bearings on the GE units sometimes, used to change mode shifters with bad bearings a lot on HydroWaves, I also get in roaring stackables and these days I get in more roaring newer style GE’s. Less commonly I get in Midea and Samsung top loaders with bad bearings, never repaired those just scraped them but those use a clutch assembly with bearings that can wear out, but I don’t usually get those with bad bearings, but I never get LG top loaders. LG and Samsung bearing issues usually happen on front loading models from my experience.

I’ve got in several Speed Queens with bad bearings even, including one on a TC5 and I believe I encountered a TR7 with bad bearings before too. As well as TR5 and TR3, but I don’t usually get newer Speed Queens with bad bearings, but I do get them on occasions.

I looked online and these VMW machines seem to use 6006-2RS bearings.

Although online I most commonly see the models with 1st or 2nd Gen stainless steel tubs for 3.6 to 3.8 cu ft models, and another one I commonly see online with bad bearings are the porcelain tub 3.4 to 3.6 cu ft, both the one with the older balance ring and the newer one.

Whirlpool actually had three redesigns on their stainless steel drum, the original design from 2010, the second one from 2013, and the 3rd gen one from 2018. The first gen one was used from 2010 to 2013 and was the tub with the even holes, the second gen one was called the spiral spinning basket as it has the holes on the pattern, both of the VMWs with those designs were prone to bad bearings, while the newest tub variants don’t seem as prone but been getting those more lately, maybe they redesigned the gearcase at the same time as they redesigned the tub. The agitator ones, while new ones still use the 2013 tub, whirlpool seemed to redesign gearcase at the same time as online, I don’t see as many of those with bearing issue as the older ones bur I still see them.

Don’t see online results of the 4.something cu ft VMWs with bad bearings nearly as much as the smaller variants. Although I do see them for VMAX’s all the time. But I person I got plenty with bad bearings and got VMWs of all designs with bad bearings. But I do agree that some VMWs are definitely more prone to bad bearings than others.

Don’t see videos or online results of 4.2 to 4.3 cu ft VMWs nearly as much as smaller ones.

On the GE HydroWaves, what I noticed is that the stainless steel versions were significantly more prone to bad bearings than the plastic tub ones despite them using the same mode shifter, despite using same seal, not sure why, maybe because the plastic tub was lighter and reduced wear on the seal, but I’ve been seeing more plastic tub versions this year and actually have a plastic tub HydroWave (GTWP1800D1WW) with bad bearings in my junkyard, was roaring very loud on the spin cycle and I recently had a 2007 HydroWave plastic WBSR3140G0WW with bad bearings in junkyard that I’ve scraped out. Interestingly, for model Ts, this wasn’t the case, and all tub variants were equally as prone. For a while, GE machines in general were prone to bearing failure.

The newer WCI Frigidaires got bad bearings too although they weren’t nearly as prone as GE or Whirlpool. The newer transmission versions were the most prone top load Frigidaires to bearing issues.

Bearing issues are very common on the older F&P type machines too, and those used standalone bearings.

 

[combo52]

Washer, main bearing failures

Hi MTL 68, thanks for sharing your experiences with washing machine failures.

Where do you get your washing machine machines that you rebuild?

Do you ever wonder why certain machines fail more than others, I always like analyzing things I’ve always done that I like to try to figure out why things fail.

I took a course in college on statistics. It was very interesting. It helps you accurately analyze things. It’s important to first of all account for how many of each machine was built probably the most popular washing machine in United States. Is it inexpensive whirlpool top loader over the past 20 or 30 years so it would stand to reason that you’re gonna see more basic whirl pools, failing than any other machine.

People who buy inexpensive washers often don’t have a lot of money. They probably have larger families. They probably use them a lot. A lot of landlords buy them for rental properties where again they get a lot of use.

More expensive washers are usually used less than the less expensive ones, but not always of course we recently put bearings in a TR7 Speed Queen washer that was only three years old. The customer said she runs 3 to 5 loads in it a day it was still under warranty. It was done at no charge of course.

One of the advantages of our analysis of which machines fail most often is the fact that we’re working directly for the customer that owns the machine so we can tell a lot about family size and usage conditions.

I definitely see more failures of main bearings and other parts as well When the machine has a heavy mineral buildup from using cold water and two little detergent I suspect you’re gonna find people who buy the cheaper washers often and don’t have the money for good detergent or use enough of it so that’s gonna contribute too quicker failures. Our customer with the Speed Queen TR7 for example, was not only running a huge amount of laundry, but she got this idea online that you only need a tablespoon of detergent, and I think that led to the seal failure that caused the bearing to fail so early.

Interesting stuff I’m always interested in why things fail and how to keep them from failing.

I found it interesting that you’ve seen bearing failures in F& P washers. I’ve only ever seen 20 or 30 FNP washers in my life but the one thing I’ve never seen is a bearing failure so that’s interesting That you’ve seen several fail.

When you post your information, you should just keep adding it to the existing thread. That way it doesn’t get lost and people can follow what you’re doing.

John L

 

[maytaglover68]

I meant like the older Cabrio style Whirlpools, not actual F&P washers. F&P washers are not too common in the U.S.

 

[combo52]

Reply number two, that makes sense because we did see a number ofF&P
Washers around and never saw bad bearings in one even though whirlpool used licensed design details from F&P they were completely different machines no parts interchangeability whatsoever.

The overall design of the Cabrio washer was much more robust than the F&P machines however, whirlpools version had one fatal fault, and that was the shaft plating on the main shaft, and the seal and bearing design cause far too many failures, I think the main failure design was at the seal was nearly flush with the bottom of the tub, so sediment and grit could build up and damage the seal more quickly.

This was the same design flaw that ruined the Speed Queen machines in the early 80s, it wasn’t until alliance laundry systems took over and the Speed Queen top load washers were redesigned where they raised the seal up a couple inches in the center of the outer tub that made a huge difference in durability now Speed Queen does not have a big problem with it.

John L

 

[maytaglover68]

I only got in a few F&P washers but I did get one with bad bearings, however, I was referring to the F&P based Whirlpools when I said “F&P type”.

I once got in a Maytag commercial with bad bearings that was only three years old, those units use premium NSK bearings so those should last a very long time. The customer probably overloaded it since I don’t usually get the Maytag commercial with bad bearings, although the residential Whirlpool top loaders are notorious for it. Looked like the MVWP575GW0 model, was the older one as it had the 2nd generation type of tub, looked like a 2017. I believe it was 2020 when I got it in, it had roaring bearings. As much as I don’t like VMWs, that Maytag commercial must’ve been overloaded if those premium NSK bearings failed within 3 years. I also got in a GE Commercial with bad bearings before, those GE commercial machines are a scam I don’t like them, the transmission is the same as their residential machines therefore the bearing fails at a similar rate.

Right now I have a few machines with bad bearings in my boneyard, a Whirlpool WTW4800XQ4 (made on 14th week of 2013) with bad suspension rods (not bearings) which I’m going to repair But I got in a Maytag MVWC415EW2 and a Maytag MVWC416FW with bad bearings, as well as two MVWC425BW machines with bad bearings, I got many more but many more. I don’t usually do gearcases but I did recently do them on a couple older VMWs with the 1st generation tubs with bad bearings, one was the 2012 MVWC400XW4 and one was a 2010 Bravos X, I had used gearcases and decided to use them on these older VMWs. I also have in a VMAX model MVWB835DW0 Maytag with bad bearings. I got many more, I have a ton of roaring washers and that’s the most common reason with VMWs and VMAX’s get scraped, in my boneyard there’s a relatively new Whirlpool WTW4816FW3 from 2023 with bad bearings and a newer Whirlpool WTW6120HC0 from 2020 with bad bearings.

In early 2024, I got in a Maytag MVWC6230HC0 from 2020 with bad bearings, was roaring and loud. So I’m seeing on new VMWs tho, VMAXs seem even more prone. I’ve been getting in the newer style lately. In fact, I had a Maytag MVW7232HW0 with bad bearings in my boneyard and that was a 2020 machine, but that unit was scraped out, and a VMAX WTW7120HC0 with bad bearings. I also had a 2021 Maytag MVW7232HC0 with bad bearings. I’m pretty sure I also got in Maytag MVW7230HW0 and MVW7230HC0.

I’ve recently had to rebuild a 2013 Speed Queen with bad bearings. Although it wasn’t overloaded, that machine was used heavily in their family and used every day so it’s not too surprising that its bearings failed. I did do the bearing replacement on it, tho. Also, there were some occasions where I did change the Gearcase on the washer.

I got almost all whirlpools with 2nd and 1st generation tubs with bad bearings, ALL models or at least most. I got in Amanas with 2nd generation tubs with bad bearings, Whirlpool brand, Maytag brand, Kenmore, and even Crosley brand, although it wasn’t recently and I only got a few since Crosley washers aren’t as common as the other Whirlpool brands, but I believe I got in all Crosley washers with 1st and 2nd Gen tub with bad bearings at one point, I also got in all the U.S. Kenmore models with 1st and 2nd Gen tub with bad bearings before and pretty sure I got in all the Maytag and Whirlpool with the issue, the models I got were countless and I probably got in all models actually, and that was kind of a long time ago when I got those with failed bearings. I believe I got in every single one but not recently several years ago.

Most VMWs I get it I’ve experienced bad bearings on it before, I also got in many of the agitator VMWs with bad bearings, probably all the Whirlpool ones actually I got in before.

The porcelain tub models, in my experience, suspension rod failures are the most common failure but I still commonly get other fails like a splutch issue or a bearing issue. All the porcelain tub models I know I’ve got with bad bearings at one point I’m not going to say all the models since that’s a lot of machine models. But I believe I got in all models or almost all with bad bearings at one point. Including those from Roper, Kenmore, Amana, Whirlpool, Maytag, and even Crosley. As for smaller brands like Roper, Admiral, and Amana, I think I got all their VMW machines with bad bearings at one point. I

As for the stainless bigger VMWs (4.2+ cu footers) with the VMAX style tube, I’ve been seeing more bearing failure and I believe I got in all models with that tub with bad bearings at one point. Including Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag. I got in all revisions of the MVWX655DW, WTW5000DW, WTW5005KW, MVWC555DW, Kenmore 25132, and the 22352 with bad bearings at one point.

I also used to get in the older Norge/Amanatag machines with bad bearings a lot, don’t get them as much anymore with bad bearings. Been working in appliance repair since 2007.

I also used to get in GE HydroWaves and Model-Ts with bad bearings a lot, never fixed those I usually just scraped them.

 

[maytaglover68]

Maybe not ALL models and I maybe didn’t get a lot of crosley units with bad bearings but I do get many VMWs with bad bearings, but I mainly get the more popular models. I actually don’t remember if i got Crosley with bad bearings or not, maybe I did at one point, and I don’t remember the model numbers of any of the Crosley VMW units, Crosley was actually made by Maytag, but Whirlpool started making washers for them because Maytag was acquired by Whirlpool. I’ve got in most VMW models with bad bearings at one point before I’ve worked for appliances for 18 years.

Also, I’ve only got in one actual F&P washer with a bearing issue, I didn’t get multiple and F&P is rare in the U.S.

 

[maytaglover68]

Crosley isn’t a very common brand to begin with but it’s found in some mom and pop stores. I’m pretty sure people who owned those machines did get bad bearings on them for some users as they used the same parts as any other VMW.

 

[DADoES]

 
I've had/have seven F&P washers (and four topload dryers).

A SmartDrive GWL08 purchased new in 1999 (S/N 6/1999, NZ).  It passed through three other family members.  Went dead at 22yo when my nephew-and-family had it.  I didn't get to examine it before haulaway.  They said there was evidence of water in the console.  Could been a leak at the thermistor seal on the water inlet mixing chamber.  Also, interestingly, the motor board was water-cooled via a heat sink interface into the mixing chamber.  They saved the pump and agitator for me.

**An Intuitive Eco IWL12 purchased new in 2004 (S/N 6/2004, NZ).  The display panel recently became flaky, I already had a couple spare boards.

¹An EcoSmart GWL11 (S/N 4/2005, NZ) given to me by a friend who didn't want to do a repair (diverter).  I stored it for a few years, then refurbed it for my mother to use.  Changed it to an Intuitive IWL12 panel.  Taken out of service in 10/2022 for bad bearings.

**An AquaSmart WL37T26DW2 (LED button panel) (S/N 6/2009, Ohio US), bought used in 2018.  Needed clean-up and a couple repairs.  I changed it to a WL37T26C LCD touch panel.

**An AquaSmart WL26CW1 (S/N 9/2007, Ohio US), free haulaway in 2021.  Needed clean-up and several repairs.

An EcoSmart WA37T26G (S/N 4/2008, Ohio US).  Bought used in 2019.  In storage awaiting examination.

An EcoSmart WA37T26G (S/N 4/2008, Ohio US).  Bought used 12/2020.  Stored for a couple years.  Cleaned-up 10/2022 (no repairs needed) for mom to use but taken out-of-service 4/25/2025 when my sister moved in with mom and brought her machines.

**These are my "daily use" machines.

¹The only one of the seven to thus far exhibit bad bearings.

[edit for spelling error][this post was last edited: 5/8/2025-15:02]

 

[combo52]

Why clothes washers have major failures

Overloading a washer somewhat actually makes the machine last much longer. The loads are balanced better and you’re not running nearly as many loads through the machine.

If overloading caused problems, you would see it in areas like stripped out gear cases and agitators, etc., that are stripped from the shaft not in main bearings.

Using too much detergent is far better than using too little. It’s easy to see the results of using too little detergent, heavy mineral buildup that causes moisture to stay in the machine rust the outer tub, rust the basket, build up around the seals, which causes the metal to corrode and seals to fail.

A washing machine much like an automobile is going to last a certain number of years and a certain number of miles or number of loads done, we can clearly see in households where they have a full-time housekeeper that just constantly runs little loads the machines don’t last near as long as the busy household where they’re always striving to keep up and tend to pack the machine full, but only run a couple loads a week, etc. in over 50 years of active repair work we have seen very few cases were overloading caused a problem other than maybe a sock getting into an outer tub, etc., and blocking the pump, but it doesn’t cause the machine to break or fail in a serious way.

Many parts of a washing machine are not affected by the size of load water pump, timers, electronic controls, drain pumps even the motor is unaffected by overloading, almost all home machines have commercial versions that are habitually overloaded because people are spending a couple bucks every time they run it and yet those machines amazingly last about as long as ones in the home.

John L