I created a thread on how the auto dry works on the newer Whirlpool 29” top filter dryers earlier this year (also pertains to some Whirlpool dryers made in the 1980’s and 1990’s) in the deluxe forum index, I’ve been wondering what the part number is for the power dropping resistor is since I looked on various websites and can’t seem to find anything. Is it a small resistor built into the wire, or is it a separate assembly so to speak? Just wondering since I plan on trying to make my Maytag DE806 more gentle with an adjustable thermostat which can be set between 90F to 130F (L130-20F).
Whirlpool dryer power dropping resistor
- Thread starter maytag85
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Nothing more than a simple resistor:
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Technically any basic resistor will work as a voltage dropper as long as it is sized correctly.
First you need to know the listed wattage and rated voltage stamped on the timer motor itself. For this example I will use 4 watts at 120 volts. Next you will need to find the operating impedance of the motor circuit in ohms.
Resistance in ohms = (Volts x Volts / Watts)
3,600 ohms = (120 Volts x 120 Volts / 4 watts)
Knowing we need to drop 240 volts down to 120 gives us a ratio 1:1, so the resistor must be around the same impedance as the operating timer motor itself, in this case the resistor can not be less than 3,600 ohms.
(OEM manufacturers appear to add a safety factor of 105% to take into account a 240 volt supply operating near the upper bandwidth, so 3,600 ohms times 1.05 = 3780 ohms)
Second you need to find the amount of power (watts) the resistor will be dissipating by knowing the current draw of the timer motor.
Amps = watts / volts
0.03333 amp = 4 watts / 120 volts
Being a series circuit, this same current magnitude will be passing through the dropping resistor.
Power dissipated in watts = Current times Current times Resistance
P=I2R
4.1 watts = 0.03333 amps x 0.03333 amps x 3780 ohms
A 5 watt resistor rated, 3780 ohms resistor will work, however given given the environment and heat dissipation across such a small surface I typically like to over-size my resistors wattage wise. A 7 watt resistor would be my starting pick.
I like what you're doing, good luck!
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Dryer Timer Resistor WP31001484 parts - manufacturer-approved parts for a proper fit every time! We also have installation guides, diagrams and manuals to help you along the way!
www.searspartsdirect.com
Technically any basic resistor will work as a voltage dropper as long as it is sized correctly.
First you need to know the listed wattage and rated voltage stamped on the timer motor itself. For this example I will use 4 watts at 120 volts. Next you will need to find the operating impedance of the motor circuit in ohms.
Resistance in ohms = (Volts x Volts / Watts)
3,600 ohms = (120 Volts x 120 Volts / 4 watts)
Knowing we need to drop 240 volts down to 120 gives us a ratio 1:1, so the resistor must be around the same impedance as the operating timer motor itself, in this case the resistor can not be less than 3,600 ohms.
(OEM manufacturers appear to add a safety factor of 105% to take into account a 240 volt supply operating near the upper bandwidth, so 3,600 ohms times 1.05 = 3780 ohms)
Second you need to find the amount of power (watts) the resistor will be dissipating by knowing the current draw of the timer motor.
Amps = watts / volts
0.03333 amp = 4 watts / 120 volts
Being a series circuit, this same current magnitude will be passing through the dropping resistor.
Power dissipated in watts = Current times Current times Resistance
P=I2R
4.1 watts = 0.03333 amps x 0.03333 amps x 3780 ohms
A 5 watt resistor rated, 3780 ohms resistor will work, however given given the environment and heat dissipation across such a small surface I typically like to over-size my resistors wattage wise. A 7 watt resistor would be my starting pick.
I like what you're doing, good luck!
Thanks Chetlaham, hopefully I can make the dual temperatures work on my customized Maytag HOH when I tear it down for a clean8ng and lubrication next spring. Tried to get the dual temperatures to work, but wasn’t working as intended. With the power dropping resistor, will able to achieve that much more easily. Plus, can calibrate the thermostats to my liking, will probably set the low temperature to 105F to 110F, high will be set between 160F to 165F.
Found this resistor on Amazon. Will this one work as well?
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Yes, absolutely, as long as the resistance and power ratings are correct.
Regarding your dual temps, if you haven't done so already, have you considered using Whirlpool's adjustable thermostat?
I've never liked Thermostat factor settings. High is to hot for me, while delicate is to low. I've found a medium temps (around 140*F) work best and Whirlpools thermostat kit lets you fine tune that.
Regarding your dual temps, if you haven't done so already, have you considered using Whirlpool's adjustable thermostat?
I've never liked Thermostat factor settings. High is to hot for me, while delicate is to low. I've found a medium temps (around 140*F) work best and Whirlpools thermostat kit lets you fine tune that.
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I actually have an adjustable thermostat stashed away somewhere that can be set anywhere from 135F to 175F, the other thermostats I am getting can be set from 90F to 130F, will set that one to 105F or 110F to see how it’ll operate. While 105F to 110F is on the lower end lukewarm side, just want to experiment to see how the Maytag HOH will operate at those temps, already have some idea since the current thermostat is rated for 120F (L120-15). While 105F to 120F may be a little on the cooler side, just want to be as easy on clothing not to mention the machine itself, finding a replacement door gasket and felt seal is about impossible to find these days, though I have a couple of door seals stashed away and a few felt seals I made stashed away as well.
Some people would do such modifications these days to squeeze as much efficiency out of something as much as possible, and while there is some truth to that in what I am trying to do, it’s more about trying to be as gentle on things as much as possible. Items will certainly come out much cooler to the touch with 105F to 110F operating temperatures.
Less is more with the 1966 to 1975 Maytag HOH’s, don’t need super high operating temperatures to get the job done. Plus, it takes the ‘guesswork’ out since there’s no “what temperature do I choose, don’t want too high or too low”. It’s almost as though Maytag was trying to make the ‘dryer of tomorrow’ since there was one simple knob, not a bunch of other controls which can cause confusion. Sort of reminds me of the old Tex Avery cartoons from the 1950’s, “tomorrow’s television set, one simple knob”, not the exact quote, but gives you the idea.
Some people would do such modifications these days to squeeze as much efficiency out of something as much as possible, and while there is some truth to that in what I am trying to do, it’s more about trying to be as gentle on things as much as possible. Items will certainly come out much cooler to the touch with 105F to 110F operating temperatures.
Less is more with the 1966 to 1975 Maytag HOH’s, don’t need super high operating temperatures to get the job done. Plus, it takes the ‘guesswork’ out since there’s no “what temperature do I choose, don’t want too high or too low”. It’s almost as though Maytag was trying to make the ‘dryer of tomorrow’ since there was one simple knob, not a bunch of other controls which can cause confusion. Sort of reminds me of the old Tex Avery cartoons from the 1950’s, “tomorrow’s television set, one simple knob”, not the exact quote, but gives you the idea.
I like and approve your way of thinking! I to like low temps rather than high temps. Unless I am in a hurry I find low or medium heat is the way to go. It is gentler on clothing and things come out fluffier instead of over dried, scratchy and stale smelling. And of course, I like fewer knobs.
My ideal dryer would have 3 knobs: a main knob giving a 135 minute timed normal cycle with a 5 minute cool down and a 70 minute timed press care cycle with a 10 minute cool down. No temperature grading on either cycle. A heat knob with a 135*F normal temperature, ~110*F delicate, and a no heat setting. 160*F high heat setting would be ok. Lastly a push to start knob.
Simple, easy, elegant.
My current Maytag dryer is very much like that except they converted the normal portion of the cycle into a sensor dry followed by a wrinkle guard. Awful, I feel cheated and very angry about that. I'm forced to use timed dry (which used to be permanent press). Graded heat and a 10 minute cool down.
I've debated order a 8563881 Portable Whirlpool dryer timer which has a 120 minute main cycle and adapting that to my current Maytag.
My ideal dryer would have 3 knobs: a main knob giving a 135 minute timed normal cycle with a 5 minute cool down and a 70 minute timed press care cycle with a 10 minute cool down. No temperature grading on either cycle. A heat knob with a 135*F normal temperature, ~110*F delicate, and a no heat setting. 160*F high heat setting would be ok. Lastly a push to start knob.
Simple, easy, elegant.
My current Maytag dryer is very much like that except they converted the normal portion of the cycle into a sensor dry followed by a wrinkle guard. Awful, I feel cheated and very angry about that. I'm forced to use timed dry (which used to be permanent press). Graded heat and a 10 minute cool down.
I've debated order a 8563881 Portable Whirlpool dryer timer which has a 120 minute main cycle and adapting that to my current Maytag.
Whirlpool used a variable temp control / thermostat with a capillary tube (like an oven or refrigerator thermostat) on several models for some years. Perhaps one could be found for use on your DE806 with a devised mounting method for the control and capillary tube.
The P/N for the 1976 LDE7800 my family had is 348465, last revised to 279136 before discontinuation.
Whirlpool 279136 Thermostat Adjustable (AP3094107) - AppliancePartsPros.com
Thermostat adjustable 279136 / AP3094107 made by Whirlpool
Reply #7
That might work, but I’d rather reserve it for someone who’s restoring a Whirlpool or Kenmore set from the 60’s or 70’s. Plus, it would just complicate things a little. Using parts that are off the shelf and readily available is a better route to go, if something fails, can easily find a replacement.
That might work, but I’d rather reserve it for someone who’s restoring a Whirlpool or Kenmore set from the 60’s or 70’s. Plus, it would just complicate things a little. Using parts that are off the shelf and readily available is a better route to go, if something fails, can easily find a replacement.
Chetlaham, here’s another question. If I were to have my Maytag DE806 hooked up to 120v service, would the power dropping resistor work, or would I just remove it when operating on 120v? Just wondering since I’ve hooked up my Maytag DE806 for testing purposes.
240 V electric dryers with a resistor to drop time voltage
These were used on dryers with thermostatic auto dry And will not work on 120 V first of all 120 V won't give enough power to ever get the dryer hot enough for the operating thermostat to cycle and if it does, it will only give about 60 Volts to the Timer motor witch will not run the timer motor with the resistor in the circuit.
John
These were used on dryers with thermostatic auto dry And will not work on 120 V first of all 120 V won't give enough power to ever get the dryer hot enough for the operating thermostat to cycle and if it does, it will only give about 60 Volts to the Timer motor witch will not run the timer motor with the resistor in the circuit.
John
“Won’t give enough power to ever get the dryer hot enough for the operating thermostat to cycle”
Installing a thermostat that can be set anywhere from 90F to 130F, will set it to 100F to 110F. When operating 120v service, will be able to calibrate and make various adjustments, though will probably have to remove the power dropping resistor to get the timer to advance.
Same will go for 240v service (definitely will install the power dropping resistor), can even calibrate the cycling thermostat to compensate for temperature changes through the seasons.
Installing a thermostat that can be set anywhere from 90F to 130F, will set it to 100F to 110F. When operating 120v service, will be able to calibrate and make various adjustments, though will probably have to remove the power dropping resistor to get the timer to advance.
Same will go for 240v service (definitely will install the power dropping resistor), can even calibrate the cycling thermostat to compensate for temperature changes through the seasons.
The power dropping resistor will have to be removed since the timer motor would only get 60 volts when the dryer is adapted to a 120 volt supply.
@dan: In auto dry mode the timer motor electrically placed across the cycling thermostat; since the goal is to advance the timer only when the stat opens. See this schematic:
When the operating state opens, the timer motor is put in series across a 240 volt supply- hence the resistor to drop it back down to 120 volts.
@dan: In auto dry mode the timer motor electrically placed across the cycling thermostat; since the goal is to advance the timer only when the stat opens. See this schematic:
When the operating state opens, the timer motor is put in series across a 240 volt supply- hence the resistor to drop it back down to 120 volts.
@Combo- 100% agree, well said.
Now you know what I was talking about all these years. I want to see dryers with two heaters, a 1500 watt heater and a 4000 watt heater. On delicate the 4000 watt heater would be shut off, leaving only the 1500 watt heater which would prevent the dryer from ever reach 140*F. True delicate drying.
Now you know what I was talking about all these years. I want to see dryers with two heaters, a 1500 watt heater and a 4000 watt heater. On delicate the 4000 watt heater would be shut off, leaving only the 1500 watt heater which would prevent the dryer from ever reach 140*F. True delicate drying.
Chet, that has been done but the smaller element can achieve 140°F.
XXXX dryer (you guess which) has two elements, 1,400 watt and 3,600 watt. The smaller runs alone for Delicate/low 127°F and Perm Press/medium 140°F. Both run for Regular-Denim/high 149°F.
Is the exhaust clean and unobstructed? It is theoretically possible to hold temps below 140* with less heat output from the element.
I'm not quite sure what's trying to be accomplished here.
With my DE/DG 808 dryers and DG713, the lower thermostat temp options just took longer to dry the clothes with the exact same results of the higher (normal) temp ratings. The clothes did not emerge softer, with less wrinkles, or with less wear and tear. It just took longer to get dry. Are you guys drying delicate lingerie or something?
I understand longer cool down times as this de-wrinkles items...to a point (excessive times just tangles them up) and the reason I have adjustable cool down thermostats on my pre 1989 electronic control models (the DE701 has this feature built into the timer).
With my DE/DG 808 dryers and DG713, the lower thermostat temp options just took longer to dry the clothes with the exact same results of the higher (normal) temp ratings. The clothes did not emerge softer, with less wrinkles, or with less wear and tear. It just took longer to get dry. Are you guys drying delicate lingerie or something?
I understand longer cool down times as this de-wrinkles items...to a point (excessive times just tangles them up) and the reason I have adjustable cool down thermostats on my pre 1989 electronic control models (the DE701 has this feature built into the timer).
Reply #17
In a nutshell, just trying to make my Maytag DE806 franken dryer be more gentle on clothing. Going to be using an adjustable thermostat which can be set to 90 to 130F, going to set it between 100 to 110F. Since it’s not a double throw switch thermostat, going to be using a power dropping resistor since a adjustable double throw switch thermostat doesn’t exist to my knowledge.
Don’t have anything delicate per say, but do have shirts with vinyl decals on them. Usually hang them up to dry, but have to put them in either on air fluff or timed drying for 10 minutes to soften them up.
In a nutshell, just trying to make my Maytag DE806 franken dryer be more gentle on clothing. Going to be using an adjustable thermostat which can be set to 90 to 130F, going to set it between 100 to 110F. Since it’s not a double throw switch thermostat, going to be using a power dropping resistor since a adjustable double throw switch thermostat doesn’t exist to my knowledge.
Don’t have anything delicate per say, but do have shirts with vinyl decals on them. Usually hang them up to dry, but have to put them in either on air fluff or timed drying for 10 minutes to soften them up.
