Whirlpool Duet help

[jcinaz]

Hello all ;-)
I purchased a newest Whirlpool touch pad Duets in January
Washer model # WFW94HEAC0
The water level on the washer is horrible; it's not as high as I would prefer it to be. I did look at previous threads about increasing the water level and all, even went on you tube and saw the video on how to increase the water level on the machine. Here is the issue my washer is so new that when the service man came to look at the washer I was told me that the model is so new they have not been trained on it yet (go figure) The repair man replaced the pressure switch and I noticed the pressure switch is totally different from the pics on here and you tube. There is no place to make any adjustments to the pressure switch. Does anyone know how to make any other type of adjustment for the water level to be increased? Below are pics of the new models pressure switch, any advice you guys could offer would be greatly appreciated. I even had the washer exchanged for a new one yesterday thinking maybe it was the washer itself.
Any advice?

 

[jcinaz]

Here is a picture of the set

 

[logixx]

Welcome to the digital age, I guess. How much soil is left on your clothes once the cycle is over?

 

[appnut]

I have the WFW97 of this model.  First of all, what cycle are you using the most that is causing you to be dissatisfied with water level?  If you are using Normal--STOP USING THAT CYCLE IMMEDIATLY.  That cycle is what's used for the basis of the energy rating.  It uses the stingiest amount of water of any cycle.  I have used it twice at most and also used it once while empty to see how much water it added while empty compared to all other cycles.  I have nevcer used that cycle since.  I wish you had a Bulky Items cycle or Jeans cycle.  for whites, towels, and bed linens, I use the Allergan cycle.  It assures 130 degree hot water washes minimum.  And uses a generous amount of water, particularly during rinses.  I use my7 Jeans cycle for all Perm Press/Casual Work clothes, wrinkle-free cottons.  It uses a medium-speed tumble and a nice amount of water.  Since you don't have that cycle, I suggest you try the Delicate cycle with max soil selected and warm wash.  Your user guide online states the Steam Clean option is available on Delicate--it's not on my model, but I have a simlar "specialty cycle" which doers offer steam clean as an option and use that for nice things.  the steam clean is nice in that it assures a warm water wash temp even with warm water temp selected.  The steam period is very short. 

 

[mattl]

On the newer machines as Bob said in the previous post there is no known option to adjust the water level.  I have several Duets, and the oldest is adjustable, it's a pain to do, but truth be told I see no difference in cleaning ability between the adjusted older Duet and the newer ones.  I have 2 sitting side by side and I invariably will use the newer one.  I too rarely use the "Normal cycle", Bulky cycle uses almost too much water especially if I'm doing a small load, so I gravitate to Whitest Whites and Heavy duty.

 

[mark_wpduet]

Yes!

Normal is the Worst CYCLE I've heard and it's what people use the most and probably base the machine on.

I don't think these can be adjusted. The older ones like My duet can, but even that's a major challenge (for me anyway)

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[jcinaz]

Thanks guys for the information
Yeah I had noticed that the normal cycle uses very little water when washing that is why the service guy thought it was the pressure switch, then the service guy and the store manager where I purchased the set from just decided to replace the washer. I have totally stayed away from using the normal cycle all together
I usually use the Cold water wash cycle for most of my clothes except for the white’s, towels, and sheets. I have experimented and found out that what appnut advised me to try the different cycles and the water levels are much better at least you can see water in the tub as it is washing. I was just used to my Maytag front loader and how much more water it used.. I did also notice that the cycle times on this washer are much longer, but that is the result of the Energy usage requirements .
I am happy now that I know the different cycles use more water
Thanks again ;-)

 

[logixx]

Found this on washerdryerinfo.com. I think these values are based on an eight pound load.

http://www.washerdryerinfo.com/products/whirlpool-duet-wfw94hea

 

[mark_wpduet]

What's funny -

is that my Duet which is 8 years old uses the MOST water in the Normal/Causal cycle.

It actually will tumble and start filling with even more water toward the end of the cycle then drain - yet in the newer duets it's the opposite. The next time I buy a machine I'm making sure it has a bulky cycle.

 

[pierreandreply4]

other than the quick wash cycles from what i see the other c

from what i can see on the chart of this duet other than the quick wash cycle those other cycles are a complete waste of energy if i had to buy a new washer tommorow i would check for a model with a quick wash cycle as i would only use the quick wash cycle and not touch those other cycle and would set the washer to wash only in cold water witch would 1 save energy and 2 only set it to warm or hot water if i needed to other wise i would use cold water as i think 22 minute is more than engough wash time for a normal soiled load.

 

[jcinaz]

I agree a lot of the cycles are too long.... The drain and spin function alone takes 19 minutes...REALLY!!!! it goes into a spin then slows down, then speeds up again then totally stops, and starts tumbling the load, and starts all over again. This is a total waste of time and energy for this function, I know it states it is sensing the load but when it’s in fully balanced spin at high speed and to stop and start again makes no sense. My Maytag front loader (with ought the window) took nine minutes to drain and spin, with no issues...and the cycles were not as long, this whole "energy saving" functions on a lot of the new washers run way longer and in my opinion waste more energy. The service man told me the new direct drive motors ran on a DC current in order to save energy.

 

[logixx]

People get what they ask for

Part of the HE concept is to extract as much moisture as possible - that's why many spin cycles take so long. Doesn't Consumer Reports rate how much moisture is left after the spin, too?

My washer does two spin cycles during the final spin (quick spin, fluff, long spin). Reason one is because people want mega-capacity washers with super spin speed... and then install them on a second floor with no vibration issues. Only way to realize this is with uber-sensitive balance control. The other reason is that many people will go online and moan about how their super-fast front loader leaves wrinkles in their clothes. Okay, so the manufacturers add extensive fluff cycles to their spin cycles.

Alex

 

[mark_wpduet]

That is probably

the biggest annoyance I have with my Duet........The spinning. It really does tumble....slowly speed up to almost a good spin and you can tell the load is totally balanced, and it will stop...tumble then start and do it all over again.......There are times I've seen it just completely make no bones about it and slowly speed into a full spin the first time, but that's rare.......There are also those times when the load isn't balanced and it's doing the proper thing by trying to get it balanced, but most of the time, it's balanced..........

 

[DADoES]

 
There are no physical oscillation sensor switches on the Duet, leastwise not on the one I'm using.  I assume load distribution and tub oscillation is monitored by rotational feedback on the motor RPM sensor.  I've noticed that the motor (when it's engaged) controls drum rotation very deliberately.  Balance is likely monitored by the motor rotating the basket during distribution to specific points, then power is dropped and the control board checks rotational inertia as the load "falls" over.  Less inertia (no increase in speed as the load rolls) indicates balance.  More inertia (faster fall) indicates weight distribution is not balanced around the drum.  I imagine it takes numerous readings at various "fall" points to gather enough data.

Another reason for a spin ramp-up, then decelerate and redistribute is that the ramp-up pulls out some water to lessen the weight and promote better distribution balance for the final high-RPM spin.