Whirlpool WTW4816FW3: Bad control board and Lowes warranty issues

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Jerome, think 1970s-1980s Maytag with their one minute long spray rinse that produced near clear water in the deep rinse after a sudsy wash. 

 

Some loads like bulky items I think work better on deep rinse. Others like causal everyday loads and cottons I think can obtain equal rinsing results with half the water of a deep rinse.

 

Right now I'm fact finding the average rinse fill time for a full load of typical everyday clothes, taking that number and dividing by either 0.5, 0.33 or 0.25 then trying to come up with a good spray rinse sequence. I'm also researching different tub and basket perforations that could aid in spray rinsing. 

 

 

Given that spray rinsing can use less than half the water of a deep rinse, it is possible to use a warm or cool spray rinse instead of tap cold without using to much energy. IMO warm rinsing is where the real magic happens relaxing fibers increasing detergent carry away further reducing water consumption while leaving user with warm, fresh, garments that are east to handle while drying faster. In fact Whirlpool has even offered warm rinsing on their direct driver resource saving spray rinse washers.

 

 

I honestly would not mind seeing modern top-loads and their iterations with a reasonable 30/70 spray rinse on most of their cycles.
 
Jerome, I 100% believe you. There are many, many individuals who had and are having very poor luck with HE wet nap wash state impeller machine. It is of my belief there are way, way WAY more folks chastising HE machines than the internet currently shows with all the censorship and biased moderation going on outside of AW.org. 

 

 

 

If you really want to get results out of the top load concept while using the same amount of water as a front load go with a Calypso or Maytag Neptune dual impeller washer. Both were realistic attempts at vertical HE washing and they did their job remarkably well.  
 
As much as I dislike using HE top loaders, they definitely do work. My grandfather has one and as long as I put in smaller loads, it gets the job done. I was first introduced to a HE top loader from these two videos back in like 2010 when I first learned to clean out the outer bag from my grandparent's (now mine) Kirby G4 vacuum in their (now mine) Kenmore 90 Series washer. Again for a small load like that, I think it does fine for what it is. I have no plans on owning a HE top loader but if I ever did, I'd get the same Kenmore Oasis as this person. I just really like the looks of it. I think from my understanding, they also make one with an agitator as well.



 
 
<blockquote>I have no plans on owning a HE top loader but if I ever did, I'd get the same Kenmore Oasis as this person. I just really like the looks of it. I think from my understanding, they also make one with an agitator as well.</blockquote> KM Oasis models are long discontinued.  They were initially based on Fisher & Paykel's floating basket design, along with the WP Cabrio and MT Bravos.  The VMW and VMAX platforms replaced it.  I don't know if there were any Oasis-labeled models produced of those designs.
 
I'm aware the Oasis is discontinued. But there's always the used market where I'm sure one would pop up here and there over time. Still though, I don't have plans on getting one unless if I had the space for collecting.
 
ryner1988 said:
Post subject basically says it all. After several weeks of my Whirlpool washer acting somewhat strangely, last weekend it exhibited enough of a weird behavior that I filed a claim through Lowes to have the machine serviced (my manufacturer warranty just ran out, so I'm stuck dealing with the extended contract through Lowes, which has been...pretty different). The washer would continuously run the drain pump after the cycle ended, even if I canceled the cycle. The only way to make it stop was to unplug the machine. In addition, most cycles would not spin. I could only get it to spin on the Rinse/spin cycle.

Surprisingly, technician appointment went smoother than most people report with this service contract. Problem is, the man diagnosed a bad controlboard and said the part needed to be ordered and that he would be back to install it when that happened. Inconvenient, but fine enough.

Now here's where things get interesting. This afternoon, I receive anEGift card in my emailfrom Lowes for the cost of the washer, plus tax. I did not ask for a replacement, I wanted a repair. My only guess is that since it was the control board, they deemed the cost of labor and the part comparable to a new machine? Should I try to fight this and get the washer repaired, or should I just call it a loss and get something else?

Also, a note of caution to Eddie/ea56 or anyone else who loves these washers. Apparently, this newest batch of this particular model is plagued by this control board issue. It's not uncommon for them to fail in just over a year, and it's pretty much the exact issue I'm having. I'm not sure if the quality control has gone down since this machine is now only sold through Lowes or what, but if you go on their website and look at reviews, you'll find many stories like mine. It's unfortunate, because they really are good performers, and apparently at one time, this control board problem wasn't as prominent, as evidenced by the fact that Eddie has owned his for nearly 6 years. It must be just this latest itteration of the 4816, as I don't see the same type of bad reviews on other VMW machines when I look.

So here's my real question. If I don't fight this, and just get something else, should I try again with the 4816, or get another model entirely from a different manufacturer, and if so, what would that be? Since I have over $500 to use on something new, I can pay the difference if I have to in order to get something better, even if it is more expensive.

Some advice would be really appreciated. This situation is honestly pretty stressful, I did not want to be here again.

Ryne
Click to expand...
I ordered a new control board online and installed it myself...washer works fine. However Whirlpool still owes me an updated (Rev B) control board installation. Technician said control boards are on backorder - indefinitely!
 
mosty modern washers these day no matter the brand or that its a topload or frontload depending on model take for exemple the speedqueen tc 5 to have a normal deep rinse on the normal eco cycle you need to have extra rinse selected and if i take my curent washer maytag mvw6230hw2 on quick wash cycle it will do 2 sometime 3 spray rinse if extra rinse is selected before doing a deep rinse with extra rinse on
 
combo52 said:
Possible bad control problem

Now you're getting somewhere take the $500 credit use it for things you really need

A brand new board from whirlpool is $158 a rebuilt one from core centric is $99 with a one-year warranty and you can take a chance on a used one for $24 on eBay.

The board is not hard to change. I just changed one today on an eight year-old Maytag that had a different problem and I bought one from eBay for the customer for 50 bucks. Worked great.

Board part number is W11603810

I dare say you can do it yourself by feel all you need a quarter inch nut driver a putty knife, it may be a needle nose pliers.

John
Click to expand...
Yes, I found a replacement control board online... installed it myself and washer works fine. However, there's been a 2nd revision to the control board (Rev B) and the control boards sold online are Rev A.

The visually noticeable difference between circuit boards the original board and Rev A is a different capacitor. Rev B certainly has a significant change as well.
 
ryner1988 said:
Post subject basically says it all. After several weeks of my Whirlpool washer acting somewhat strangely, last weekend it exhibited enough of a weird behavior that I filed a claim through Lowes to have the machine serviced (my manufacturer warranty just ran out, so I'm stuck dealing with the extended contract through Lowes, which has been...pretty different). The washer would continuously run the drain pump after the cycle ended, even if I canceled the cycle. The only way to make it stop was to unplug the machine. In addition, most cycles would not spin. I could only get it to spin on the Rinse/spin cycle.

Surprisingly, technician appointment went smoother than most people report with this service contract. Problem is, the man diagnosed a bad controlboard and said the part needed to be ordered and that he would be back to install it when that happened. Inconvenient, but fine enough.

Now here's where things get interesting. This afternoon, I receive anEGift card in my emailfrom Lowes for the cost of the washer, plus tax. I did not ask for a replacement, I wanted a repair. My only guess is that since it was the control board, they deemed the cost of labor and the part comparable to a new machine? Should I try to fight this and get the washer repaired, or should I just call it a loss and get something else?

Also, a note of caution to Eddie/ea56 or anyone else who loves these washers. Apparently, this newest batch of this particular model is plagued by this control board issue. It's not uncommon for them to fail in just over a year, and it's pretty much the exact issue I'm having. I'm not sure if the quality control has gone down since this machine is now only sold through Lowes or what, but if you go on their website and look at reviews, you'll find many stories like mine. It's unfortunate, because they really are good performers, and apparently at one time, this control board problem wasn't as prominent, as evidenced by the fact that Eddie has owned his for nearly 6 years. It must be just this latest itteration of the 4816, as I don't see the same type of bad reviews on other VMW machines when I look.

So here's my real question. If I don't fight this, and just get something else, should I try again with the 4816, or get another model entirely from a different manufacturer, and if so, what would that be? Since I have over $500 to use on something new, I can pay the difference if I have to in order to get something better, even if it is more expensive.

Some advice would be really appreciated. This situation is honestly pretty stressful, I did not want to be here again.

Ryne
Click to expand...
I've been in same boat, my Whirlpool (2 yrs old in April) started to act weird in March, when I came home after being gone all day and found it running, lights off (had not used it for a week). I was able to fool it a few times but week to week it got worse, a struggle to get it into a wash mode and finally it was just stuck with the pump running, even after being unplugged for days. I thankfully had (begrudgingly) paid for an additional extended warranty and managed to get a service person out within about a week of scheduling. After I got thorough explaining he didn't even try to test it, telling me my info was correct & that it was a "world-wide" problem with nearly all top loader Whirlpool brands. Bad news, of course, was the back order of the main board. He put the order in that day (was late April) and I just got a call last week that the part was in, so now waiting for the Jun 9th service appt. What's comical is my Whirlpool circa 2006 machine is still running fine at my sister's. I will keep this one once it's fixed but the whole thing gives me heartburn thinking I may be stuck replacing it entirely in the not too distant future.
 
wyattphx said:
I've been in same boat, my Whirlpool (2 yrs old in April) started to act weird in March, when I came home after being gone all day and found it running, lights off (had not used it for a week). I was able to fool it a few times but week to week it got worse, a struggle to get it into a wash mode and finally it was just stuck with the pump running, even after being unplugged for days. I thankfully had (begrudgingly) paid for an additional extended warranty and managed to get a service person out within about a week of scheduling. After I got thorough explaining he didn't even try to test it, telling me my info was correct & that it was a "world-wide" problem with nearly all top loader Whirlpool brands. Bad news, of course, was the back order of the main board. He put the order in that day (was late April) and I just got a call last week that the part was in, so now waiting for the Jun 9th service appt. What's comical is my Whirlpool circa 2006 machine is still running fine at my sister's. I will keep this one once it's fixed but the whole thing gives me heartburn thinking I may be stuck replacing it entirely in the not too distant future.
Click to expand...
I replaced the original control board with a Rev A...washer runs fine. Then I scheduled service with Whirlpool to replace the control board with the latest Rev B.
 
pierreandreply4 said:
i would suggest you go with the speed queen tc5

If you have to replace your washer i would look into the speed queen tc 5

https://speedqueen.com/products/top-load-washers/tc5003wn/ or the maytag commercal grade non electronic washer https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ma...5437?msockid=0ff0dd6014916df43ea0cebd15aa6c04 rayner1988
Click to expand...
Good advice!
It's pretty well known that Speed Queen has been a popular machine in commercial laundramats for decades.
They HAD to be built tough since they were in continual, often rough use, and laundromats relied on them for their income.
From what I know, they still use all-metal gears in their transmissions as opposed to those "plastic gears" so many have gone to today.
You're lucky to get 5 or 6 years out of them plastic mechs if you baby them.
And the controls - best to stick with good old fashioned knobs, no electronics.
 
combo52 said:
Possible bad control problem

Now you're getting somewhere take the $500 credit use it for things you really need

A brand new board from whirlpool is $158 a rebuilt one from core centric is $99 with a one-year warranty and you can take a chance on a used one for $24 on eBay.

The board is not hard to change. I just changed one today on an eight year-old Maytag that had a different problem and I bought one from eBay for the customer for 50 bucks. Worked great.

Board part number is W11603810

I dare say you can do it yourself by feel all you need a quarter inch nut driver a putty knife, it may be a needle nose pliers.

John
Click to expand...
This reminds me of a neighbor's next door issue I dealt with about 10 years ago...
They had a top-of-the-line GE Monogram dishwasher that had a faulty circuit board, and asked me to help fix the machine.
I contacted GE customer service about a new board and was told that the cost would be $549!
WHAT!
I demanded that they level with me, when I told them there were no diamonds, rubies, or gold in a small relay board with a couple of transistors and IC's.
So why the bloated ripoff price?
One could buy a WHOLE new machine for that rediculous price!
The woman put me on hold, and in a few minutes gave me a price of $149 plus shipping.
That finally fixed the dishwasher..... pray it lasts.
GE has gotten greedy, as have many manufacturers these days.
 

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