era
I come from an era where the normal cycle did a real deep rinse.
I come from an era where the normal cycle did a real deep rinse.
I ordered a new control board online and installed it myself...washer works fine. However Whirlpool still owes me an updated (Rev B) control board installation. Technician said control boards are on backorder - indefinitely!Post subject basically says it all. After several weeks of my Whirlpool washer acting somewhat strangely, last weekend it exhibited enough of a weird behavior that I filed a claim through Lowes to have the machine serviced (my manufacturer warranty just ran out, so I'm stuck dealing with the extended contract through Lowes, which has been...pretty different). The washer would continuously run the drain pump after the cycle ended, even if I canceled the cycle. The only way to make it stop was to unplug the machine. In addition, most cycles would not spin. I could only get it to spin on the Rinse/spin cycle.
Surprisingly, technician appointment went smoother than most people report with this service contract. Problem is, the man diagnosed a bad controlboard and said the part needed to be ordered and that he would be back to install it when that happened. Inconvenient, but fine enough.
Now here's where things get interesting. This afternoon, I receive anEGift card in my emailfrom Lowes for the cost of the washer, plus tax. I did not ask for a replacement, I wanted a repair. My only guess is that since it was the control board, they deemed the cost of labor and the part comparable to a new machine? Should I try to fight this and get the washer repaired, or should I just call it a loss and get something else?
Also, a note of caution to Eddie/ea56 or anyone else who loves these washers. Apparently, this newest batch of this particular model is plagued by this control board issue. It's not uncommon for them to fail in just over a year, and it's pretty much the exact issue I'm having. I'm not sure if the quality control has gone down since this machine is now only sold through Lowes or what, but if you go on their website and look at reviews, you'll find many stories like mine. It's unfortunate, because they really are good performers, and apparently at one time, this control board problem wasn't as prominent, as evidenced by the fact that Eddie has owned his for nearly 6 years. It must be just this latest itteration of the 4816, as I don't see the same type of bad reviews on other VMW machines when I look.
So here's my real question. If I don't fight this, and just get something else, should I try again with the 4816, or get another model entirely from a different manufacturer, and if so, what would that be? Since I have over $500 to use on something new, I can pay the difference if I have to in order to get something better, even if it is more expensive.
Some advice would be really appreciated. This situation is honestly pretty stressful, I did not want to be here again.
Ryne
yes it's a safety issue!Running the pump continuously is a flood fault. It should time-out and stop if left running long enough.
Yes, I found a replacement control board online... installed it myself and washer works fine. However, there's been a 2nd revision to the control board (Rev B) and the control boards sold online are Rev A.Possible bad control problem
Now you're getting somewhere take the $500 credit use it for things you really need
A brand new board from whirlpool is $158 a rebuilt one from core centric is $99 with a one-year warranty and you can take a chance on a used one for $24 on eBay.
The board is not hard to change. I just changed one today on an eight year-old Maytag that had a different problem and I bought one from eBay for the customer for 50 bucks. Worked great.
Board part number is W11603810
I dare say you can do it yourself by feel all you need a quarter inch nut driver a putty knife, it may be a needle nose pliers.
John
I've been in same boat, my Whirlpool (2 yrs old in April) started to act weird in March, when I came home after being gone all day and found it running, lights off (had not used it for a week). I was able to fool it a few times but week to week it got worse, a struggle to get it into a wash mode and finally it was just stuck with the pump running, even after being unplugged for days. I thankfully had (begrudgingly) paid for an additional extended warranty and managed to get a service person out within about a week of scheduling. After I got thorough explaining he didn't even try to test it, telling me my info was correct & that it was a "world-wide" problem with nearly all top loader Whirlpool brands. Bad news, of course, was the back order of the main board. He put the order in that day (was late April) and I just got a call last week that the part was in, so now waiting for the Jun 9th service appt. What's comical is my Whirlpool circa 2006 machine is still running fine at my sister's. I will keep this one once it's fixed but the whole thing gives me heartburn thinking I may be stuck replacing it entirely in the not too distant future.Post subject basically says it all. After several weeks of my Whirlpool washer acting somewhat strangely, last weekend it exhibited enough of a weird behavior that I filed a claim through Lowes to have the machine serviced (my manufacturer warranty just ran out, so I'm stuck dealing with the extended contract through Lowes, which has been...pretty different). The washer would continuously run the drain pump after the cycle ended, even if I canceled the cycle. The only way to make it stop was to unplug the machine. In addition, most cycles would not spin. I could only get it to spin on the Rinse/spin cycle.
Surprisingly, technician appointment went smoother than most people report with this service contract. Problem is, the man diagnosed a bad controlboard and said the part needed to be ordered and that he would be back to install it when that happened. Inconvenient, but fine enough.
Now here's where things get interesting. This afternoon, I receive anEGift card in my emailfrom Lowes for the cost of the washer, plus tax. I did not ask for a replacement, I wanted a repair. My only guess is that since it was the control board, they deemed the cost of labor and the part comparable to a new machine? Should I try to fight this and get the washer repaired, or should I just call it a loss and get something else?
Also, a note of caution to Eddie/ea56 or anyone else who loves these washers. Apparently, this newest batch of this particular model is plagued by this control board issue. It's not uncommon for them to fail in just over a year, and it's pretty much the exact issue I'm having. I'm not sure if the quality control has gone down since this machine is now only sold through Lowes or what, but if you go on their website and look at reviews, you'll find many stories like mine. It's unfortunate, because they really are good performers, and apparently at one time, this control board problem wasn't as prominent, as evidenced by the fact that Eddie has owned his for nearly 6 years. It must be just this latest itteration of the 4816, as I don't see the same type of bad reviews on other VMW machines when I look.
So here's my real question. If I don't fight this, and just get something else, should I try again with the 4816, or get another model entirely from a different manufacturer, and if so, what would that be? Since I have over $500 to use on something new, I can pay the difference if I have to in order to get something better, even if it is more expensive.
Some advice would be really appreciated. This situation is honestly pretty stressful, I did not want to be here again.
Ryne
I replaced the original control board with a Rev A...washer runs fine. Then I scheduled service with Whirlpool to replace the control board with the latest Rev B.I've been in same boat, my Whirlpool (2 yrs old in April) started to act weird in March, when I came home after being gone all day and found it running, lights off (had not used it for a week). I was able to fool it a few times but week to week it got worse, a struggle to get it into a wash mode and finally it was just stuck with the pump running, even after being unplugged for days. I thankfully had (begrudgingly) paid for an additional extended warranty and managed to get a service person out within about a week of scheduling. After I got thorough explaining he didn't even try to test it, telling me my info was correct & that it was a "world-wide" problem with nearly all top loader Whirlpool brands. Bad news, of course, was the back order of the main board. He put the order in that day (was late April) and I just got a call last week that the part was in, so now waiting for the Jun 9th service appt. What's comical is my Whirlpool circa 2006 machine is still running fine at my sister's. I will keep this one once it's fixed but the whole thing gives me heartburn thinking I may be stuck replacing it entirely in the not too distant future.
Good advice!i would suggest you go with the speed queen tc5
If you have to replace your washer i would look into the speed queen tc 5
https://speedqueen.com/products/top-load-washers/tc5003wn/ or the maytag commercal grade non electronic washer https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ma...5437?msockid=0ff0dd6014916df43ea0cebd15aa6c04 rayner1988
This reminds me of a neighbor's next door issue I dealt with about 10 years ago...Possible bad control problem
Now you're getting somewhere take the $500 credit use it for things you really need
A brand new board from whirlpool is $158 a rebuilt one from core centric is $99 with a one-year warranty and you can take a chance on a used one for $24 on eBay.
The board is not hard to change. I just changed one today on an eight year-old Maytag that had a different problem and I bought one from eBay for the customer for 50 bucks. Worked great.
Board part number is W11603810
I dare say you can do it yourself by feel all you need a quarter inch nut driver a putty knife, it may be a needle nose pliers.
John