Worst install EVER

[johnb300m]

Today I decided to buy and install an InSinkErator Evolution "space saver" disposal.

It looks great, compact, 5/8hp motor with the new GrindShear ring.

I figured the install would take me 2 hrs tops with plumbing, mounting and rewiring some stuff since there's no electrical work for a disposal.

First off, I couldn't even get my old strainer basket out. The nut was fused somehow to the little bowl. I struggled with it for a half hour! I eventually tried the left side this time, thinking the disposal will go over there. I nearly shit my pants when that nut was fused too!

SO back to Lowe's I go. I talk to the plumbing guys and they have no idea. They recommended getting the largest channellocks I can, with some Pb penetrating fluid. I tried that and eventually got both of them off. I had to do both of them due to all the struggling, the putty seals were shot.

Great, plumbing's solved, on to electric. The only electric hookup under the sink is a junction box for the dishwasher and a power outlet on the cabinet next to the dishwasher. So I figured at the store earlier I'd wire up the box with a single switch, single outlet receptacle. So I start wiring stuff up.
I try a couple configurations according to the instructions. First my nifty little IDEAL circuit tester says I have an open neutral. So i figure I screw the cabinet outlet and just wire up the new disposal outlet.

I then go to drill my hole in the stainless steel sink. Cuz the idiot house people I'm renting from, got a sink with only one port for a sprayer. It's an island sink so no wall switch. So I got InSinkErator's countertop air activated switch. The guy at Lowe's says I need a carbide blade hole saw to get through the stainless.
Mind you all I have is a 7.2 volt Black and Decker cordless drill.
I was able to get the pilot hole and maybe 1/32 of an inch through the stainless, but the drill started to get weak and the hole saw smokin' up.

By this time the project has already taken 4 hrs. and I've not had dinner. I'm too mad and determined to eat anything. I figure I have a couple things I need to do. Decide to just hook up the dishwasher drain and call it a night.

OH but wait, I can't hook up the dishwasher drain, because the installers cut down the drain tube to the smallest step and it won't fit over the disposal port!

All this bullshit for a F&*^$ng disposal...

So an electrician I will have to call to get this wiring correct. I think I'll have to borrow a better hole saw and electric drill from work.

What made a completely miserable night somewhat worth it by a fraction was powering up the unit. It purred like a kitten. Literally, it's so silent, just a soft electric hum. When all this shit is over, I can't wait to see what this machine does to food.

Night folks...

 

[frigilux]

What a nightmare! This is why I never try to do these things myself. Consider it a character-building experience. Just keep thinking of how great it will be when it's finally finished. Good luck!

 

[MikeS]

Sorry To Hear Of Your Woes

I'm truly sorry to hear about your woes, John. Right now, I'm also considering buying the same ISE Evolution disposal (my old "builders special" has finally given up the ghost. So my next decision is: do it myself, or pay someone to install it. I want to do the work myself, and I know I can get it done if I don't hurry the process. But it could also lead to problems. I'll think about it a little more before I head to Lowes. Good luck with the work!

 

[johnb300m]

GUYS! It's working!
It's so freakin' beautiful....and quiet.

Mike, since you already have a disposer you're replacing, replacing it with this ISE will be a cakewalk. All my previous disposer installs have been replacements. This was my first "virgin" install....which I will never do again.

I think you'll love this SpaceSaver disposer as much as I do.
Good Luck!

 

[frigilux]

Yay! Congratulations. Now you just have to gather the contents of your refrigerator and start stuffing*LOL*.

 

[sudsmaster]

Isn't plumbing fun?

:-(

 

[neptunebob]

Perhaps you needed some more parts

It sounds like maybe you may have needed a new sink and new dishwasher drain tube. I have found that when doing a job like this - you often need more parts than you think. Mike, if you plan to do something like this, plan to buy perhaps a new sink, new tube, new drain trap, and if there is not a switch set up already, it may actually be simpler to run a line from the breaker panel. Some powerful disposals may require their own line.

 

[johnb300m]

Some photos of the install

Made some thai tonight so I had some scraps to throw down. this disposer is many times quieter than the old Badger1 that was in my last apartment. It ate a bell pepper top and shrimp tails in a hurry.

enjoy the shots

 

[johnb300m]

notice the chrome air activated switch. It was fun drilling through the sink [rolls eyes]

 

[johnb300m]

here she is in all her glory

 

[johnb300m]

this is the air switch module

One thing that is very neat about InSinkErator is they used all IDEAL hardware.

http://www.idealindustries.com

 

[mayken4now]

Berry Berry Berry cool. Great, you got it.

That's why I have the business I do.

Folks get into this type of thing all the time.

Steve

 

[johnb300m]

Ha. I'm about to keep your kind busy tomorrow Mr. Pensacola.
I'm having an electrician check my wiring. thought i have the disposal wired properly, the outlet on the other side of the dishwasher no longer has power.

 

[sudsmaster]

Ahem.

Sorry to be a bit late, but better late than never.

The trick to drilling stainless steel is to keep the rpm's relatively low. Basically you need to go about 1/2 as fast as you might with plain steel. Also, maintain constant pressure on the drill, with periodic lifts to clear chips. Don't let it rub without pressure - that will tend to work harden the surface and result in galling and tool failure.

Carbide tools can go twices as fast as high speed steel ones. Here is a handy general formula for steel tools on stainless:

RPM=100/tool diameter.

Thus, if you wanted to drill a 1" diameter hole, you'd want to go about 100 rpm. For a carbide too, you might be able to go 200 rpm or even faster depending on the type of carbide. Carbide is a mixed bag: go too slow, and you risk chipping the carbide. Go too fast, and it can burn up.

The type of stainless makes a difference, as well. 304 (the 18-8 type used for most flatware) can be drilled a bit faster than 316 (extra corrosion resistant 18-10 type). A sink has been heavily "worked" in the process of drawing it into the basin shape, and therefore may be considerably harder than billet stainless. Adjust tool speeds accordingly.

 

[johnb300m]

cool thanks for the info. drilling the sink was definitely an...adventure. especially with my cordless drill.
My drill's top speed was 600rpm, with the pressure and it bogging down it probably did no more than 400rpm.

it took a long while, but i eventually got through.

 

[jeffg]

John, it looks excellent. Just for future reference remember three words when trying to drill through stainless steel: cobalt hole saw. They can be found on eBay for less than ten bucks apiece.

 

[frigilux]

John--- Forgot to mention that I stayed at a Candlewood Suites in Minneapolis last weekend and they have InSinkErator disposers in each room. I was amazed at how quiet it was, even when grinding huge ice cubes. And efficient, too. When my ancient, takes-forever-to-grind, uber-loud Waste King bites it, I'm definitely going to replace it with an ISE.

 

[johnb300m]

oh just replace it now Frigilux!
LOL

in a world of shit modern appliances, I'm in awe that these modern ISE disposers are better than ever!
All US made too! With US made [IDEAL - my company] hardware: wire nuts (tm), clamps etc.

 

[frigilux]

What did you pay for your disposer, John?

I've already had to shell out $270 for a central A/C repair. The motor on the....damn it, what is the thing called that sits outside with the big fan blades...anyway, the motor that runs the fan burned out.

$75 for the motor, twice that for labor. The only good thing I can say is the serviceman arrived 45 minutes after I called. Gotta love that.

 

[johnb300m]

The disposer was 170 at Lowe's.
The air switch was 55 at Lowe's.

Then another 197 for the electrician to get the wiring to code.

Not a cheap install. I was a bit surprised....and won't be telling any friends about the electrician. haha! So SHHHHHHHH.

As for your A/C motor, that's the fan motor in the condensing unit outside.
75 bucks seems about right for those 1/3hp GE or AO Smith motors.

Those fan motors are common to go. They have to deal with alot of crap outside through the years. They're sealed too, so heat runs high in them.

 

[~sudsshane]

Hi Eugene~

"When my ancient, takes-forever-to-grind, uber-loud Waste King bites it, I'm definitely going to replace it with an ISE".

I recently had a brand new Waste King disposer installed in my kitchen sink and I just LOVE IT! It is as quiet as a mouse, and even better, I bought it off eBay for only $120.00. Jeff Parker tells me it is the top of the line model and it also has a lifetime in house warranty.

If you are interested, let me know and I can put you in touch with the guy who sold it to me. He was a pleasure to deal with and the shipping was very fast.

Let me know if I can help.

Shane

 

[~sudsshane]

Here is the model

Waste King...

 

[~sudsshane]

Here are the specs on my disposer if you are wondering:

High-speed 2800 r.p.m. Vortex powered motor. -1 HP
Corrosion proof stainless steel rust-free grinding components
Fast and easy mount system provides a no hassle installation.
Power cord and removable splash guard are included.
Front mounted reset button.
Safe for properly sized septic tanks.
Sound insulated for quiet operation.
Longest warranties in the industry demonstrates commitment to quality.
Lifetime In-Home Service Warranty and Lifetime Corrosion Warranty.

 

[frigilux]

Thanks for the info, Shane. It looks like a great disposer. I'm not looking to replace mine at the moment---I'm still counting pennies for getting my roof re-shingled and a new privacy fence put up in my back yard in August. I love my new LG dw, but it definitely put a dent in the checkbook *LOL*.

 

[johnb300m]

is this Waste King made in China?

 

[sudsmaster]

Made in China?

Yep!

 

[~sudsshane]

well-

Whether or not it is Made in China, It is still a great garbage disposer. I am very pleased with my purchase.

Where is ISE made?

 

[johnb300m]

All of ISE disposers are made in their factory in Racine, WI.

Their new Grind/Shear rings I believe are made in Racine too. The die for those was designed by Rockford Toolcraft in Rockford, IL. The stationary lugs on their top of the line disposers were also done at Rockford Toolcraft.

All of ISE's hardware, i.e. clamps, wire nuts etc. are all sourced from my company, IDEAL Industries in Sycamore, IL.

ISEs are probably the most domestically sourced disposers out there. They even wind their motors on site in WI.
Just that alone is worth their premium price to me.

ISE also makes most of the Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Emerson disposers as well.
If it looks like an ISE, nevermind the brand, then it is an ISE. All made here in the good ole' midwest.

 

[tolivac]

Another note ISE is owned by Emerson electric-one of the largest small motor makers in the US.so the motor in your ISE disposer--is an Emerson!
AC condenser unit fan motors-yes I have had to install these for of all things -radio stations.When you replace a condenser motor where the motor is under the fan--remember to put the disc shaped plastic or metal part called the "slinger" on before the fan propeller.the slinger is included with the replacement motor.Be sure not to forget it.It prevents rain and snow from falling into the motor when its stopped.When it starts the slinger throws it out of the motor.the "sealed" motor is what is called "air over"relies on the airstream from the fan to cool it.As a note NEVER run such a motor rated "air Over" unless the fan blade is installed on the motor shaft.It will rapidly overheat.and if you have a tech service your condensor motor-be sure to remind him to install the slinger.the motor won't last long without it.If the motor is ABOVE the fan-the slinger isn't required.and another note-some condenser fan motors need start-run caps-replace it anyway when you replace the motor.no sense in an old cap causing a new motor to fail.Learned these from experience.

 

[johnb300m]

ISE motors are indeed Emerson motors. That's ok, they seem to be quite durable.
I seriously can't tell a difference between a pre-Emerson ISE and a post one.
They're remarkably similar.