WP Direct Drive Clicking/tapping

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shanenc14

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Joined
Aug 10, 2018
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70
Location
Tennessee, USA
I have a WP direct drive washer that I did alot of work on after buying it used about 2 years ago. I've replaced the following:

Pump, motor coupler, clutch assembly, neutral drain assembly in gearcase, water level switch, water temp switch (w/auto water temp sensing), 3 suspension springs, 3 crescent shaped tub wear pads.

Model # Is GSW9800PW2 (Appliance 411 says mfg in 2005)

Have said all that, here is my current problem:

The washer completes all parts of the cycle, which I can watch with the lid up because I've permanently bypassed the lid switch on the machine. During draining, I hear a faint tapping sound, after the motor pauses, and restarts to spin, I can hear the exact same tapping pattern, except it's MUCH louder when spinning. Does anyone have any idea where I should start looking to attempt to solve this issue?

I'm disabled and have a very difficult time tearing things apart, and would like some pointers before I call a friend over to help me tackle this.

I think I'd scream bloody murder if I had to go back to a crappy HE machine!
 
if only during drain/spin portions of the cycle.....I would venture first into the clutch...

but if anything, I would remove the body, and try to pin point where exactly the noise is coming from.....

pump could be another issue.....something like a little pin in there rattling around...
 
Does anyone know if the clutch is actually spinning during the drain portion of a cycle? After the motor pauses after neutral drain, and restarts... the very second it restarts to being spinning the tub, I hear the tapping/clicking sound. From that second the speed/pattern of the sound does not speed up/slow down. I did however, switch the spin speed from high to low, then back to high in the middle of a spin, and the clicking pattern slows. When switching back to high speed spin, the pattern speeds up instantly, not gradually, so I'm almost positive it doesn't have anything to do with the speed in which the tub is spinning. Any additional insight before I get someone to help me tear this thing down would be wonderful. Thanks a million for helping.
 
 
The neutral drain mechanism inside the transmissions locks the spin gear against turning, so the spin gear and clutch housing do not turn during neutral drain.  The lock releases when the motor pauses between neutral drain and spin.  The spin gear and clutch housing then turn when the motor restarts for spin.  The clutch band releases the brake and turns the spin tube to rotate the basket.
 
Strange Noise On A DD Washer

I am going to bet that the motor is causing the noise, If the noise is not that bad just keep using it till it either gets too loud or the machine stops working.

 

If you really want to try fixing take the cabinet off and see where it is coming from, if it sounds like it is coming from the motor install a substitute  motor to be sure.    

 

John L.
 
Video

I've done a quick video to give a better idea of what I'm talking about. If anyone has any insight, please let me know. You can hear the thumping/knocking sound the instant the machine starts up. I will eventually get some folks over to help me remove the cabinet and see if I can possibly narrow this down; however, I wouldn't mind some expert input.

Thanks a million for all of the help.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y15meUgUTseF5yWWA
 
 
The rhythm of the "knocking" during the spin video is at the same rate as the oscillation of agitation so presumably it's coming from the transmission.

The internal oscillating parts of the transmission move the same during neutral drain & spin as they do during agitation ... only the agitator shaft itself is disengaged.

Doesn't necessarily mean there's a problem.  Maybe your transmission is just a little more prominent on the oscillation noise.

Combo52 can offer a more expert diagnosis.
 
85w-140 vs 75w-90 gear oil

When I replaced the neutral drain assembly, I drained the oil, cleaned everything with a paint brush and paint thinner, let it completely dry. By accident when I picked up the gear oil at Walmart, I grabbed 85w-140 gear oil, instead of 75w-90 that is recommended. I had the transmission already sealed up with RTV silicone before I realized that I got the wrong oil.

I posted on here about that, asking if I should drain and refill the transmission with the correct weight oil, and all of the responses said to just let it be as long as the machine is indoors, and not outside or in a garage exposed to cold temps in the winter. It's indoors, so I never bothered to change it back to 75w-90 gear oil. The neutral drain assembly and heavy weight oil has been in the machine for almost 2 years, and the machine is used to do 7-10 loads every week.

This "knocking" noise is something recent within the past week or so. I'm wondering if the heavy 85w-140 oil has done something negative to the transmission???
 
Replacement Gearcase?

@dadoes; If you wanted to stay with the traditional agitator washer of yester-year, would you be looking into getting a refurbished (~$120.00) gearcase for this machine?
 
Whirlpool DD vs New Samsung HE

At this point, as bad as the quality of newer machines are, I'm currently pulled between repair of my Direct Drive, OR getting a good deal on a Samsung HE top loader during the Black Friday sales...

Any input/opinions would be greatly appreciated.
 
well thats up to you to decide which is the better route to take....

for the most part, DirectDrives are not extinct....their all over CL, and used appliance dealers have an abundance of them.....

you could probably get a newer one for well under 200.00...and most likely with a warranty....

some used appliance dealers will sell you parts if needed...

some will even take a trade in.....
 
 
Is it actually malfunctioning, or just making the noise of concern?

If you can get a transmission for $120, perhaps do that to have it on-hand and continue to use the machine as-is until something does malfunction, on the presumption that the transmission may be the cause of the malfunction?

Or, you've already done more repairs by far than the typical consumer would be willing to tackle ... including opening and going into the transmission, so you can do that again if it becomes necessary.

Only you can decide if you want to put up the effort to keep the machine running vs. 1) finding another and perhaps doing some repairs/refurb on it, or 2) dumping it for something newfangled.  :-)
 
Strange Noise On A DD Washer

Hi I finely got you video to play, yes the noise is a transmission problem.

 

As far as new machines if you want a traditional agitator top load washer get the SQ TC5000, or the MT commercial style washer with the 5 year warranty, if you want the best all around washer get a SQ Front Load  just get a good used machine, if you like what you have put in another transmission.

 

John L.
 
Decision...

Well, with $$ being an issue, I've decided on a GE 4.5 cu ft top load model # GTW685BSLWS. It's coming today, got a pretty good deal at $548.00. Would LOVE to have a SQ FL. Maybe one day. At lease this GE has a true dual-action agitator, unlike almost all other HE top loaders; and a feature that I thought was long gone -- a warm rinse option.

I'm absolutely not going to send my WP DD to the landfill, as I will eventually put a transmission in it as a backup machine for when this GE gives up the ghost, or the repair cost will be too high to justify repair.

Wish me luck; hopefully I don't end up pulling my hair out,

Quick question: Is a Whirlpool 7.0 cu ft. dryer large enough for this washer?

 

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