YES!!! And the great thing is that it runs like a charm. The only problem is that when it has even the smallest amount of water in it the transmission leaks. Any way to solve this without totally taking it apart? The leak is circled. THANKS!!!!
YAY MAYTAG WRINGER IS FINALLY HERE!!!!!!
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Oh yes, and here is the rest of the machine:
westytoploader
Well-known member
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- Sep 4, 2004
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- 4,485
Congratulations! Looks like it works too, judging by the water on your driveway!
I had a Model N round-tub for a short time, but it was very rusty on the underside and had too many problems to list, the worst being the mud-dauber nests in the motor. I kept the wringer head and the blue agitator, but I'm still out to find another Maytag wringer!
I had a Model N round-tub for a short time, but it was very rusty on the underside and had too many problems to list, the worst being the mud-dauber nests in the motor. I kept the wringer head and the blue agitator, but I'm still out to find another Maytag wringer!
I have been reading the service manual and itt looks like I should try taking off the agitator and check the water seal, but I can't get it off, I pulled hard enough that I was able to lift the machine off of the floor. What do I do?
mayken4now
Well-known member
There is a agitator type O ring under the agitator.
Put a rope around it, lay it on it's side and give about 10 - 15 feet while the washer is blocked between two objects like two trees etc. and begin to tug, tug, tug, it will break loose. Be patient. If you have to, turn the whole thing upside down and pour water or oil in a soluable thickness under the agitator and let it sit for a day or two. It will come right off. It is the seal under the agitator is why you are seeing water on the tranny. An easy but not too cheap fix. Let me know if you need more assistance. [email protected]
Steve
Put a rope around it, lay it on it's side and give about 10 - 15 feet while the washer is blocked between two objects like two trees etc. and begin to tug, tug, tug, it will break loose. Be patient. If you have to, turn the whole thing upside down and pour water or oil in a soluable thickness under the agitator and let it sit for a day or two. It will come right off. It is the seal under the agitator is why you are seeing water on the tranny. An easy but not too cheap fix. Let me know if you need more assistance. [email protected]
Steve
westyslantfront
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- Dec 11, 2004
- Messages
- 1,718
Maytag
I have one just like yours and it washes like a charm. The wringer works well but I still put clothes through spin-x extractor before putting them in the dryer. A great machine like Maytags used to be. This picture was taken at wash-in held at my home in Tucson, Az a few days ago.
I have one just like yours and it washes like a charm. The wringer works well but I still put clothes through spin-x extractor before putting them in the dryer. A great machine like Maytags used to be. This picture was taken at wash-in held at my home in Tucson, Az a few days ago.
westytoploader
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OK Jamie, here's what I did with my Model N recently and it worked the first time. Before I too was lifting the machine off the floor by the agitator. A word of caution: using the inflatable Agi-Tamers on these agitators will fold the agitators up and ruin both, which is why I never use my Agi-Tamer on a Maytag agitator.
1. Drill a small (1/8") hole in the center of the agitator post using a sharp bit. When I did this it drilled cleanly and did not look out-of-place.
2. Pour VERY hot water (not boiling) 1 cup at a time into the agitator post and wait about 15-30 seconds.
3. After this is done, grab the agitator post and pull up HARD with a side-to-side rocking motion. If the machine comes up off the ground then that is not a problem. Also, if the agitator does move and there is a considerable space between the base of the agitator and the tub, reach under there to get more leverage and keep rocking it. It should lift right off.
4. If that doesn't work, repeat steps 2-3 until the agitator is removed. Hope this helps!
--Austin
1. Drill a small (1/8") hole in the center of the agitator post using a sharp bit. When I did this it drilled cleanly and did not look out-of-place.
2. Pour VERY hot water (not boiling) 1 cup at a time into the agitator post and wait about 15-30 seconds.
3. After this is done, grab the agitator post and pull up HARD with a side-to-side rocking motion. If the machine comes up off the ground then that is not a problem. Also, if the agitator does move and there is a considerable space between the base of the agitator and the tub, reach under there to get more leverage and keep rocking it. It should lift right off.
4. If that doesn't work, repeat steps 2-3 until the agitator is removed. Hope this helps!
--Austin
scott55405
Well-known member
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- Oct 26, 2004
- Messages
- 1,831
Wow. This must be why many women removed the agitators in their wringers after washday. That, and for cleaning the tub. Often times at estate sales, you'll see the removed agitator sitting upside down in the tub.
Does anyone know where I can get a new water seal? I called the local appliance store and they can't find it. Can I use silicon or something? Thanks!
Yay! I got the agitator off and it lloks as though there is no seal! It must have vanished long ago. THANK YOU AUSTIN!!!! I used your method and with a few hits with a soft rubber mallot it popped out! But, now what? I got the strainer off and i have no idea what to do from here. Any help is grealty appreciated!!!!!
oh, here is what I found hiding under the agitator:
Oi. Okay, found the seal, I didn't know it was under that metal washer, but again, now what? Can I apply silicon to it?
More Bad News
After I got the agitator out I began to take out all of the gut that was stil in it and as I rinsed, being careful not to get it into the shaft area, it still leaked out of the transmission. Is this an easier fix than the seal just slap some silicon around the base and let it dry? Or is this going to mean much more work and take apart the whole thing? Any help is greatly appreciated!
After I got the agitator out I began to take out all of the gut that was stil in it and as I rinsed, being careful not to get it into the shaft area, it still leaked out of the transmission. Is this an easier fix than the seal just slap some silicon around the base and let it dry? Or is this going to mean much more work and take apart the whole thing? Any help is greatly appreciated!
geoffdelp
Well-known member
Jamie ...
It doesn't sound like the water is leaking out of the power unit if indeed it still leaks when you have the center seal removed and are not getting water into the power unit. There is a black seal that goes around the center plate (where the agitator is) and the wash tub. The only way to change it is to remove the tub. There is a special wrench called a "gulmite wrench" that was used to remove the tub bolts. Sadly, it is no longer made and I don't have one. They replaced these bolts with a 1/2" head variety; they are still made.
Once the tub is removed you can easily replace the tub seal. The seal is very narrow and made out of rubber.
I'm sure Lehman's Hardware in Kidron, Ohio still carries parts for these machines. Their number is 888-438-5346. Call and ask for Kirby. He should be able to get you the center seal and the tub seal.
Also, you MIGHT try silicone between the tub and the center plate. Run a thin bead around and allow to dry thoroughly.
Do you still have the manuals I sent you? Those should have pictures of all of the parts, what their names are, and their part numbers.
Good luck and enjoy your machine!!
Geoff
It doesn't sound like the water is leaking out of the power unit if indeed it still leaks when you have the center seal removed and are not getting water into the power unit. There is a black seal that goes around the center plate (where the agitator is) and the wash tub. The only way to change it is to remove the tub. There is a special wrench called a "gulmite wrench" that was used to remove the tub bolts. Sadly, it is no longer made and I don't have one. They replaced these bolts with a 1/2" head variety; they are still made.
Once the tub is removed you can easily replace the tub seal. The seal is very narrow and made out of rubber.
I'm sure Lehman's Hardware in Kidron, Ohio still carries parts for these machines. Their number is 888-438-5346. Call and ask for Kirby. He should be able to get you the center seal and the tub seal.
Also, you MIGHT try silicone between the tub and the center plate. Run a thin bead around and allow to dry thoroughly.
Do you still have the manuals I sent you? Those should have pictures of all of the parts, what their names are, and their part numbers.
Good luck and enjoy your machine!!
Geoff
Thanks Geoff!!!! I just siliconed it, we'll see how that holds. And yes, I still have those manuals you sent me and I have been reading them and using them like crazy! They helped me to put the Wringer back together, to find a new agitator, and everything! Without them, I would still be working on the Wringer! THANK YOU!!!!!!
geoffdelp
Well-known member
Jamie ... Oh good; I'm glad the manuals helped!!
Make sure you lubricate the agitator shaft well. I see rust on the picture. Start with some lightweight oil (like 3-in-1) and let it "soak" for a while. Before you put the agitator back on, place a good film of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on the shaft; that will ensure you can get the agitator on and off.
Also, lubricate the wringer head shaft. Look through the instructions; it will tell you how to do it. Use a heavier oil than 3-in-1; more like something you would use in a car. Just put a good film on the shaft; it will keep the wringer head swinging properly.
Good luck with the silicone. I've used that before on a very old (1929) Maytag with success. I found that placing a couple of thin beads works best; allow time to dry in between coats.
Geoff
Make sure you lubricate the agitator shaft well. I see rust on the picture. Start with some lightweight oil (like 3-in-1) and let it "soak" for a while. Before you put the agitator back on, place a good film of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on the shaft; that will ensure you can get the agitator on and off.
Also, lubricate the wringer head shaft. Look through the instructions; it will tell you how to do it. Use a heavier oil than 3-in-1; more like something you would use in a car. Just put a good film on the shaft; it will keep the wringer head swinging properly.
Good luck with the silicone. I've used that before on a very old (1929) Maytag with success. I found that placing a couple of thin beads works best; allow time to dry in between coats.
Geoff
How long should I wait before doing a very small water test?
And do I really need to wait 2 days for the silicon to dry?
geoffdelp
Well-known member
Jamie ... Do the instructions on the silicone say two days? I would say at least 12 hours in between applications. Just to be sure.
What are you going to do about the center seal? Was it still quite pliable when you took it out? They used a lot of heavy lubrication on the inside of those where the spring is; is there still a lot of lubrication in it?
I keep a jar of Maytag wringer head lubricant around all the time. It is especially useful for the stem on the wringer shaft and for a "quick" repair of the center seal. You should be able to get it from your local Maytag dealer or Lehman's Hardware.
Don't forget to oil the casters with 3-in-1 oil, too.
What are you going to do about the center seal? Was it still quite pliable when you took it out? They used a lot of heavy lubrication on the inside of those where the spring is; is there still a lot of lubrication in it?
I keep a jar of Maytag wringer head lubricant around all the time. It is especially useful for the stem on the wringer shaft and for a "quick" repair of the center seal. You should be able to get it from your local Maytag dealer or Lehman's Hardware.
Don't forget to oil the casters with 3-in-1 oil, too.
