Zeppole - Make Your Own Dough or Store Bought?

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launderess

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Well after getting Thanksgiving out of the way will turn to thinking about Christmas baking.

Have alwyas love zeppole (those wonderful Italian fried pasteries), and am considering whipping up a batch or two.

It seems every Italian home has their own way, and there are more recipes than grains of sand on a beach. So am asking for tips/suggestions.

Does anyone simply purchase the ready made dough from the supermarket? It seems a simple enough pate a chox (puff pastry) dough, though others seem to be more of a chewy doughnut variety. The frying part seems no problem! *LOL*
 
Zeppole is basically only a pizza dough so you can easily make your own or if you have a friendly pizzaiolo nearby you can buy some from him... The zeppole is a vehicle for the powdered sugar, cinnamon sugar or honey that you will top it with. Here in Connecticut, I encountered something I never did in New York - topping the fried dough with tomato sauce and cheese.
 
Buy pizza dough?

Why?

It's so very easy in the processor.

"S" blade

3 cups all purpose (or better,) bread flour, stirred in canister, spooned into cup, excess swept off with straight edge.

2 level teaspoons instant yeast

3/4 teaspoon table salt

2 tablespoons olive oil, stirred with 1 cup warm (110-115F) water.

Pulse dry ingredients together, add water-oil with machine running, Knead 45 seconds. Turn off machine, let rise, pulse once to deflate. Do as you will.

Lawrence/Maytagbear
 
Lawrence,

can't stop laughing :)))

That dough made with instant yeast is a totally different beast from true bread dough, which is made with "live" beer yeast and rests for several hours to "grow"

Also us here in Italy have "instant dough" flours available in stores, but the pizza they generate is not exactly the same stuff you eat in a pizzeria, rather kinda a mattress to bite ...

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pizza_istantanea.png


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would you say that current WP-Tags are the same as vintage true Maytag ?? *LOL*
 
Favorit About That "True Beer Yeast"

On these shores many home and commercial bakers use packets of
"instant" yeast, and or the brick version. Indeed SAF amoung a few other brands sold here advertise their "quick" yeast for making breads, brioches, and other doughs by hand, machine mixer or bread machine.

When making pizza and other doughs such as those called for in brioche, many of us simply place the dough in the fridge after the first or second knead/rise and allow it to remain overnight/several hours. Since yeast actitity decreases with lower temperatures chilling does to things. One, it slows down the rising, and this (two) allows a nice rich flavour to develop.

Depending upon how often one bakes, those bricks of "fresh" yeast may totally die before used up. This is why many home bakers prefer the dry yeast packets, which last long beyond their stamped shelf life if properly stored.

Proofing yeast also adds a step many home bakers either do not learn properly and or want to skip a step to speed things along. Only time I proof a packet of yeast is one is concerned if it is still "alive".
 
Uhhhh... I love zeppole!

Anyway, I found a blog that has the very same recipe as my mother used! Sorry I don't have an actual photo if our to show!

Here it is translated: (of course we go by weight and not volume, so get a scale!)

For the dough:
250 ml water (8,45 fl oz)
75 g butter (2,65 oz)
25 g lard (0,88 oz)
5 g salt (0,18 oz)
250 g OO flour (8,82 oz)
6 or 7 eggs (medium) (it depends on how dry de flour is)

For the custard:
600 ml of milk (whole milk) (20,28 fl oz)
4 eggs reds (big)
5 tablespoons of sugar (100 grams)
5 tablespoons of flour (50 grams)
the peel of one (organic) lemon (only the yellow)
bitter chocolate as you see fit for the brown custard

Preparation:

put the butter and lard together with the water and salt in a pan and stir on high heat and remove as soon it starts boiling. Add the flour all at once and mix. Put again on the fire and stir on medium till it starts sizzling. Remove and when the dough cools add one egg at a time till all have incorporated to the mass.

You can then form them the usual shape and either fry them (traditional unhealthy way) in peanut oil (the more fire resistant and less unhealthy of the tasteless oils) or extra virgin olive oil (the healthiest one of all provided that you don't reach smoke point).

If you prefer them baked, put the oven on forced convection and preheat it to 180°C and cook for 40-50 minutes.

You prepare the custard as usual with your ingredients and take apart a small bit of it in which you're going to add the chocolate for the final brown tip.

Tips:

You can exchange part of the water in the dough with some QUALITY white wine of your choice

To fry the dough first form the ring of dough on a small sheet of non stick paper and then capsize it in the oil, the paper will come off as soon as the dough starts cooking

To make them more yummy you can cover them in powdered sugar and then add the custard

The custard used here is not too sweet nor too thick so you can exchange it for another recipe if you prefer.

In other places instead of the brown tip of chocolate cream they use a black cherry

http://semplicegirasole.blogspot.com/2009/03/le-mie-zeppole.html
 
Oh... and as you can see zeppole are made more or less with choux dough, not at all with "pizza" or "bread" dough! So no yeast in it!!!!
 
My guess is that the zeppole using choux dough became pizza dough here in the states as an adaptation of Italian Americans in their new homeland.
 
Am Not Trying To Start WWIII Here! *LOL*

However as stated in my OP, most every Italian-American household has their own *way* of making zeppole.

However there seems to be two common methods on these shores, one is the pate a choux, and the other is basically pizza dough. Indeed when at the supermarket last night picking up some pie shells spied several different bags of ready made pizza dough. Each bag was clearly labeled that the contents can be used for "pizza, calzone, zeppole, ....".

This variation fits into the different ways one sees zeppole served here in the states. One is the basic fried dough dusted with powdered sugar, cinnamon sugar or honey sold at most every Italian-American street fair. The other is the more fancy puff pastry version filled with cream, custard or whatever else including savory meats. The latter two I believe are called "St. Joseph Cakes" and served on the saint's feast day.

Making pate a choux is a bit more difficult than pizza dough, especially if one does not know how to or simply skips the tempering step when adding eggs.

In the recipe above the we are told to allow the dough to cool before adding the eggs, however tempering removes this waiting step and is designed to prevent the heat from the dough or whatever from cooking the eggs as they are added.
 
Wow - Dahlinks!

I am lucky enough to:
1) Have had a real Italian grandmother and aunts. Lots of realItalian aunts. Who bake. Like my grandmother.
2) Live a very tiny drive from Italy. Eat your hearts out!
3) Have real Italian friends right here who cook.
4) Have many Italian-American friends in the US.

And you know what? Some use pâte à choux or very close.
Some use pizza dough.

AND some of the pâte à choux bakers are Italian-American WHILE some of the pizza dough users are outstanding bakers and cooks who are real Italians. In Italy.

This is as pointless and stupid an argument as defining THE one and only sugo. Or demanding that it "ain't Italiano without the oregan-o".

Sheesh.

The two different doughs (and all the variations inbetween) offer us not LESS but MORE variations on one of the nicest things about Advent.

Favorit, Americans are pretty much stuck with "instant" yeast. By our standards (our means Northern Italy through Berlin) even "normal rise" American yeast would be super-ultra-rapid rise yeast.

This is why they have so many more "refrigerator" yeast recipies than we do.

Honestly, dah-links, can we just focus on the absolutely best cuisine in the world - Italian - and not worry about regional variations? I mean, like, sheesh.
 
Maybe other places too

Reading this thread, I was struck by the apparant similarity of Zeppole (which to be honest, I had never heard of) with Churros - a Mexican/Spanish confection that Nigella Lawson featured on here show last week - it is episode 8 of "Nigella Kitchen", which is currently on a first run here - its not up on youtube yet as far as I can see.

Anyway, the dough is pretty plain to I guess more towards pizza than choux and no yeast either, with a very rich chocolate dipping sauce.

Here is a link to the recipe on the BBC website

Al

http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/churros_with_chocolate_84833
 
DJ-Gabriele

Yes, now you've got it! *LOL*

Link below gives some recipes for "Zeppole", but as stated often in this thread, you will see there are so many variations.

Am going to go out on a limb and say *where* one or one's family is from in Italy may influence how "zeppole" are made. I mean no offense, but frying up pizza dough is a bit less expensive than going the eggs, custard/cream/meat and so forth filling route. Thus more likely to have been made more often, even when times were "hard".

Panthera:

There are many types of yeast available in the United States, if one chooses to seek them out. Some home bakers I know also keep and feed their own sourdough starter. However again as stated above, for the average housewife or someone who bakes perhaps just several times a year, large portions of "active" yeast is really a waste. It most certianly will die off before ever being finished.

http://www.cooks.com/rec/search/0,1-0,zeppole,FF.html
 
I step back! :)

"Zeppole" is a misuse :) like Parmesan instead of Parmigiano; because they're completely different things as one is a dessert, the other is an appetizer! Honestly I'd love to speak head to head to the Italian-American (or Italian only or whatever) friend that calls the pizza-stuff "zeppole" :)

I did further reserch and learned that the "pastacresciute" or "pastacrisciute" (in dialect) of Naples are sometimes called "zeppole" but by no means the two names should be exchanged, maybe your friends comes from the Naples region?

Anyway I couldn't agree more, there are as many personal recipes as grains of sand on a beach! But by no means one should call "smoked salmon" a "hamburger" ;) isn't it?

(out ot thread)
Oh, and by the way, there is the "one and only sugo" ;)
The official recipe of the "Ragù alla Bolognese" is held at the chamber of commerce here in Bologna for historic preservation and avoiding adulteration, if anybody is interested I'll gladly post it
 
Interested! dj-gabriele, very!

Please do post the recipe! Thanks.
Laundress, maybe in NYC, but out in the boondocks, all we get is that ultra-quick, no taste, super gassy stuff. If I were a better baker, I would lay on my own sour dough.

When you consider that until fairly recently the dialects in many neighboring villages in Italy were mutually unintelligible, and given that the Italian cuisine is the world's very best and most diverse, it is no wonder we all have different names for things.
 
Hm. OK, I'd like to come in defense of Lawrence (not that he needs one, mind you) here, because maybe there's a problem with language. I'm sure things get different names in different countries (for example the different kinds of sugar in England and America). So here it is.

In America there are two main kinds of leaveners -- baking powder (which is used to make cakes and quick breads like Irish Soda Bread), also known as chemical leavener and, very possibly in some countries, instant leavener. Baking powder is a combination of acid powders and base powders that react to produce carbon dioxide when exposed to water and, the newer kinds (as in, some 100 years ago or so), double-acting baking powders also produce another dose of carbon dioxide when exposed to heat.

We also have biological leaveners, usually called yeast. You can get several different kinds of yeast in America -- sourdough starter is sold in many places including by mail order, and once activated is a living thing you have to keep properly or it will die.

The other three kinds are basically exactly the same organism (brewer's yeast) packaged in different forms.

You can get yeast cubes which are often seen at the refrigerated section in the supermarket -- these are basically living yeast packaged with an awful lot of other dead yeast cells, they are not very active and if you don't use them very soon after buying they can die completely; old recipes were written with these in mind and that's why there are lots of risings and lots of time.

You can get powdered yeast (also called Active Yeast). These are yeast cells that have been carefully dried, so they get dormant and you need to reactivate them by rehydrating the powder. The drying process basically kills the external cells in the tiny blobs. You use way less active yeast powder (by weight) than the old cubes. Since not all cells are live, the recipe tends to take about the same time and number of risings for old yeast cubes. If you did use the same weight of active yeast I'm sure you'd have a Lucy Ricardo moment and have bread taking over your kitchen.

And you can get Instant Yeast, also known as Bread-Machine Yeast. This is exactly the same creature (brewer's yeast) you get from the cubes or the active yeast powder. The biggest difference is that this yeast is dried by a different process that takes almost all cells from active to dormant very quickly, so way fewer of them die in the process. If you only have instant yeast and want to replicate a recipe for active yeast, use 30% less and you have converted the recipe successfully. If you are used to active yeast and want to convert to instant yeast, use 2.25 teaspoons of instant yeast for each packet of active yeast in the recipe (I forget if it's 7 or 9 grams of instant yeast).

The thing with instant yeast is that you don't need to proof it. In fact, if you do, you'll need to follow the same number of risings and timing as for the other two kinds.

But the cool thing is, if you mix the instant yeast with the flour and use water in the proper temperatures (from 105-120F), then you can knead the dough, give it 10 minutes in place of the first rising, shape the dough, do the second rising and bake it. That, right there, cuts at least one hour in the rising time. The end product is identical to the traditional risings.

If you do what I do (I do the second rising in the microwave, it takes from 6-15 minutes), and you are fairly well organized, you can have bread coming out of the oven in 60-90 minutes from start to finish. If you are fairly disorganized, you can have bread in just two hours. Which is less than it takes to rise it by the traditional methods. That's why some bread machines get bread so fast.

Now I can hear what y'all are thinking. That's bound to be bad bread, just like machine bread. I will laugh at you. I'll be the very first to admit that this is not the way to produce sourdough bread, because the very flavor of sourdough comes from getting sour and there isn't enough time to sour in 60 minutes without cheating like using beer and/or vinegar etc. But if you are making anything like sandwich breads, which are not as assertive to begin with, or stuff with a more delicate flavor, like challahs etc, the instant yeast method runs circles around the traditional methods, because all the flavor of the ingredients just pop in your mouth to the point you can tell if you used a good flour like King Arthur or just an ordinary flour and you can even tell if the flour was rancid or not, which many breads made with the traditional methods hide very well.

In fact, I have had plenty of chefs tell me to my face that "unless you let the dough rise slowly, the bread won't have any flavor" and then say they loved my bread and ask for the recipe. Once I had a chef talk to me at a party spouting exactly those ideas and it was all I could do to not tell her that if that was true she should not have eaten half a loaf of the bread I had just baked and brought to the party. Just to give you some food for the thought, there would be no good breads in warm places like Portugal, Spain, France and Italy if the only good breads came from rising slowly at 40-60F. Bread just rises faster in places like that, you wait until the dough about doubles in size and you're done, if you want sourdough bread you use sourdough starter which will have the right blend of yeast and bacteria to produce the right flavors. As long as the flavor is good, why should anyone care how long it took? Are we at the point that the end product doesn't matter, what matters is how long you slaved over it? Because usually, as the recipient of a letter, for example, one doesn't care if it took one person 3 hours to type a letter that other people can type in just 5 minutes, we care the letter is done (unless you are the boss and you don't want to wait for that much inefficiency).

As for pizza, I'm here to tell you that my entire family came from Italy, some from the North, some from the South. Every single great-grandparent thought pizza was different than what the others thought. It is quite clear to me, looking at the recipes, that pizza in their families was either the same recipe as their bread or extremely close to it, so of course, given the number of different breads there are, the pizzas will be different too. But rest assured it's pizza and bread anyway, there's no good reason to think one is more Italian or more genuine than any other, they all taste good. It's only in the last 50 years or so that "recipes" for pizza became more standardized. Also, keep in mind that workflows in restaurant are vastly different than at home and many times recipes for home will totally fail in a restaurant and vice-versa. For example, few people have ovens that reach 500-600F consistently, so of course a pizza recipe for a home oven will be very different and cook with a different timing at 400F than whatever the pizzaiollo is using -- the flour is different, the hydration (ratio of water to flour) is different, temperature, timing etc.

Just to give you an idea of how different people see it totally differently, my mom's dad, who came from Piedmont (sp?) would send any pizza from a pizzeria back. Why, you may ask? Ironically for the same reason they are burnt in the first place. His generation, who was forced to use wood ovens, would think that only a completely careless person would not pay attention and let them burn. My mom and her siblings say he had never been happier than when the first pizza came out of the newly bought gas oven, crispy, perfectly golden brown and with not a trace of char anywhere. Meanwhile, we people who grew up with thermostatically controlled gas and electric ovens would never go to a restaurant and get a pizza that anyone could produce at home by just dialing 400F and the appropriate time at the timer and just come back to perfect pizza, no no no. We go to the restaurant and they are forced to get a wood oven to make "authentic" pizza for us and they have to keep looking at it or it will be un-edible -- with time, pizzas started coming out of the oven increasingly more charred, just to prove it was made the "traditional, authentic" way with a wood oven. It's got to the point that I avoid certain places because the pizza is now bitter and yucky. It's in fact the same crap that happened to pasta -- 50 years ago pasta was cooked to death here and someone told people pasta should be "al dente" so people started cooking pasta less and less, so now there are people and restaurant serving practically raw pasta, yuck. I hope that fad disappears soon.
 

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