Speed Queen TC5 Anniversary and sudsing issue.

[william8]

My water softness varies depending on if the softener just ran or is close to needing a recharge.

I had the same problem of an A/C condensate drain shared with the washer. I moved the A/C drain elsewhere to another drain pipe and used the plug. Only problem I have had since is the hose coming up out of the drain pipe some from vibration and foaming over again so I had to secure it to stay in place.

As mentioned a dedicated washer drain pipe with a trap added would solve it. Myself I would T the existing standpipe, add a trap, and washer drain pipe. Yes the washer would go through two drain traps on the way out. Get a quote as it should be cheap enough to just do it.

As I stated above, the hose extension required will not fit in the plug, not even close, diameter of the rubber piece is more than 1/4" bigger than the plastic hose that would normal go into the plug. Using the supplied plug is out. So not sure how another standpipe would help.

I wouldn't need a quote, PVC is an easy DIY job. But as stated, there is no space left between any couplings, so if I cut it, there will be no pipe to attach anything to. How do you tee an existing drain pipe? Double traps are against code as well, can cause an airlock, and overflowing. I do appreciate the suggestions, just don't see how it can be done. Maybe a picture?

The good news is, it hasn't done it again in the seven weeks since I posted this, about 18 loads.

 

[tuesdak]

It took me awhile to figure out the suds overflow as mine didn't do it often. I was looking for a water leak from the stains it left and couldn't find one.

Add a new standpipe for the washer that fits the plug. Or reducer to the existing standpipe that the supplied plug fits and other two drain lines would need their own new standpipe.

Can you cut the current standpipe trap off to add a T and two standpipes with their own separate traps to the main line? Possibly run a new pipe to the clean out plug, extend the plug, would be the other possibility.

 

[jrap330]

Laundry tub isn't possible, the main drain out of the house is about 4 ft. off the floor of the basement, would require pump etc. No room anyways.

I just find it odd it was fine for 8 months.

Not sure what you mean by plumbing direct into the drain? It is direct into the only drain I have. Not doing anything against code, if you mean placing it after the trap. Pic of the plumbing and space.

View attachment 310006

View attachment 310007

Mine did the same after about 6 months, 7 loads per week. Rubber plug end was not installed, I installed it, it helps but every time I do towels...suds still leak out Someone stated the speed queen pumps out too fast due to Commercial design. You can try putting in a "y " extension pipe so you can use the plug One guy added on to his drain stack going up higher, and for a short run go from 2" to 4" back to 2" pipe. I now only fill my detergent to line 1, small load. Speed Queen recommended HE detergent which must are and a couple of detergents which are not major brands, which only available online and expensive, so decided not to. So, I am living with it

 

[jrap330]

normal eco

Ugh, I'd stay away from that cycle. Any Speed Queen Washer with only a normal eco cycle must be avoided. Somebody should've programmed the washer to do a deep rinse. Period.

If you do normal Eco, there is an extra rinse selection to select !I just use permanent press instead and use the extra dirty selection instead.

 

[jrap330]

As I stated above, the hose extension required will not fit in the plug, not even close, diameter of the rubber piece is more than 1/4" bigger than the plastic hose that would normal go into the plug. Using the supplied plug is out. So not sure how another standpipe would help.

I wouldn't need a quote, PVC is an easy DIY job. But as stated, there is no space left between any couplings, so if I cut it, there will be no pipe to attach anything to. How do you tee an existing drain pipe? Double traps are against code as well, can cause an airlock, and overflowing. I do appreciate the suggestions, just don't see how it can be done. Maybe a picture?

The good news is, it hasn't done it again in the seven weeks since I posted this, about 18 loads.

Again, my TC5 now does it on just towels,still leaks out beyond the rubber plug. Issue been mention before when I brought mine back in 2019.

 

[william8]

It took me awhile to figure out the suds overflow as mine didn't do it often. I was looking for a water leak from the stains it left and couldn't find one.

Add a new standpipe for the washer that fits the plug. Or reducer to the existing standpipe that the supplied plug fits and other two drain lines would need their own new standpipe.

Can you cut the current standpipe trap off to add a T and two standpipes with their own separate traps to the main line? Possibly run a new pipe to the clean out plug, extend the plug, would be the other possibility.

View attachment 316575

The plug fits the standpipe just fine. It will not fit the extension hose on my washer has. I've explained that three times in this thread. It's part of a SQ extension hose kit, as the hose was about a foot short. It's a rubber piece, larger than the tapered end on the regular hose that eliminates the plastic piece that forms the "U" bend on the stock hose.

As stated before, if I cut the standpipe, there will be NO pipe to attach anything to, and two traps in a row is against code. I looked it up. And I still don't know how you put two standpipes in a row with their own traps, or why a new standpipe wouldn't suds too. Even if it were legal.

You can't run a pipe to the clean out plug, they don't make pieces for that, and a stand pipe must be vertical, not at an angle.

 

[william8]

Mine did the same after about 6 months, 7 loads per week. Rubber plug end was not installed, I installed it, it helps but every time I do towels...suds still leak out Someone stated the speed queen pumps out too fast due to Commercial design. You can try putting in a "y " extension pipe so you can use the plug One guy added on to his drain stack going up higher, and for a short run go from 2" to 4" back to 2" pipe. I now only fill my detergent to line 1, small load. Speed Queen recommended HE detergent which must are and a couple of detergents which are not major brands, which only available online and expensive, so decided not to. Soni am.living with it

Can't make the standpipe taller, as explained above, it's already only 6" from the floor joists.
Can't use the plug, the hose will not fit in it, as explained above.

 

[jrap330]

As I stated above, the hose extension required will not fit in the plug, not even close, diameter of the rubber piece is more than 1/4" bigger than the plastic hose that would normal go into the plug. Using the supplied plug is out. So not sure how another standpipe would help.

I wouldn't need a quote, PVC is an easy DIY job. But as stated, there is no space left between any couplings, so if I cut it, there will be no pipe to attach anything to. How do you tee an existing drain pipe? Double traps are against code as well, can cause an airlock, and overflowing. I do appreciate the suggestions, just don't see how it can be done. Maybe a picture?

The good news is, it hasn't done it again in the seven weeks since I posted this, about 18 loads.

The plug fits over the end of plastic hose...design to make a tight fit on your drain pipe. Again I still get suds with towels so yeah the plugs do not work.

 

[william8]

The plug fits over the end of plastic hose...design to make a tight fit on your drain pipe. Again I still get suds with towels so yeah the plugs do not work.

Right, and if you look the end of MY drain hose is not plastic, it's rubber, it's not tapered to fit the plug.. Hose wouldn't reach high enough for the stand pipe, so I installed just the end piece of this kit:
https://www.hagedornappliance.com/Speed-Queen-451P3-Kit-Drain-Extension

It eliminated the plastic "U" piece on the original hose, which alone made the hose a foot longer or so.

I don't like the corrugated hoses, and wonder if the ribbing is causing it to suds, there is no water, just suds. Everyone here says the plastic hoses are great, but I found a SQ video that implies that rubber hoses are much better:


A real rubber hose, just like the old days.

 

[jrap330]

Ok, I now understand what you meant by extension hose, and I saw the SQ webpage that you linked to Why I doubt it is the corrugations , but as I read SQ TC5 has too fast a discharge...query SQ if the rubber has also an extension you can adapt to. Thanks for the link.

 

[combo52]

This is a problem that sometimes defies a solution, just clamp the hose into the standpipe. I had to do this 30 years ago on my GE combo that’s in my kitchen.

If you use a drain line check valve you will not have problems with water, either siphoning out of the machine or sucking back from the drainage system When the machine is agitating in the pumps running in the reverse direction.

 

[william8]

Ok, I now understand what you meant by extension hose, and I saw the SQ webpage that you linked to Why I doubt it is the corrugations , but as I read SQ TC5 has too fast a discharge...query SQ if the rubber has also an extension you can adapt to. Thanks for the link.

It may not be the corrugations, I was theorizing that it causes more turbulence than a smooth hose would. I know the pump is strong, but by the time it suds, the water is done, you can hear it just pumping air (and suds on rare occasions).

As far as adapters, all you would really need is a plug with a bigger hole. But since I also have HVAC and water softener in the same drain, the plug just won't work.

 

[william8]

This is a problem that sometimes defies a solution, just clamp the hose into the standpipe. I had to do this 30 years ago on my GE combo that’s in my kitchen.

If you use a drain line check valve you will not have problems with water, either siphoning out of the machine or sucking back from the drainage system When the machine is agitating in the pumps running in the reverse direction.

Against code, no air gap. And where would I put the HVAC and softener drain hoses? I think we discussed this before.

https://codes.iccsafe.org/s/MIPC201...18P2-Ch04-Sec406.2#MIPC2018P2_Ch08_Sec802.4.3

That looks like a dishwasher drain under a sink?

 

[tuesdak]

two traps in a row is against code.

Noted. I suggested it differently the second time. (Not in a row.) Each standpipe has it's own trap to the main line. One would have to come away from the wall in a 3D manor with the T for the trap on the first stand pipe and then just extend the other to the left. Yeah, not a lot of room to work with.

From the picture: is there room to put a coupler here if this one is cut off? The last repair didn't leave you much to work with.

just clamp the hose into the standpipe.

I wonder if a Studor vent, air admittance valve, would help the code concern with this? Although there is one installed in the OP's setup already that explains the different color new pipe section. It's on the wrong side of the trap for what I am suggesting for using your idea.

 

[william8]

Noted. I suggested it differently the second time. (Not in a row.) Each standpipe has it's own trap to the main line. One would have to come away from the wall in a 3D manor with the T for the trap on the first stand pipe and then just extend the other to the left. Yeah, not a lot of room to work with.

From the picture: is there room to put a coupler here if this one is cut off? The last repair didn't leave you much to work with.

View attachment 316594



I wonder if a Studor vent, air admittance valve, would help the code concern with this? Although there is one installed in the OP's setup already that explains the different color new pipe section. It's on the wrong side of the trap for what I am suggesting for using your idea.

Here's a closeup. There's about one inch. But another stand pipe won't help anyways, because the hose will not fit in the plug, I've tried to explain that many times, even gave links above to the extension kit.
And that wasn't a repair, there was about 2.5" of pipe between the original fittings. I cut it in the middle, and added the AAV (Air admittance valve or studor). As you can see, that left less that 1/8" on each side. No pipe was removed. You can see missing paint on the wall where the stand pipe used to sit, left of the hot water pipe. There never was much pipe, it's just for the washer and kitchen sink. Sorry for the long explanation, trying to make it clear.

I think I see what you mean about the T, but you can't use a T on a drain, and one outlet would point at the wall if I understand you right. Even if a T and trap would fit (it won't, it's about 1.5" from the wall), when the water is draining, it would go straight through the T to the other trap, it's not going to turn, path of least resistance. You'd need something like a wye, and even then I've never seen that done, not sure it would work.

The AAV will not help with a "direct" connection, it's not an air gap, and it HAS to be installed after the trap. And direct connections are against code. That ain't happening.