Resurrection of the Whirlpools

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Yes for me, I like super duper simple. Press, Press, push, turn, pull, done. Far less that can go wrong.



I think exactly like Kirk Rivas here at 1:00 -













I like any washer modeled after the GE WWC6700PA shown above.





The two and three speed versions would offer slow/fast with the casuals button depressed. Time, duration and temperature pre-programmed through the fabric switch. No guess work for me.





But I understand you- there are many who would want granular control with separate selection combinations. Though that introduces added complexity which I am not a fan of- ie those timers that have 5 or more separate stand alone cycles built into them. Lots of switching going in a few short degrees that must happen in the correct order.

I could never understand the idea behind using a two speed clutch rather than a two speed motor. It seems like it would have been much more expensive to build... and I have no clue how the 3 speed versions worked -actually I never bothered to even try to get how the 2 speed clutches worked. Putting the clutch and motor under the sure-to-leak-eventually pump was a stroke of planned obsolescence genius, though!
 
I could never understand the idea behind using a two speed clutch rather than a two speed motor. It seems like it would have been much more expensive to build... and I have no clue how the 3 speed versions worked -actually I never bothered to even try to get how the 2 speed clutches worked. Putting the clutch and motor under the sure-to-leak-eventually pump was a stroke of planned obsolescence genius, though!
GE also had a 4-speed model. Several brands, including GE via a clutch IIRC, had variable-speed washers for a short time in the 1960s.
 
I could never understand the idea behind using a two speed clutch rather than a two speed motor. It seems like it would have been much more expensive to build... and I have no clue how the 3 speed versions worked -actually I never bothered to even try to get how the 2 speed clutches worked. Putting the clutch and motor under the sure-to-leak-eventually pump was a stroke of planned obsolescence genius, though!

To be honest, neither have I. I am guessing it was so the re-circulation and mini basket could work on all Speeds. Robert might know given his knowledge of the Filter Flo's history and the fact he has two of the first GE automatics ever built.

Personally, and this is just me only talking from my own luddite mentality I would never have produced a two, three or variable speed filter flo. I'd have kept all the models single speed and used removable agitators, soaks and shortened wash periods for delicate fabrics instead of multiple speeds. In the real world it was not uncommon for the machine to quickly lose its slow speed and people would not notice for the remaining decades of use. I think if GE had simply used the speed switch to shift the motor's run winding between one set of timer contacts which ran the motor continuously during the wash period and another set of contacts which ran the motor 2 minutes on, 3 minutes off, two minutes on and repeat it would have been a win-win for everyone.

Maytag had great success with their wash 1 minute, soak 4 minutes, wash 1 minute delicate cycle which would have been a breeze on GE's multi cycle timers.
 
To be honest, neither have I. I am guessing it was so the re-circulation and mini basket could work on all Speeds. Robert might know given his knowledge of the Filter Flo's history and the fact he has two of the first GE automatics ever built.
That is correct. GE in some instances touted that filtering and drain was always at full motor speed regardless of the agitation and spin speed selection.

JCPenney (rebadged GE) also touted it. This in reference to a rim-flo model: Clutch system works in combination with the constant-speed motor. Changes agitation and spin speed without slowing filtering action or pump-out speeds.
 
One of the latest things I’ve done, added a fan to turbo-charge the dryer to help push air through the heating element and into the drum, should also help the cool-down right before it shuts off.

Surprisingly, wasn’t as loud as you’d think since I rigged it up earlier this summer, but was temporary since I couldn’t find my drill and just had to rig something up. Definitely more permanent since I mounted it in with some small nuts and bolts.

If anyone is wondering, tapped into the lighting circuit so it’ll run whenever the console light is on. Will get a video clip sometime this evening of it in operation.
I must say, HOLY CRAP! It’s fast! It dries a hell of a lot more quickly, the temperature of the glass porthole window on the door is about equal to the exhaust outlet temperature (at least judging by the temperature on the lint screen lid), the incoming air is definitely making it way to the drum as intended instead of scooting behind the drum and making it’s way out the exhaust, speeding up the drying time.

Initially, the dryness on the auto dry had to be set to more dry for items to be dried to completion with a settle hint of dampness. Now, it dries a heck of a lot faster and can tell since I don’t hear the damp-dry thermostat open up (grounded the moisture sensor through a cycling thermostat since there’s no provision for a moisture sensor) once it reaches 120F. It would open up after 3 to 8 minutes (would very on the load size), now it takes a good 8 to 10 minutes (again, varies on the load size) or so to open up after I added that booster fan since the incoming air is making it’s way to the drum.

Definitely was worth doing this modification to speed up the drying time and efficiency.
 
Hi Sean, how many CFM‘s does that electricfan move?

I’m sure you know that it won’t make a darn bit of difference.

I only ever saw one clothes dryer that had an input and an exhaust fan and it was the first whirlpool electric dryers, they used identical fan to force air over the heater and into the drum and a second one to exhaust air and enforce it out of the machine.

It was an interesting idea, but it didn’t make a single bit of difference, which is why whirlpool quickly discontinued it

The fan you put in since it’s much weaker than the blower in the dryer would not make any difference whatsoever. It might even slow down performance by blocking air movement over the heating element and into the drum.

John L
 
On average, how much time does the fan shave off of a full load?
Still have to run a couple more loads through (large load of towels will definitely be official test for sure) but so far seems to have reduced drying time a good 5 to 10 minutes so far.
 
Hi Sean, how many CFM‘s does that electricfan move?

I’m sure you know that it won’t make a darn bit of difference.

I only ever saw one clothes dryer that had an input and an exhaust fan and it was the first whirlpool electric dryers, they used identical fan to force air over the heater and into the drum and a second one to exhaust air and enforce it out of the machine.

It was an interesting idea, but it didn’t make a single bit of difference, which is why whirlpool quickly discontinued it

The fan you put in since it’s much weaker than the blower in the dryer would not make any difference whatsoever. It might even slow down performance by blocking air movement over the heating element and into the drum.

John L
It moves around 200 cfm, but with the suction of the main blower/fan, it makes it spin a bit faster which forces more air in.

Definitely can tell it’s a bit faster since the thermostats open and close fairly quickly since the fan brings in cooler air sooner dropping the temp inside the drum down fairly quickly. Believe it’s a minute or so between the thermostat opening and closing.
 
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