Recent content by ron350

MarkMC if you look at the bottom of your picture you can see the lower edge of the silver plate that has the model and serial #. If you have the lid halfway open you can look past the back lip on the lid and read the model #.

In one of those pictures it looks like you have a dark piece of fabric between the block of wood and the wall. If that helps with the vibration what would happen if you used silicone pads on both sides of the block of wood?

Can't give any more advice or will be blocked from forum.

That Catalyst washer is so complicated just leave everything like you have it now. The last thing you want to do is fry that control board.

That switch looks fine. Klein NCV-1. You pick up one of these pens or any other name brand non contact voltage testor. It will tell you whoch of the wires is supplying 120V to the lid switch and run that wire through the new switch then back to the connector. With one of these pen's you...

I don't know how important it is for your application but if you ask an electrician he will say only put a switch on the HOT (120V supply) side of the circuit. The reasoning behind this is if you put the switch on the neutral side the circuit will be looking for a ground making it easier...

You can use molex .093" male and female pins and plastic conectors and not cut any wires. Remember the switch needs to be on the hot side of the circuit just like a light switch. I think that might be the black center wire on yours...

You can remove the flame sensor and test it if you want but it sounds like it is not very old. The way i test it is to clip an ohm meter (multi meter set to ohms)to the two tabs on the flame sensor. Hold the window of the flame sensor against a 60 or 100 watt incandescent light bulb...

The new back up ignitor for my DG308 reads 70 Ω (ohms) While you are testing parts make sure the Flame Sensor (radiant sensor) reads closed circuit "0" Ω.

That is a good looking machine.

It looks like there is a blue top section on ebay. Part # 3349582 but they put a price on it.

When this part of the timer knob is stuck what is the safest way to remove it?

How does the original FSP 285792 compair to the aftermarket one's on ebay?

You sure are good at finding NOS parts. Parts pros video shows the guy using some real thin grease. If i were to use grease on those two rollers I would use thicker grease like green grease or Bentone grease. The trouble with grease is that it will attract dust.

Please update this thread when you find out what is making the noise. I was hoping that new NOS pump would work out.