Whirlpool Washer Rant!

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whirlpool862

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Columbus, OH
I liked Whirlpool for a long time, but the newest washers they make are probably even less reliable than Samsungs (at least the lower end Whirlpools)! They have a major control board issue and it’s way more common than before, I see Reddit threads about it and reviews about this issue all the time that say “whirlpool washer constantly draining” or “washer makes a noise when it’s not on” type posts. This was never a problem before. And this problem keeps spreading and at eventually there may be more 2023 whirlpools that need control boards than those that don’t. No other washer had had that high of a control board failure rate. Whirlpool should get a class action lawsuit for making machines that fail within a year! And all the control boards are back ordered too, I’m so glad I got a Whirlpool before this issue started.

At this point, I’d actually rather own a Samsung and replace it every 5 years than buy one of those new whirlpools where the control board fails in a year.

Thousands of the newer Whirlpool machines and possibly millions are now constantly draining.

The whirlpool dryers with the top lint trap are still great and always will be. In fact i think whirlpool dryers have great reliability. Whirlpool still makes good dryers for sure. The refrigerators seem okay, as well as their ranges.

And no, I’m not recommending Samsung washers or any of their appliances, they’re all junk and every Samsung is problematic. The GE’s are also pretty bad and they are actually exploding just like the older Samsung machines did. I wouldn’t recommend most LG’s either, although their top loaders and front loaders are pretty solid, but other appliance they make is bad and their customer service i heard was terrible if they break early. I always tell people who are looking for a new washer and dryer to not buy any washer and dryer that’s from Midea or Samsung, or midea-made washers like Insignia, Frigidaire, or whatever other brand there is too.

The GE profile line top load washer and dryer set is overpriced and doesn't rinse so would not recommend, and I see them exploding too. Every GE top loading washer with the impeller seems to be exploding.

At this point, unfortunately, nothing is good anymore except for speed Queen. If my VMW breaks down I’ll have to buy something used as I’m not paying $1500 for a single washer. It’s already starting to wear out in the bearings so it could die soon.

Whirlpool needs to fix this issue immediately if they haven’t, all the 2023 and 2024 models seem to be getting affected, and it tends to occur within one year after installation.

Say a thread on reddit about whirlpool washer installed in newer construction, and they said half of their costumers reported a control board problem.

Even the higher end Whirlpools with the terrible user interface are better than the newest six light style machines. These new Whirlpools are destroying their reputation. Whirlpool is aware of this issue, but they haven’t said they fixed it or not and there models affected were not revised. They only revised the higher end machines.

VMWs/VMAXs were always hit or miss machines in my opinion, some lasted a long time, others failed in a few years, but now we have many people saying that their 9 month old Whirlpool WTW4xxxxx or amana NTW45xxxxx washer is having a control board issue. The older cabrios would be great machines if they used better quality seals and bearings on those. Ratings for whirlpool washers are going down for a reason. Their newest washers are junk

The big VMWs have major issues with the pump wires and don’t have good user interfaces either. And when the capacitor or shifter fails on those, it doesn't try to start, instead, the machine just drains and immediately stops the cycle. Also, they have weird spin programming on those machines, and when it’s sensing instead of spinning a few times it just spins, reverses, don’t know why whirlpool programmed those that way. They also are notorious for heavy vibration during spin cycles and have cheap lids, the VMAXs seem better overall, but they still have that bad user interface and have issues with the sliders.

If you want to buy a whirlpool washer, at least buy the Maytag for slightly more money, as they offer a better warranty for the same machine. And Maytag actually now has their own version of that cheap Amana, which is essentially the same machine but with a better warranty.

The Maytag Commercial seems decent but it’s overpriced. The most common part to fail on this is the hub, I don’t even know why whirlpool still uses the plastic hubs on some of their machines.

And this control board issue is not due to overloading, overloading does not cause control board issues, it mainly causes issues with the suspension, drive hub (for stainless tub models only), and the transmission.

People obviously often overload VMWs tho, like if a VMW is 3 years old and already needs a basket hub, it’s likely been overloaded.
 
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I liked Whirlpool for a long time, but the newest washers they make are probably even less reliable than Samsungs (at least the lower end Whirlpools)! They have a major control board issue and it’s way more common than before, I see Reddit threads about it and reviews about this issue all the time that say “whirlpool washer constantly draining” or “washer makes a noise when it’s not on” type posts. This was never a problem before. And this problem keeps spreading and at eventually there may be more 2023 whirlpools that need control boards than those that don’t. No other washer had had that high of a control board failure rate. Whirlpool should get a class action lawsuit for making machines that fail within a year! And all the control boards are back ordered too, I’m so glad I got a Whirlpool before this issue started.

At this point, I’d actually rather own a Samsung and replace it every 5 years than buy one of those new whirlpools where the control board fails in a year.

Thousands of the newer Whirlpool machines and possibly millions are now constantly draining.

The whirlpool dryers with the top lint trap are still great and always will be. In fact i think whirlpool dryers have great reliability. Whirlpool still makes good dryers for sure. The refrigerators seem okay, as well as their ranges.

And no, I’m not recommending Samsung washers or any of their appliances, they’re all junk and every Samsung is problematic. The GE’s are also pretty bad and they are actually exploding just like the older Samsung machines did. I wouldn’t recommend most LG’s either, although their top loaders and front loaders are pretty solid, but other appliance they make is bad and their customer service i heard was terrible if they break early. I always tell people who are looking for a new washer and dryer to not buy any washer and dryer that’s from Midea or Samsung, or midea-made washers like Insignia, Frigidaire, or whatever other brand there is too.

The GE profile line top load washer and dryer set is overpriced and doesn't rinse so would not recommend, and I see them exploding too. Every GE top loading washer with the impeller seems to be exploding.

At this point, unfortunately, nothing is good anymore except for speed Queen. If my VMW breaks down I’ll have to buy something used as I’m not paying $1500 for a single washer. It’s already starting to wear out in the bearings so it could die soon.

Whirlpool needs to fix this issue immediately if they haven’t, all the 2023 and 2024 models seem to be getting affected, and it tends to occur within one year after installation.

Say a thread on reddit about whirlpool washer installed in newer construction, and they said half of their costumers reported a control board problem.

Even the higher end Whirlpools with the terrible user interface are better than the newest six light style machines. These new Whirlpools are destroying their reputation. Whirlpool is aware of this issue, but they haven’t said they fixed it or not and there models affected were not revised. They only revised the higher end machines.

VMWs/VMAXs were always hit or miss machines in my opinion, some lasted a long time, others failed in a few years, but now we have many people saying that their 9 month old Whirlpool WTW4xxxxx or amana NTW45xxxxx washer is having a control board issue. The older cabrios would be great machines if they used better quality seals and bearings on those. Ratings for whirlpool washers are going down for a reason. Their newest washers are junk

The big VMWs have major issues with the pump wires and don’t have good user interfaces either. And when the capacitor or shifter fails on those, it doesn't try to start, instead, the machine just drains and immediately stops the cycle. Also, they have weird spin programming on those machines, and when it’s sensing instead of spinning a few times it just spins, reverses, don’t know why whirlpool programmed those that way. They also are notorious for heavy vibration during spin cycles and have cheap lids, the VMAXs seem better overall, but they still have that bad user interface and have issues with the sliders.

If you want to buy a whirlpool washer, at least buy the Maytag for slightly more money, as they offer a better warranty for the same machine. And Maytag actually now has their own version of that cheap Amana, which is essentially the same machine but with a better warranty.

The Maytag Commercial seems decent but it’s overpriced. The most common part to fail on this is the hub, I don’t even know why whirlpool still uses the plastic hubs on some of their machines.

And this control board issue is not due to overloading, overloading does not cause control board issues, it mainly causes issues with the suspension, drive hub (for stainless tub models only), and the transmission.

People obviously often overload VMWs tho, like if a VMW is 3 years old and already needs a basket hub, it’s likely been overloaded.
Whirlpool washers are stupid crap! So are their dishwashers! My Kenmore is made by them and the stupid crappy Chinese pump just went out! Get me a Speed Queen Classic! This is why I wish there were/are Speed Queen Dishwashers!
 
This is what people actually want even if they've been to mislead to articulate it:


1753883283613.png


User controlled water level, deep fill, thorough cleaning agitation, no lid lock, no error codes, no random off balance loads, vibration limited suspension system, EM controls, mains supplied induction motor, no wrinkling, no pilling, no streaking, no odors, no gunk, no break downs, long life.

Consumers once had this at a great price.
 
This is what people actually want even if they've been to mislead to articulate it:


View attachment 317576


User controlled water level, deep fill, thorough cleaning agitation, no lid lock, no error codes, no random off balance loads, vibration limited suspension system, EM controls, mains supplied induction motor, no wrinkling, no pilling, no streaking, no odors, no gunk, no break downs, long life.

Consumers once had this at a great price.
Whirlpool actually made one like this for maytag although this image of the control panel looks AI generated. Those made more options and I believe those were the MVWC700VW model. Those were direct drive and were good machines.
 
Whirlpool actually made one like this for maytag although this image of the control panel looks AI generated. Those made more options and I believe those were the MVWC700VW model. Those were direct drive and were good machines.


If by AI = Authentic Intelligence it sure is 😁 I photo shopped the control panel with the cycles and options that I would want to see on a DD, as well as deriving everything from a single 48 step 7.5 degree increment timer like in a commercial environment. Less that can go wrong this way. I like the concept of having a single cycle on a full timer revolution and having temps, speeds, cycles, options, ect dictated by separate knobs.

I miss the glass lids and original DA agitators, I still wish they offered those together.
 
Whirlpool washers are stupid crap! So are their dishwashers! My Kenmore is made by them and the stupid crappy Chinese pump just went out! Get me a Speed Queen Classic! This is why I wish there were/are Speed Queen Dishwashers!
Lmao. What a clown.
I think everyone here knows your Kenmore dishwasher is a Bosch.
 
This is what people actually want even if they've been to mislead to articulate it:


View attachment 317576


User controlled water level, deep fill, thorough cleaning agitation, no lid lock, no error codes, no random off balance loads, vibration limited suspension system, EM controls, mains supplied induction motor, no wrinkling, no pilling, no streaking, no odors, no gunk, no break downs, long life.

Consumers once had this at a great price.
Now dishwashers take 2 hours! This is so stupid! Whirlpool should hide their heads in shame.
 
Lmao. What a clown.
I think everyone here knows your Kenmore dishwasher is a Bosch.
I just moved out of my apartment that had the Bosch built Kenmore back into my dad's house which has the Whirlpool built one temporarily until I get another apartment unit in Temple, so try again. That Whirlpool built Kenmore has a top rack that is weak due to that stupid spray which is stupid crap!
 
Well they need to make them again! Consumers are sick and tired of the 2 hour cycles and unclean dishes! In other words, they still come out dirty!
Jerome, Speed Queen didn't make that dishwasher. It wasn't a stand-alone appliance, it was included in their Cook-n-Clean center, which was an eye-level oven, cooktop, and dishwasher below. Also sold by Modern Maid, from which SQ sourced the Cook-n-Clean unit. The dishwasher was made by Design & Manufacturing (D&M) . D&M no longer exists. Its manufacturing assets were sold to WCI in 1987, the company was dissolved in 1990.
 
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I almost bought the Maytag MVWP585GW until I read a Reddit post that even though it has a water level selector the control board may still over-ride the settings. I was willing to give it a go thinking that if works out great, if it has the issue return it....until I found out Whirlpool will not take anything back once it is used.

I don't know how any company expects you to just buy something without being able to try it out and expect you will like it.

I didn't take any chances and refused delivery. I ended up buying an LG front loader for now and worst case I rebuild my direct drive. It needs a new transmission, bearings and a inner tub.
 
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I almost bought the Maytag MVWP585GW until I read a Reddit post that even though it has a water level selector the control board may still over-ride the settings. I was willing to give it a go thinking that if works out great, if it has the issue return it....until I found out Whirlpool will not take anything back once it is used.

I don't know how any company expects you to just buy something without being able to try it out and expect you will like it.

I didn't take any chances and refused delivery. I ended up buying an LG front loader for now and worst case I rebuild my direct drive. It needs a new transmission, bearings and a inner tub.
I had that machine and it is true it will over ride the water level on the Normal cycle. It will also fill to a lower water level if you open the lid during the rinse fill even if you have it set to a higher level. These manufacturers are playing games with us....
 
I had that machine and it is true it will over ride the water level on the Normal cycle. It will also fill to a lower water level if you open the lid during the rinse fill even if you have it set to a higher level. These manufacturers are playing games with us....
Thank you for re-affirming this. I had thought someone was using the Eco mode which would in my mind over-ride it. I guess I dodged a bullet there.

What is the point in having it? I wonder if the GE models do this as well.
 
"Mam, putting a non sensor type water level selector is over budget, and against the uniform code." Tear that bitch of a selector out and put a normal old fashioned one in!" "Don't EFF with me fellas!"
 
Thank you for re-affirming this. I had thought someone was using the Eco mode which would in my mind over-ride it. I guess I dodged a bullet there.

What is the point in having it? I wonder if the GE models do this as well.
Even the lid instructions on the Maytag commercial. Tell you this about using the normal cycle. How it works with your selection for optimal performance. I forget exactly what it says but that's the gist of it. In other words, it overrides what you choose. It's the way they word it without being direct.
 
I had that machine and it is true it will over ride the water level on the Normal cycle. It will also fill to a lower water level if you open the lid during the rinse fill even if you have it set to a higher level. These manufacturers are playing games with us....


I would love to be in the room to hear the reasoning behind doing that. Or the terms to sanitize questionable practices into something moral.
 
I've owned the older model of this washer for seven years now. No issues other than replacing the agitator dogs (inexpensive easy-to-replace part that has to be replaced occasionally due to normal wear/tear). Interesting. Does the newer model override the "Normal" cycle only or all cycles? If only "normal" cycle, I think this is the cycle that manufacturers use to meet whatever energy savings requirements they have to. It may not be specific to this washer or manufacturer. Just be aware of it, and work around it.

On my older model, Normal is a half load wash and spray rinse and the ONLY option for a smaller wash load. Surprisingly, it works well for lightly soiled items or as a "Quick Wash". I have my hoses hooked up so that I control the water temp with the faucets and not the knobs, so I have true warm or hot water for these washes too. It's too rough for smaller loads of delicates though.

If you are set on getting a top load washer, the Maytag described here works well. The dual action agitator moves clothes down, in, and through the water very well. It actually uses a full tub of water (at least my model does), and the basic load selections meet my needs.

I was able to get around the restrictions by hooking up my washer differently, so I control the temp from the water faucet. For that small load of whites? I just wash it twice on Normal, and I have hot water for it. Need a half tub rinse. Run a load with no detergent. I just have to remember to put the faucet back on cold after the tub initially fills for any load I do. Yeah. I shouldn't have to do this, but it is what it is. It's a great washer if one is willing to do these extra steps. I hope the newer model of this is only overriding the Normal. The temperature control for the deep water washes didn't seem to be restricted on my older model. In fact the auto temp control is nice because it adjusts for seasons using more warm water in winter and less in summer where incoming water is cooloer or hotter--this is for deep water washes only. It seemed to use tap hot for hot. I even tested mine above the recommended 120 installer per manufacturer's instructions. It is only that normal cycle, which I used a lot, why I had to hook the hoses up different.

Honestly. I am sure there were good intentions behind these water-saving requirements, but they weren't well thought out or actually researched. Really. They should have had someone that actually uses these explore these options before making them mandatory. Without work arounds, they may require more water (that small load of whites where the only half load is cold only), running the load again (not enough water or wash time), smaller loads so there is enough water (more electricity), more chemicals (to compensate for lack of water temp or less wash time), etc. The biggest glaring reminder of these is all the yard ornaments I see on porches, yards, etc. They only last a few years now IF you are lucky and use them carefully. They wind up in landfills and not recycled because they are too expensive to repair (labor and parts) for most. They took a situation and made it worse!

If I had gotten another front load, I would have looked at the LG turbo or there is a GE that my daughter really likes too.
 
@pinkpower4

Normal Eco is indeed the over-ride setting. However some people as well as @agiflow have stated that it does this on other cycles. What is the point then of having the water level selector, to fool dumb consumer into thinking they have control?

I ordered an LG front loader WM5500 and am disappointed at the water usage. It is significantly less over a top loader and IMO it looks like the clothes are barely wet. It keeps taking in some water and then draining it. I think I will take my chance with the GE and hopefully the water selector actually works. I will first try to repair my direct drive and hope everything is fixed with the new transmission and bearings.

I am certain these issues are coming from the California regulations. The manufactures are not going to create different machines for the rest of the country and we all have to suffer for the yahoos in CA. I am not saying to conserve water but when your clothing has to to have so much perfume in the soap to mask the BO, there is a problem.
 
Even the lid instructions on the Maytag commercial. Tell you this about using the normal cycle. How it works with your selection for optimal performance. I forget exactly what it says but that's the gist of it. In other words, it overrides what you choose. It's the way they word it without being direct.
Why the heck are these people lying to us?
 
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