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On second look I think you are right, it is 1939 all the way. The clothes, the hair style, definitely the toaster. And the "GRILL" logo all 1930's. Imagine the developments if there was no War.    

Ummm thats an interesting question John, we will test that theory when I get the mechanism all together again. My gut tells me oil does not reach the upper mechanism in spin because part of the pumping is due to the agitate shaft and trunnion pumping during wash. The oil pump is not powerful...

This is what makes this club fun! Ben's Frigidaire Persuader pounds through the tuff jobs~! Tunes provided by Marantz! Thank you Ben and Robert for finding the Doctrine on this tool !   Nothing can resist the Persuader- IT must Comply !        

I realize the nasty find I put up didn't show the location of the detergent crust blockage to the oil pump so I have enhanced the photo with my crude skills in PS. The pink is the blockage inside the mechanism base.    

Louis

Ben Good point about never spinning a dry mechanism, that oil is designed to flow down and out so after being stopped a day I would always agitate the unit before ever attempting a dry spin !!  I see Robert slapping in the spin dial and wafting away all the time- "oo look its doing 1140"! BAD...

TAP TAP TAP I have a care package arriving from a good friend today........It has the "persuader" inside !!

LOUIS! are we "Bitter- Table for one"?? LOL

Yes the redesign was made due to the pump finger springs' fatigue and snapping in half inside the oil pump. I have seen two units with snapped pump finger springs. I had read and I think Robert has found it in that piece of Doctrine that it was for the heavily used commercial machines but the...

Upon reassembly make note of the bottom of the pump plate, there will be either an "X" or "O" stamped, this must be oriented to between the outlet ports and they must be oriented to emerge under the solenoid. You won't get the screws back in place to hold the pump plate. B<span...

Another tip for easy extraction and future disassembly is Anti-Seize. I apply this to the motor shaft before the fan and impeller assembly. 

On assemlby of the pump you want to take extra precautions as its a real pain to work on PERIOD. What I do is clean all mating surfaces, then I apply a coat of rubber cement to all surfaces that contact the mounting sides of gaskets. See the pick, cement under the rubber face seal, rubber...

Wow after all the company here is an update Speaking to Ben I decided -prudently NOT to skip the disassembly of the brake plate. Good thing most of the crud was between the plates! Not a nice way to start out a new charge of lube-0-matic oil is it??   Todays' job careful gasket cutting...

YAY Love Seal All !!! TOO!   Ive just updated my work too.

OMG! Thank heavens Us Bostonians are Fastidious!! My Bull Terriers wouldn't ever let that bowl sit closed for more than ten minutes- believe me! My mom had that same shopping list with pegs, lasted 10 years before all the pegs broke or were vacuumed up by the monstrous Kirby!  

NASTY FIND I've reworked many UNIMATICS but none that had water intrusion. What I found today was nasty and it was in such a small spot I couldnt take a picture so I'll have to describe it and use Doctrine.      Opening up the oil pump I found water + detergent crud !!! Disassembly revealed...

QC- PASSED Nutator,  passes hand manipulation.                  https://youtu.be/1Rw842jkMzc             

HA! Just learned something I didnt know that thingy on the tranny below the solenoid was not a drip pan but  a SPARK CATCHER !!     

Next up the the Rusty clutch assembly. Tomorrows job. Once its all back together, I will fill it with MMOIL and let it run a few hours, then drain! MMOIL unsized my BMW engine when I did the same and then that engine ran to 320,000 miles. You should have seen what drained out!  Magic!

For reassembly You have to align the taper holes correctly, on the crankshaft and crank gear, inserting the taper when the parts are loose will tell you the orientation. Assemble in the cage and you can drive the taper in. Then you have to stake the hole so the taper stays in.  The final test...