Club Exercise- Track along with me to discover

[jetcone]

The Frigidaire Motor Failure! I have disassembled Eddie's WO-65-2. Much to my surprise its practically brand new! I have never seen the mounting screws with zero rust, have not opened a  machine that had the diverter AND speed bumper in Mint original condition. 

The machine seized on Eddie one day and never did laundry again.

 

I will post clues and pictures. I haven't opened the sacred mechanism yet so at this point you will know as much as I do.

 

1. Mechanism frozen

2. Tub will not turn in either direction

3. Water Bellow is intact

4. Oil collected at the bottom of the vent

5. Spin solenoid dry as a bone

6. It appears the tranny bell is seized to the shaft of spinning

 

I am predicting CMF= Chuffing Motor Failure . Stay tuned the tranny bell is gonna have to soak at least overnite. It ain't goin nowhere.

[this post was last edited: 9/24/2020-14:57]

 

[swestoyz]

Mint speed bumper? wow!

Seeing the few brown chunks on the tub spacer remind me of the after effects of water getting into the mechanism. The '58 tear down from last year found a pin hole in the oil bellows that was slowly letting water in the mechanism, with the water bellows having ballooned. The flange on the tub had a small break in the metal that was also letting water through. Were there traces of oil on the outside of the oil bellows? Up under the tub support?

The tub not moving is a whole other issue. Maybe the motor, as you suspect? It would take something breaking inside the mechanism to physically interfere with it rotating.

Can't wait to see what the prognosis is from Dr. Frigidaire!

Ben[this post was last edited: 9/25/2020-11:53]

 

[jetcone]

Well Ben is on the money

Got the bell off today! FWIS- Frigidaire Water Intrusion Syndrome! Whole mechanism locked up!

 

 

[Unimatic1140]

Oh yes I've seen that before too. At least it can be restored with little or no new parts. The upper spin bearing will have to be replaced but those are still available thankfully as they are a standard roller bearing.

 

[jetcone]

Ben

I might need that bearing tool. The spin bearing is seized, which is why the tub was locked solid. Mechanism disassembly begins today, I have reviewed doctrine to refresh my mind. We are going in People!

 

 

[yogitunes]

OH, a thread of KNOWLEDGE......finally, thank you Jon!

there are so few vids of watching the internals of this mechanism in action....

can't wait to see more....keep us posted.....

 

[gansky1]

Doesn't look too bad inside, it should clean up nicely. Bellows Failure Syndrome only happened on one of my Unimatics, oily water everywhere - all out of that vent tube.

You don't have a bearing tool? How can that be, isn't that requirement for a doctorate in Frigidaire?

 

[swestoyz]

This is as far as I got through mid March, right before everything came to a screeching halt. Not sure when I’ll get back to the shop to finish the back side (machine reliefs in to secure a wrench to it.)

You might be able to double nut on the back side and strike with the clamped nut.

Ben

 

[jetcone]

Ben

can you use a hammer on that tool for impact??

 

 

[jetcone]

Okay we have some updates

The transmission and motor and pump were seized. I was in luck in that there was enough play I could get the trunnion, crankshaft off the motor drive pin! 

 

You can see the rust crust here and you have know that the oil galleys will be clogged!  Gawd knows what Eddie was using for detergent the pump galleys were completely cemented up! 

 

 

[jetcone]

All apart

My assessment is all parts that can be completely disassembled will be and hopefully the motor safety tripped and no burn out there , testing that comes after the mechanicals.  The crank mechanism is jamming in one spot. 

 

 

[this post was last edited: 10/1/2020-11:38]

 

[jetcone]

Today I got the entire crankmechanism out and apart

except for the nutator/oscillator, the drift pin will not budge. So some overnite thought on the subject made me remember the magic of Marvel Mystery Oil to clean the oil galleys out. 

I was able to remove the taper pin in the crank gear which gave me access to the internal oil galley and was able to flood that with MMOIL as you can see my suspicions were confirmed. In the drain oil you can see rust particles that were clogging the oil galley and better still while cranking the nutator/oscillator MMOIL was able to grind out the carbon in the bearing as I could not get that apart. Its obvious the mechanism was under strain due to lack of lubrication. The bearing surfaces show carbon from oil burning. You have get as much as that off as possible. Luckily flooding MMOIL down the nutator while cranking it fine fine carbon came out and it now does not bind. 

 

 

 

[jetcone]

Here are some examples of carbon burn

The crank gear bearing, and the nutator pin. Before and after, I used 400 grit to start and finished with 1500 for a mirror  polish.

 

[jetcone]

For reassembly

You have to align the taper holes correctly, on the crankshaft and crank gear, inserting the taper when the parts are loose will tell you the orientation. Assemble in the cage and you can drive the taper in. Then you have to stake the hole so the taper stays in. 

The final test is to be able to nutate the trunnion causing the crankshaft to turn, if you can do that by hand then its good to go. We have a Pass!

 

[jetcone]

Next up the the

Rusty clutch assembly. Tomorrows job. Once its all back together, I will fill it with MMOIL and let it run a few hours, then drain! MMOIL unsized my BMW engine when I did the same and then that engine ran to 320,000 miles. You should have seen what drained out!  Magic!

 

[jetcone]

HA! Just learned something I didnt know

that thingy on the tranny below the solenoid was not a drip pan but  a SPARK CATCHER !! 

 

 

 

[jetcone]

QC- PASSED

Nutator,  passes hand manipulation.

 

               https://youtu.be/1Rw842jkMzc             

 

[jetcone]

NASTY FIND

I've reworked many UNIMATICS but none that had water intrusion. What I found today was nasty and it was in such a small spot I couldnt take a picture so I'll have to describe it and use Doctrine. 

 

 

Opening up the oil pump I found water + detergent crud !!!

Disassembly revealed a completely blocked oil supply galley, from the baseplate feeding the oil pump, not only was this unit water logged but it was not getting any oil at all !

 

The plug was on the 90-degree bend in the mechanism base- on the right of the crankshaft where the screen enters the center galley.

 

[jetcone]

Wow after all the company here is an update

Speaking to Ben I decided -prudently NOT to skip the disassembly of the brake plate. Good thing most of the crud was between the plates! Not a nice way to start out a new charge of lube-0-matic oil is it??

 

Todays' job careful gasket cutting, cleaning of pump and matching reasembly of pump - which to a newbie can be daunting. First the holes are NOT symmetrical! So the gasket only goes on one way, the pump plate also, and the pump housing can be screwed on any old way --NEVER!! the outlets must emerge under the solenoid control block in order to face the hoses and outlets. So follow along people for more tricks to UNI-LIVING! 

 

Trick no 1 which most people will miss due to corrosion is the staking of the impeller bolt in the impeller. This is done at the factory to prevent the bolt from loosening in service and causing "terminal fan rattling and water leaks". However you just can't remove the bolt and put it back in as it will not seat properly in the countersunk hole and then it will loosen and you will have leaks and rattling fans! Now I will concede none of this procedure will guarantee a leak proof rebuild, after all these are 70 years old now and made of pot metal. But these tips will help you along the road to no leaks thats for sure and they are learned after 30 years of working on these units! 

 

Below you will see the staking marks in the impeller, before reinstall you have to grind down the burr created by the staking to allow the bolt to seat properly. What I do is grind VERY SLIGHTLY as this is pot metal and then use thread locker on the impeller bolt, then once assembled I try and reproduce a stake or two. On this assembly I'm trying something new too, I am applying rubber cement to the countersink to help seal the bolt head from water intrusion. 

 

In #4 you can see I've ground the burr down.