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of the pump you want to take extra precautions as its a real pain to work on PERIOD. What I do is clean all mating surfaces, then I apply a coat of rubber cement to all surfaces that contact the mounting sides of gaskets. See the pick, cement under the rubber face seal, rubber cement between the same rubber seal and bearing face seal, rubber cement along the pump body. Note in the 3rd photo I am only showing the cement I used, I only put oil on the face seal that is exposed near the pick.  I also oil all seal faces before assembly. 

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Upon

reassembly make note of the bottom of the pump plate, there will be either an "X" or "O" stamped, this must be oriented to between the outlet ports and they must be oriented to emerge under the solenoid. You won't get the screws back in place to hold the pump plate. B<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; font-weight: normal;">ecause the pump body can go back in willy nilly to the mechanism the exit ports need to be under the solenoid or -</span> you'll have a nightmare trying to connect the hoses - I  know-  I DID many moons ago .  

 

Regardez le photo du mechanism dans post

<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: small;">Post# 1091624</span></span>

[this post was last edited: 10/13/2020-13:23]

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The OIL test is in!

Here is the video of the Oil Test, today. My Assistant is Rudy Lu, expert photographer. We have shown that for the first time Mother Superior is correct. The mechanism does pump oil in Spin. To my surprise for sure ! So Spin your Units All Day Long People.

 

 

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wow new discovery

I was installing the new spin bearing and noticed the flanges had gunk on the surfaces. Got out my gasket scraper and went to work. What I thought was old gasket shellac turned out to be carbonized gasket !

 

This mechanism got so hot it burned the cork! 

 

I had to chip it off both surfaces.

 

These things were built I can tell you.

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So some big hurdles solved today

One always tries to keep a neat work bench BUT towards the end One can get impatient and One can find a whole series of problems crop up. I had the latter !  Look at that bench !

 

Jeb in trying to help part out this machine , cut all the wires to the timer. However that wasnt a bad thing it forced me to upgrade this machine to the 1970 1-18 Standard so the top is now removable from the cabinet. 

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I set up all the components on the bench

for a full test . I found once I did that --- there was NO Power to anything. After testing each component for run capability you put it all together and get BLAHHHH-NADA! 

 

 

Found out our little club member  "Edna" was a tad aggressive with this machine when it died. He must have jammed the YU motor protector switch in so far it bent the contacts inside so they no longer made contact. So these are NASTY switches to disassemble and work in, they are like spring loaded many small part jack in the boxes ! BOING it all comes apart. You really need to know what you are doing! Fortunately this wasn't my first Rodeo!  

 

Tweaking the contacts forward from their "jammed' position and bingo the YU switch works. Fortunately though I have a club member who is zooming another NIB just incase.  You can see the guts of the switch, the little ratchet that engages the copper tang. As the motor overloads the copper bends under heat and boing the switch is freed to disengage. This is the first one Ive see that works this way, much better the originals had a lead pot that melted letting the ratchet release but that lead system had 3 -4 cycle life IF the whole thing didnt get too hot. If it did the lead all melted out to the bottom and you could never get it to engage again. 

 

 

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Greg and I nattered this morning

while I was able to run a complete cycle with all components hooked in and running perfectly. Timer motor, switches, hot/warm water valve, spin solenoid. She is ready to go back into the machine.

 

Can't do much laundry in that machine with the tub all the way down !!

 

I have seen many mechanisms with that exact "ok" mark. Someone was paid to chalk that on thousands of mechanisms at the end of the line! Can you imagine - whistle blows , you start Ok-ing , whistle blows for lunch, and then at 5 you  mark your last mechanism for the day. I wonder who,, he or she was???

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Now to reassembly

First the cabinet. This machine was exposed to hard water, we don't have that in eastern  MA but it could have come from the western part of the state in the Berkshires. So does anybody remember where Eddie got this machine??  The water hoses reveal that hard water, was supplying the machine.

 

The hard water chips away at the enamel, as you can see by the mounting holes in the bulkhead. This has exposed the steel to rusting. A good brushing with steel wool and then a coat of Rust Extend will give this years of life.

 

 

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A little ZEP

and elbow grease goes along way.

 

In cleaning up I see this machine is in superb shape. It even still had the copper filter screen in the fill flume, and since it was so low use I learned it is copper not stainless steel or brass. 

 

With the removal of all that crud it will smell sweet when washing and rinsing. The detergent fragrance will be stronger too. One of my fav steps in a restoration the cleaning of the catch tub, the forbidden dirt one never sees!!

 

 

 

 

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