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This dryer needs less venting on 120 volts. Save some energy, save some money and save some time. There seems to be less lint on less heat. tell "U eL" I'm not, and so very glad to not be eligible for military evils Dean Wormer

And another thing I'm bothered by- the BLOWER FAN. Seems like it would be incredibly easy to have it removable from the BACKSIDE alone, WITHOUT taking the machine all the way apart, front and back. Very SUSPICIOUS in my mind at least- too stupid actually to be just an oversight. They don't...

Yes- but again- You are posting an image and text about a GAS dryer- and talking as if there's some USUAL amount of heat- and I chose that word instead of "normal"- when in this dryer on 120 volt current- there's almost NO heat- nothing HOT - just a little bit WARM- well UNDER cutoff temp-...

I rethought of the other idea I had earlier and forgot: possible drillings in the blower duct above the blower- they could be screened maybe , or even slightly spacing the duct away from the body with something- leaving a sliver of air leak- THESE solutions would be easy to do and fairly easy...

NOW after watching a couple of videos about replacing the blower wheel- I'm doubting that I'll do anything to the fins- or at least NOT with a new blower wheel- because the replacement involves taking the dryer completely aprt- from both sides- the drum out belt off- turning nuts on the motor...

In fact blocking the end vent may not have a good effect- while the heat so far is far from dangerous and the lint level nil- it would create a blow back and still the blades would catch as much air resistence- I'll probably reduce the fins in some way- that simply will lower the exhaust...

I this thread the owner of this machine thinks the fins got ground down from rubbing against the cover- but I wonder if they've been broken or ground down by someone trying to reduce the velocity of the exhaust- again- not my picture- from another thread here (link) Wish mine was the color of...

Alright- I respect your view but I'm still not sure if its right- as I said above- the drum isn't airtight- I have a lot of doubt about how much air is actually pulled past the coil by the dryer blower at the other end of the exhaust vent- then there is also that HOLE at the top of the heating...

The extra screen idea is for the lint filter, not the blower- and I disagree with most of your post- and I think less heat will at least DISLODGE less lint, if not make less of it. Heat will get it more airborn, so lets see if we can get some to FLY! Anyway I just finished a load- a smaller...

These larger asian units claim a weight of 44 lbs- while the Kenmore is an entire 100 lbs- How do they do it? anyone have one of these? Are they strong enough? I doubt they vent as much air, but just guessing- the Space Saver really blows it out the drum!

It's as much in my mind at least that it's just blowing the lesser heat right out of it- it's costing power and that costs me time and money. If it were taxes being spent- people would hang for it- but it's just coprporations eating up your own income by not making an adjustment over something-...

I've got 120v HEAT going now! It's still just jumped with my own 3 prong female to two prong 120 adapter- so I'm going to change the whole cord out when I get a suitable replacement- though I have lots of fresh NM 12g wire I could just wire to a plug- so that may happen- i think it would be...

Done some research now- here's my macine basically, the same cabinet ans size I think but sold as a 110/120v unit- it is 3.4 cubic feet otherwise- so larger than the asian units but much more expensive new- used ones ARE out there quite a bit I think, for much less- I paid $75 for this one two...

OK- I'm not going to keep running all this into the ground- but may dredge it up as I tinker more. Below is a link to the best discussion on LINT I could find on the net- (I've only more got the feeling that the manufacturers are sort of avoiding the issue as it relates to this discussion of...

Here's a 110 machine on my local craigslist: and some pictures of it apart- but none of the blower or ducts- so go figure. Cleared some garage space around the nachine today- and may take the back cover off soon- is I decide to wire it 110- I'd probably replace thechord with the really old 3...

I'm just using common terms 110 for 110/120 Volt and 220 for 220/240 volt I guess- I think the names have changed through the years- the difference being whether one or two 110/120 volts wires are hooked to something I see them advertised on craigslist and ebay as 110v. I guess they are more...

OK- good that tells me something- Thank you I've been watching videos about it all on youtube I think the way to go at this point may be just to get it running on 110 and see how it goes- cutting down on the airflow would probably be practical, but I'm wondering if it's worth the risk- I'm...

Had some dinner and looking at this further- So I see this motor (link below) and the blower wheel with fins is attached directly to the motor, and shrouded by a plastic assembly that directs the air- So then if this is typical, there's little chance of "changing gears" or any pulley sizes to...

Okay looking at this all some more- I've been perusing replacement motors on ebay- all 110- 120 volt and all seem to run at 1725 rpms- 5.5 amps is thrown out there a lot- not sure how that relates to watts and how much wattage the motor pulls below is a link to a motor and blower overhaul...

Ooooooh. INSPIRATION! Another idea! What if I can simply SHROUD the blower unit itself? That won't itself result in any more lint buildup in the vent pipe I think- it would only reduce the airflow and allow the temps to increase in the unit as it operates- This may make the idea more viable!