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Could be any number of things but I'm betting the wire that jumps from the hi limit thermostat to the heat element terminal has burnt off. Reset your AC panel breaker. Make sure you have 240vac to the unit. Check resistance of heat coil (8-12 ohms). Check continuity of high limit thermostat...

As warned, don't go over 1/16" thick. The flange on the short rubber tub outlet hose is sandwiched between the tub and the baseplate. If your washers are too thick, you won't get a good seal there and it's going to leak.

For the direct drive, check the 3 horizontal tub suspension springs and the one vertical spring in the back. It's common for the lower mounting hole for the vertical spring to rust out and release the spring. Just drill a new hole if that is what has happened. If they check ok, then you may need...

They started making these in 2010. The MVWC200XW0 came out in 2010. The Whirlpool mid-line models (5500x 5600x 5700x) started production in April of 2010, Maytag in May of 2010. The Whirlpool entry level (4800x 4900x 4950x) in September of 2010. This is from a Whirlpool VMW product introduction...

You got a model number for that Maytag Centennial?

"do no invert in cold/hot inlet. You'll end up with a flimsy spray rince due to the hot water restrictor since spray rinces are cold (spray rince could already be longer/better than what it is now) and that will make you want to use a 2nd rince." The spray function is actually during the spin...

With the 3 wire cord, was there a jumper between the center stud (neutral) to the metal cabinet? There should have been. Either a wire or metal strap. If not, check continuity between the center stud and metal cabinet. Possibly the metal strap in the photo that runs under the terminal block...

Interesting, and thanks for the info. I was right about the how, but had no clue as to why you would want to bump the motor. Seems like quite the overkill but without having seen firsthand how well it does it's intended job, what do I know.

Don't have this dryer but trying to figure out what the momentary switches on the wiring diagram are for and where they are located. Saw a photo showing a normal lever operated door switch but there was another button type switch below that. Is that the momentary switch? Are there two of them or...

Try cleaning your sensor bars or just unplug the connector to them and see if dryer will now shut off. The dryness control board is used to shut the dryer off in both timed and auto dry. If the bars are shorting out, the control board can't function properly and the dryer will not shut off...

"I believe what he meant to say is that no manufacturer ever decided at the design phase to produce a machine that would positively index the tub." Well, the tub in a VMW machine moves back and forth significantly during the wash cycle and it is obviously designed to do this. Whether you can...

"No Washer manufacturer ever set out to design a washer tub that indexed during agitation" So, your saying the Whirlpool VMW (DD replacement), whose tub indexes significantly due to the planetary gearing and no braking at all, is not designed to do that?

Possible faulty timer. Timer contact YL to GY must be closed to power drive motor. Check drum lamp with door open to confirm good power cord.

Just be warned, the part where he shows replacement of the agitator cam and cam follower, he has the parts on in reverse order. It ain't gonna work that way and several people on other appliance forums have found that out the hard way. I contacted him a long time ago about this but never got a...

I'm sure he said, or meant to say, "basket drive", not basket drain. He may have been refering to the centerpost bushings (plain type of bearing) that the basket drive tube rotates within. Replacing those is a huge job.

No clue where that water is coming from. Would have to run the machine with the cabinet off to figure that out.

In gentle cycle agitation, check for 120vac at motor connector orange wire. Pull on that wire to make sure it is not broken at connector. If you don't have power there, it's the timer. If you do have power at orange wire, then either the connection at the connector terminal is faulty or the...

Lid switch on this model only affects drain/spin, not agitation cycle. Definitely have a gas leak there and should keep gas off to that dryer. Need to do a soap bubble leak test to determine if it's leaking at gas line connection to valve assembly. If not, replace the valve assembly. Catastrophe...

You said the washer was totally dead, no sounds at all no matter where the timer was set. This is an electrical problem. The clutch would have no effect on that. You should not normally be able to freely rotate the basket as the brakes are applied anytime the washer is not in spin mode. Sounds...

How about a model number??? That way, I can look at a wiring diagram and be more certain as to a diagnosis or advice.