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Westinghouse slant front dryers were lower air output I believe which is why they dry fairly quickly. In a conversation with Paul up in Canada, he mentioned his Westinghouse slant front dryer could literally dryer 4 pairs of jeans in 20 minutes time with its 4500 watt heat output on a 30 amp...

Not extremely versed with the direct drives, but my guess is it could be some sort of transmission problem.

Personally, I find a thermostat to work just as well as a moisture sensor since it essentially provides the same results without any additional complexity.

Whirlpool uses a power dropping resistor to drop the voltage down to the timer, when the cycling thermostat opens or the high limit thermostat, it completes a circuit and sends power to the timer motor. A little more complicated to understand than a double throw switch thermostat which is a...

For being a ‘new’ AW forum, it seems as though some people brought their old ways onto the new site. Since this is basically a new site (not entirely, but is in some ways), decided it was time to put my old combative, argumentative ways behind me. Going to be more diplomatic in discussions on...

Here’s one thing to note, on some of the Kenmore High Speed and Soft Heat dryers from the early to mid 1960’s, timed drying was more than enough since it would begin to taper the heat down once it reached a certain temperature. If you were drying a small load in a Kenmore Soft Heat gas dryer and...

Timed drying may be simpler, unfortunately you can at times set the timer for not enough time, or set it for too long which can lead to over drying in some cases. Never had a problem with the auto dry on my Maytag DE806, would shut off at the dryness selected. Still have to use my Whirlpool...

This is why I would read over various threads in the archives since there’s almost always something new to be learned, always.

That’s to hold the filter in place to the rear panel. Maytag HOH’s up until 1964 had a filter on the rear panel to dry things in clean filtered air as a way to prevent airborne dust from being re-deposited onto clean laundry and to prevent dust and lint from being drawn into the cabinet.

Heat pump dryers may be a lot more efficient, but the thing that’s not mentioned in the fine print is the maintenance and repairs that will be needed eventually. Efficiency is all fun and games until it nickels and dimes one’ in maintenance and repairs which completely circumvents and negates...

Pre 1966 Whirlpool 29” top filter dryers and Maytag HOH’s. Some people might argue about how the older Whirlpool 29” dryers were slower with the design of the bulkhead behind behind the drum perforations and while that is true if you were to jam them full, but since it doesn’t have that lint...

That’s an easy one, when GM stopped making appliances for Frigidaire.

This sounds kind of ludicrous, but sometimes I think if machines (mainly top loaders) only had a 8 to 9 pound capacity, you’d be forced to fill the machine all the way up with the smaller capacity tub. Bigger capacity machines aren’t always better, there’s no way I’d be able to use the entire...

Reminds me of a Mark 18 console I translated onto my ‘63 Whirlpool washer, did the same with the dryer as well. They currently reside in my laundry room as I type this.

Final update: got it hooked up to 240v and it works as I would expect. Auto dry feature even works as well to my surprise, will dry to completion depending on the amount of dryness selected.

Haven’t hooked it up to 240v yet, but usually test on 120v to make sure everything is working correctly, if it works on 120v, should work on 240v just fine. Not sure if you noticed, but have two variable pulleys (one on the blower shaft, another on the motor) which I can calibrate and can...

Here’s an update: everything is now completely functional, dryer stops when you open the door, works as intended. The only idiosyncrasy of it is the drum light doesn’t come on in the off position, but comes on when the timer is moved from the off position along with the console light, oh well...

Unfortunately, the 2 speed tumbling feature didn’t work since I couldn’t mount the cable to that tumble speed selector, so I decided to use the ‘speed selector’ to control the heating elements. As for the moisture sensor being grounded through a thermostat, that was the only way to get the auto...

It’s for the 1000 watt element (4600 watts when the 1000 watt element is switched off, 5600 watts when both elements are on), may be a little overboard, but figured it was better to have a contactor switch the element off then using a momentary toggle switch which off the lower wattage element...

This may be overkill, but added a contactor to turn the lower wattage heating element on and off. Could have used a relay, but decided to go the extra mile while I was at it and before I put it back into service next week.