1950 Plymouth

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That only happened to me once with the GMC while taking the Waldo Grade in the downhill direction, most of the time with my foot off the gas.  The shift lever was seriously vibrating, and then it just popped into neutral on its own.

 

 
 
My 42 Jeep used to do that in second gear but it was a 3 speed top loader like all ww2 and flat fender jeeps.
There was a bushing or something, maybe a syncro, that always wore out on them. I had a better used tranny put in it and they swapped around the best parts and less then a year later it was doing it again.
The 41 power wagon I also had had a much stronger drivetrain and the tranny never had any issues, it was a non syncro 4 speed crash box and was damn near unbreakable as long as you knew how to double clutch.
 
There is probably a procedure for dialing in the linkage setting so they don't pop out of gear or clash. It would be in your service manual, which you have, of course!

 

And here is a link to a wholesale closeout of various 1950 Plymouth parts:

 


 

 
Yes

I have the service manual (with my greasy fingerprints on it) LOL.
No more issues with it popping out of gear...however now it's making a noise that I fear is a transmission bearing..
On my last nerve with this old girl, so she's going to sit for a while. If I find that it's a overhaul, then I'm done. I'll put her up for adoption! Losing my patience with old cars.
 
Like I said, these transmissions are very simple affairs and not rocket science to rebuild. The bearings are likely standard and readily available off the shelf or online. That is, if the noise is actually a transmission bearing and not dragging brakes.

 

However the idea that old cars last forever is a myth. They were designed when labor was cheaper than advanced materials so they typically require much more maintenance than newer cars. Softer alloys, less durable rubber, more primitive lubricants, etc. So we tend not to drive them as often or as far or as fast as new cars, and save them for special days.

 
 
O.K

This old girl has sat a while and I'm ready to deal with this noise. It sounds like something in the driveline. Almost like a dried out u joint? Im going to get greasy.. get under her and see what I can see. If I get it up on blocks maybe turn by hand I'll hear this noise and hear exactly where it's coming from.
@cuffs I'll be wearing a dew rag for this, so your going to get your wish, a dirty hairy greasy man under a car! LOL
 
a dirty hairy greasy man under a car

After that visual, if I were within closer range I'd be happy to assist.  I could use a change of scenery after dealing with the brakes on the Jimmy without the desired outcome, and I have successful experience with a Rambler driveshaft under my belt.  

 

Those among us who know me know just how I mean that . . .

 
 
The '50 Plymouth, unless changed out, has ball and trunion U-joints fore and aft, also called Detroit U-joints. These can and do wear out. Most frequently the rubber sleeve covering the U-joint ages and cracks or tears. Then the grease inside can be lost or contaminated.

 

Inside the U-joints is a smaller shaft, with a ball on the end. The ball is bisected by a trunion pin. On the trunnion pin ends two more balls are fitted, which ride on needle bearings so they can rotate on the pin. The whole assemble then rides inside a heavy cast and machined housing, which has grooves to accept the needle bearing equipped trunion balls. So the U-joint can flex in the with regard to the driveline radial direction as well as move in and out in the driveline axial direction.

 

Proper rebuilding of the Detroit U-joint, including replacement of the rubber sleeve, involves pressing out the trunnion pin on a big hydraulic press. An automotive machine shop should have one, but you might have to look around for a machinist or mechanic willing to press out the pin and/or rebuild the U-joint.

 

When you get under the car you can inspect the rubber sleeves for integrity, and see if the driveshaft can be moved by hand forward and backward. If not, it might be seized up.

 

Usually the noise, I'm told, is a loud clunk when going over bumps and/or under load.

 

What I've seen is that the heavy machined casting that the trunnion runs in develops wear spots where the trunnion balls usually ride. Or there's a rubber sleeve/lubrication failure.

 

It's not too difficult to pull the driveshaft with the U-joints attached, but of course it's dirty uncomfortable work on your back under a car jacked up and on stands. (Don't rely only on jacks!). After that fixing the damn Detroit U-joints is no picnic, and pressing out the trunnion pin can be dangerous involving very high pressures. Pressing in a new pin requires a careful technique, because you want it to be centered on receiving ball. One mechanic who pressed mine in machined a spacer so that the pressing would stop at the right point.

 

Have fun.

 
 
Thanks Rich

For that info.
Got side tracked with other repairs, so haven't got to the Plymouth yet.
I've set aside time on Monday to get dirty. Also want to look at the e brake
 
Decided to update this thread

Don’t know where the 6 years has gone!
So the noise turned out to be worn needle bearings in the trany
I went on driving the car around twin. The sound was evident only in first gear. Clutch was slipping in third gear then Finally the starter took a shit.
New starter
New clutch (pics of old) and new parts for tranny except sncro gear. (Couldn’t find one and mine was kind of o.K.
New brakes and wheel cylinders. And fresh tune up (rotor cap points plugs) new battery.
All well but still can’t drive it cuz the SOB sprung a radiator leak!
Though you boys might want to see.

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I'm a car nut so I like to see their innards.  My VW has 314,000 miles on it currently.  I kind of sort of have a feeling the dual mass flywheel is going out.  Still running original clutch!  All of that would get changed out if the above scenario does play out.  I'll be due for a timing belt and water pump in about 5500 miles.  I miss the simplicity of my old diesel Rabbit from 1980, but I can't complain about this 2001 bug that I bought new for my 30th birthday.
 
Interesting!

 

I also have a 1950 Plymouth, a "Special Deluxe". Her name is Bubbles. Part of the agreement so I could purchase her was to keep the name, LOL. I've had Bubbles for over 28 years. Used to drive her a lot. That clutch sure does look familiar.

 

I've replaced a lot of parts on Bubbles. Had the motor rebuilt - they didn't do a very good job, had to rebuild the motor again after about 2 years and 27,000 miles. The rings they put in were scoring the cyclinder walls. This time I pulled the motor myself and took it to a better machine shop.

 

She has a manual transmission (I don't think Plymouths had automatics in 1950), which works quite well. Found the little service book (had to go out to garage to fetch it).

 

Last time I drove Bubbles was in 2017. So she probably needs an oil change. Maybe a draining of the gas tank, too. IDK. Have to check coolant as well. And the battery may be dead. Such fun!

 

Yeah, I'm making plans to drive her again before this summer is out.
 
Clutch doesn't look bad at all, at least the material isn't worn down to the rivets, which is a good thing. I bet the slipping issue was weak pressure plate springs. Too bad about not locating new synchro's. You can extend the life of the 1st gear synchro by coming to a dead stop before shifting into first or blipping the throttle before shifting into first while rolling at slow speeds. The first method is the safest.
 
Reply number 74

Thanks Rich I was quite sure there was no Sysco in first gear in a 1950 Plymout.

 

When Jeff and I started this business in 1979 we went out and bought two short wheelbase dodge tradesman 1974 vans with 225 slant sixes and three speed on the column they didn’t even have synchromesh in first gear, it made it kind of challenging in traffic because you had to come to almost to complete stop or double clutch to get it back into first gear and my van didn’t have power steering or brakes somehow or another Jeff’s van actually had power brakes.

 

I also think it’s unusual that you’d have trouble with a bad clutch slipping in third gear usually a bad clutch slipping it’s hard to even get the car Up to speed in first or second gear with a bad clutch.

 

I almost never comment on anything if I’m not absolutely sure about.

 

John L
 
Rich is correct

No synchro for first. I’ve always has to come to a complete stop before shifting into first. And even with all this work done, I still double clutch going into second..shel shift normal but she likes it better if I double clutch. I issue going from second to third.
My issue now is getting her loose from reveres!
Somethings not quite right with linkage ?
Greg take care of your Bug!
Rich, don’t let Bubbles just sit there! She need exercise 😀
Here’s more pics

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