1952 Kelvinator Fridge Having Issues

[rp2813]

Not too long ago I mentioned in a refrigerator discussion that my '52 Kelvy would sometimes not kick in, but after a try or two, all was fine.  This had nothing to do with the door having been opened too long or anything like that. 

 

Now I've noticed something else.  This is a drinks fridge, and twice in the past week or so, the drinks have been barely cold.  Upon checking the freezer, there was no frost.  The compressor also sounded like it does when it hasn't been running for a while.  Today this happened again when I went to grab a drink, but the fridge did kick in after I closed the door, maybe because the heavy duty latching system jiggled something?  Eventually the fridge ran as quietly as it usually does and the freezer was frosting.  Drinks were cold again an hour or two later.

 

I'm wondering if this could indicate a bad cold control or something worse, like the curse of the fried run winding.  Any ideas on what might be the problem?

 

 

 

 

 

[combo52]

52 Kelvinator. [ the best year ]

Hi Ralph, sounds more like relay or possibility a cold control problem, If the run winding is bad it will either be slightly shorted to ground or be drawing higher that usual watts when running.

 

Does the evaporator have a even frost pattern after it has run for a good while ?

 

John L.

 

[turbokinetic]

Hi Ralph. The symptom you describe "..sometimes not kick in, but after a try or two, all was fine" really points to a start-relay problem; in my opinion.

The relay actuates once, each time the compressor switches on. This would happen once, each time the control turns on; or once when plugged in if already turned on.

If the relay is not making contact, the compressor will get power and make a humming noise, but not start. After a short time (few seconds) the compressor overload circuit breaker will trip. Each time the overload resets its self; the relay will get one more activation. So you can see that if the relay has become intermittent, it may take several overload trip / reset cycles before the relay finally makes contact and the compressor starts up.

If the run winding (or start winding) were bad, as John explained, those symptoms would not be intermittent. It would progress rapidly to failure.

 

[rp2813]

Thanks guys! 

 

There frost pattern is normal after the fridge recovers from its down time. 

 

This morning I heard it try to kick in and then go silent.  On the next try, it caught and has been running fine.  Frost was visible so it hadn't had any recent incidents.

 

That made me think that perhaps this could be a relay problem.  If it's that simple, I'll go get a Supco if one of those will work.  For as long as I've had this fridge (only since this past October), when it starts up there's about a second or two of delay and a low-pitched buzz or hum before the compressor kicks in.  Could that be an indicator of a failing relay?

 

As long as the wiring can be easily figured out, I can give a new relay a try.

 

[turbokinetic]

Yep that one or two second delay could be the relay not making contact!

I'm not completely familiar with this fridge, but if it has a start capacitor (some do but not sure about this one) IF the capacitor is weak, it can make it hard for the compressor motor to start up.

This comes to mind with the "delayed start" symptom you describe. The relay could do the same, but would likely not do it consistently as you describe. If a capacitor is weak, it would be weak every time.

 

[rp2813]

Hmmmmm.  David, it sounds like the capacitor could be the problem.  Is that a big deal to replace?

 

[turbokinetic]

If you have a capacitor, it's trivially easy to change. It's a large round part with two wires. Hopefully someone can confirm if you have one on that Kelvinator.

 

[rp2813]

I'll pull the fridge out and have a look.  Thanks David!

 

[rp2813]

I just got back late last night from spending a couple of beautiful days on the beach in Santa Barbara.  As I was emptying the cooler to put some beverages into the Kelvinator, I noticed that it wasn't cold inside and the freezer was completely defrosted.  For a couple of months the fridge had been behaving itself, but over the past three weeks or so, the tell-tale indicators of failing to cycle were back:  partial defrosting and a rattling sound while running, which presents itself whenever the fridge is in a serious recovery operation.

 

I turned the cold control in both directions and didn't hear any sort of clicking sound from it, so returned it to its dead-center "normal" setting.  I sighed and gave the door a good push to close and latch it, and the thing kicked in.  It's been running fine since.

 

Now I'm going to pull the fridge out and take a look around the back of it.  I'll see if there's anything that resembles the capacitor and check for any other suspect components or connections.  I've been scanning CL for vintage refrigerators since this all became an issue a few months ago and pickings have been slim and/or overpriced.   Unless capacitors are universal, my only option may be to replace the fridge.

 

[turbokinetic]

Thankfully, capacitors and start-relays are more or less universal. You do have to match them to the compressor ratings, but it doesn't have to be the same exact original type.

 

[rp2813]

Thanks David.

 

The fridge has been cycling fine all day.  What caused it to give up completely while I was out of town, I don't know.  Fortunately, it's a drinks fridge so nothing spoiled. 

 

I'll see if I can find time over the weekend to examine things if it doesn't go dead on me again before then.

 

The good thing is that I'm pretty sure this isn't a compressor issue.  It purrs along just as nicely as it has since I got it about a year ago, and I've not had to touch the cold control either (except for last night's attempt to get the compressor to kick in).

 

[goatfarmer]

Control stuck?