1955 Hotpoint stove

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dan....

no, that would be a "newer" model. I think John (coldspot) hit it, I think its a bad pushbutton switch ... I can still use the burner and it does work, but only the "inner" portion of it works.
 
Great looking range Greg! Am sure you will get everything working fine on that bad boy....

So you stepped up to the big 40 inch huh? I been telling you for years that size does matter, so now you know! <:
 
Greg, Congratulations on your beautiful new stove. I would protect the floor of that oven with foil or one of those heavy foil oven protectors that are sold with the disposable foil bake ware under the bake element before using it; just keep foil away from the receptacle for the bake element. I am not sure about this, but I think that silicone mats are sold for oven floors now also. They also come in a size for the bottom of a toaster oven also and can be cut to fit.

After one of the newspaper stories about out collection, a nice young couple called us about a stove they had in their basement. It was original to the house and although they remodeled the kitchen, they saved the stove down in the dry basement because they knew it was too nice to junk. It was in beautiful shape. It is like yours, but with a double oven and maybe an 8 inch rear element instead of the deep well. Our next door neighbor for a few years in the 50s had your single oven version, Greg, and it was the memory of that stove that made finding one like it one of my goals.

Greg, do both of the sections of the element heat on "3" and "warm"? If they do, it is not a broken wire, but the switch. On "3" both elements are in parallel on 110-120 and on warm, they are both in series on 110-120. High is 1600 watts on 250 volts, 1425 on 220. The other wattages at 250 volts are 640 watts on "2" when the inner coil is heated at 250 volts, 400 watts on "3" because the voltage is dropped from 250 to 110-120, Low is 160 watts which is 1/4 of 640, so the inner coil is switched to 110-120 on Low and Warm is 100 watts. I hope that you have a lot of fun with this range. It is a treasure.

What a neat radiator in the kitchen. A family friend used to put a folded towel on the dining room radiator and let the dough for the Parker House Rolls rise there, covered with a dish towel of course. Then after the meal, coffee was brewed in the glass Cory to go with dessert, usually her wonderful pound cake. They would actually let a 7 year old me stir the coffee in the top bowl! Later, while the adults talked, I would ask to be excused and walk down to the laundry room in their garden apartment complex. There was an old round Bendix and a 1956 GE washer. The Bendix had a red wavy line about 1/3 of the way up the glass and under it the words "suds level." For any of you who lived in the Decatur area, these were the brick apartments on Clairemont, just north of North Decatur Road. The whole thing was torn down to make way for high density development in the 90s, I think.
 
Tom ...

Tom, interesting enough "wm" and "3" do not work at all, the burner stays cold on either. Only "hi", "2" and "lo" work on the inner/inside coil. Maybe it is a bad wire and not the switch ???
 
Greg, I guess you are going to have to cut power to the stove and do some continuity testing between the burner leads and the switch. Actually, the back of the stove should be opened anyway to see if all of the wiring is OK.

You didn't by any chance save the elements you replaced did you? You can transplant the medalions with the colored enamel dots to the new elements. Then you would know what colors to put in the little chrome circles at the switches.

Your stove has just about everything except the second oven; plugs for both the deep fryer element and the griddle were pretty high end features. I always liked Hotpoint's use of pushbuttons for the oven settings. It kept dials to a minimum. Where your range has the minute timer, mine has the temperature dial for the second oven.

You say the clock and minute timer don't work. The minute timer might be electric. I guess if it does not tick when you turn the dial it is. Have you tried the non-timed appliance outlet? If it does not work either, check the 15 amp fuse probably hiding behind the storage drawer next to the oven.
 
I'm trying to remember but on my GE push-button stove I had a very similar problem. I replaced the element too but no luck. Anyway I looked around inside and a previous and hard to see rewire had crossed (mixed up) two of the wires going to the element.
 
thank you

THANK YOU all for your comments and helpful hints; I appreciate it .............
 
Greg, love your new stove. All of that crome, mmmm got a love it. I have a friend who is in the appliance, should i see what he thinks may be wrong with the burners? I can let you know if you want me to? He may be able to get parts maybe? Bye for now. Gary
 
Gary ...

Hi Gary, I think I am allset, I think its a "bad wire" and will try that, I also have a friend who has an extra "pushbutton(s) switch" ......... thanks very much for the offer :)
 

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