1960 something GE hotgas defrost problem

[carolinacat]

I have been scratching my head with this GE fridge. I cant seem to find a solenoid valve to work on here. The original one is potted. As such I could not dissect it to have it repaired. So I first went to a local re purpose appliance store and robbed a couple washer solenoids. I came home drilled the metal insert on one of them to fit the 3/8 stem on the hot defrost valve. No joy. I do not think it has a strong enough pull. It says it is 5w on the side of it. So a month goes by I finally decide to get another solenoid valve off of ebay. There are a lot to look thru. I decide to get an asco brand one. It has a 1/2 bore the other dimensions seem like they will fit as well. I machine some bushing to kinda duplicate the stock metal box thing. I make a jumper wire up. Use it so i can put it on there and pug it in the wall. I plug it in and it works. I hear the valve click. I unplug it then advance the fridge to the defrost cycle. Once the compressor is running I plug my jumper back in to the wall and feel the little line coming off the valve and it is warm. I fist pump the air ...great this is gonna work. After about a minute I smell something. The coil is hot. I unplug it and hang my head in failure. After it cools I check the amps. That coil is pulling about .9 amp on the stem. Next day i go to my buddy's shop in my local town. We take a half inch rod and check a coil that he has. Its drawing .1 amps maybe less. It does not get hot. I come home and machine a solid bushing in sections so i can again duplicate the stock metal can . Try it setup like the original. Then with a solid bushing taking up the entire length. Either way it gets hot as well. Its drawing .6 amps. Hang my head again. At his point I am kinda stumped. I don't know if they are to strong wattage or if i have some other issue. I wish I could find a burnt up orginal one that i could have rewound. Wondering why the original one is in the metal box and the bushing is not solid to fit the stem. Also the original wattage and how hot it got to.

pic description
1 washer solenoid
2 hot gas stem 3/8 diameter
3 Asco solenoid and bushings
4 Original coil
5 size comparison of coils
6 bushing stack
7 Non defrosting ole yeller

 

[sfh074]

This thread ....

may have some info:

https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?78293

 

[rp2813]

Here's another place to check for discussions that may contain useful information (you may have to join in order to search, though):

 

 

http://monitortop.freeforums.net/board/13/vintage-refrigators

 

[turbokinetic]

I fought that battle last year and it ended up that the new coil required its steel housing; plus the steel sleeve from the original coil inside the TOP of it.  The position of all the steel parts affects the magnetic action of the coil. 

 

Look for <span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Post# 1038778 , Reply# 26 </span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">in thread </span>https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?78293 for a picture of the new coil we used.

 

[carolinacat]

Hi all, thanks for the links I am familiar with all of those. I've gone over them several times trying to see if I could figure something else out as well. Im out of town the next few days and I will see what I can come up with when I get back home.