1998 Kenmore 70 series Suds Saver

[mt999999]

Hi all, I first posted about this washer here April 2020. I figured it was best to start a new thread at this point. I’ve ignored the issues, and they’ve progressed. I don’t want a non-suds saving model, and grandma ordered this one new, so time to fix this one. Poor thing is on its side now. I’ve pulled the diverter valve, as pictured. No one sells this part. It drains water out of both hoses, and pulls suds water in on the rinse cycle, which is very annoying. Amazingly, I found the FSP diaphragm gasket for $9, NOS, only one on eBay or anywhere; it is being shipped. I hope that does it. Blowing into either end and manually operating the solenoid seems to verify this is the issue. Lid switch failed a while ago, and I’ve had the wires jumpered with a pair of vice grips for a year. It shocked me today, so done with that also.

A few questions. While I’m about to tear into this thing, I might as well fix it right. What would be recommended to refurbish? The agitator dogs seem to function fine. It shimmies on the spin cycle. Worn springs? They all seem to be there. I think a tub bearing might be going out, maybe. It spins kind of noisy, but not terrible. Replace basket drive? Also, I’m assuming the clutch is worn. Sometimes it randomly won’t start spinning. I have to turn it on and off a few times to get going. If I don’t babysit the cycle, it sometimes finishes the load still full of water (rare). Just today, it seems to have a smallish leak under the front. Pump clip is rusty. Failing pump? Boy, problem after problem.

Sorry for the wall of text. I greatly appreciate insight from folks who are more experienced at these than I am. Thanks in advance for help and advice! Model: 110.26791691

 

[bazzybtec]

I am not familiar with the workings of the running gear on this machine however that Diverter valve appears to work in a similar way to the whirlpool ones.

I would check that solenoid is operating correctly. It can be purchased on its own and replaced. I would also check (before ordering the solenoid) that there is voltage at the active terminal attached to the solenoid when it is supposed to.

 

[mt999999]

Thanks! I can still hear the solenoid “clunk” when activated, if that makes a difference.

 

[jons1077]

Debris perhaps

These valves are very simple and use rubber diaphragms to seal off one port or the other. I would be willing to bet you either have a damaged rubber diaphragm or you have some debris causing it to not seal.

 

[combo52]

WP Suds-Saver Two-Way Valves

Yes Jon is correct, you either have something caught in the valve or a damaged rubber diaphragm, you might even be able to fix it with some of the wonderful sealants etc we have today.

 

Take it off the machine and take it apart and see.

 

John L.

 

[combo52]

WP Suds-Saver Two-Way Valves

Yes Jon is correct, you either have something caught in the valve or a damaged rubber diaphragm, you might even be able to fix it with some of the wonderful sealants etc we have today.

 

Take it off the machine and take it apart and see.

 

John L.

 

[mt999999]

Repaired

I bought a NOS rubber gasket on eBay, and put it into the diverter. The washer is all buttoned up, and I ran a load through. It seems to work fine when washing (it doesn't pull the reserved suds water back in), but it's still draining out of both hoses when it's sending the water through the drain/discard hose. In fact, I think it's draining even more water through the suds saver hose now; about the same volume through each hose. I can hear the solenoid activate, but perhaps the solenoid is worn out? I'm pretty sure I got it back together the same way, and it's not leaking.

Any ideas would certainly be welcome! Thanks in advance.

 

[combo52]

Whirlpool sudden saver valve problems

It’s not a bad solenoid,

This is just a simple valve you can test to see where the rubber is ceiling properly by blowing into the close port nowhere should go through, and then activate the solenoid completely with your hand and try blowing in the other port

You should be able to see why it’s not sealing I’m assuming the valve you have is new enough to be plastic the old aluminum valves used to corrode away and do this all the time but the plastic one should be fine.

Close-up pictures we might be able to tell you what’s wrong.

The rubber valve diaphragm may start to seal better after it sits for a while have you done a hot wash yet gotten some good hot water through with that Weibel can start working.

John L

 

[bradfordwhite]

There is this one on Ebay. One could make an offer.

To think YEARS AGO when I was refurb-ing I would usually rip the sudsvalves out and throw them into recycling.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274387905459?hash=item3fe2cb2bb3:g:AT0AAOSwB6Re2cq9

 

[bradfordwhite]

Depending on what the rubber insert is like one could get a generic piece of rubber, trace the gasket, cut out, and install.

Good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/Resistant-Th...ne=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint

 

[mt999999]

$130 for that valve on eBay, used none the less... wow, that's insanity. I'll have to ponder on that for a while. I'm currently using an old Crosley wringer washer while this machine is down, and let me tell you, that's something else. Monday wash day... no kidding. It takes all day to do 4 loads of laundry. You have to line dry the clothes, because even 2-3 trips through the wringer are still very damp compared to an automatic spin dryer.

 

[bradfordwhite]

At the very least get a spin drier.

At 3200 RPM this really removes most all the water in a matter of minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Laundry-Alte...1_6?keywords=Spin+Dryer&qid=1658861434&sr=8-6