2 50's Hotpoint Wall Ovens and a dishwasher to Restore

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Hello All- I am new to this forum, and love old appliances. Recently I bought 2 HotPoint Wall Ovens, same models. One is in great shape, needs some cosmetic work but runs and has all of the original pans and accessories! The other has some wiring issues- bare wires and loose, it needs some work. There is a legible wiring diagram on the one, but I am trying to find some more information about them or if I could be so lucky, a manual. The catalog number is 10RJN3

At the same sale, I also bought a HotPoint dishwasher which I also know nothing about but would like to install and use. It has all the accessories as well. 20MC14

Any resources, tips, advice is greatly appreciated!

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I triggered on 'hotpoint' 'wall' and '50s' and sure enough we had one just like that in 1957 except not copper. The pushbuttons light up in different colors.
 
Nice Hotpoint !!!!!

Looks to be about a 1956. I'm currently finishing a rewiring job on a '57 Customline double wall oven. Let me see if I can dig up some literature on this one and I'll also post some tips on rewiring this one and making it more safe for everyday use. Love to see some pictures of the DW.
 
Thanks!

That would be great! The one oven really needs some updated electric, it kind of looks like a mouse did some nibbling on the wires. The cords have been cut on all of them. The colored lights are fully working, it was deifnately a nice surpise!

Here's the dishwasher, I'm hoping to get this into my kitchen soon! May require a bit of remodeling for it to fit....

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Holy cow, we had the DW just before that one too! Smaller knob is about the only diff. If you use it, don't leave it home alone running. The water valve can stick open and water goes everywhere (you can guess how I know that).
 
That DW is great. How about some shots of the inside?

Vintage DW's are great. We've been using a '59 Kitchenaid for about 10 years now.
 
we had the DW just before that one too! Smaller knob is abou

Arbilab, actually the smaller knob was the replacement knob for the original ones which eventually broke off.  the large white one you see on the machine above is the original knob.  We had numerous friends in Dallas whose houses came with these dishwashers.  They were very popular in the 1950s for the middle-class houses being built in the 1950s in Dallas.  they all started out with that big ol' white knob and ended up eventually with the smaller silver/chrome looking thing with the Hotpoint emblem in the center of it.  As a child, I saw this model predominantly in white, but houes built around 1956 or 1957, the friends had Pink and a pale green kitchen appliance colors in their hotpoint kitchens. 
 
Not to be contraceptive, but we moved into a brand new house in FW in summer 1953 with that Hotpoint DW and the small chrome knob. I love remembering stuff like this. At my age, remembering anything at all is a joy.

Just ditch the original open-solenoid/dashpot valve. I was there when it flooded the kitchen. This HP has NO waterlevel sense, it runs only by time. Not that that would have made any difference because the valve mechanically stuck open. Modern valves are ~10x as reliable. Besides, if you could find anyone today to sell you that exact valve they'd want $750 for it.

Now think about it. If that valve was worth $750, would it have flooded the kitchen?
 
Yes Pat, I know. I rather fancy malapriapisms. I figure if 7/8th's of everyone on the internet can abuse apostrophe's without so much as knowing it, I can abuse entire word's deliberately. Not counting there/their/they're though I count those too, just not out loud.
 
EARLY HP DW WATER LEVEL CONTROL

Most of these early HP DW used a metering coil that was wired in series with the motor. And as the DW filled the current draw increased on the main motor as it got a full charge of water in the DW. Once the current draw of the main motor increased to a certain point the coil would pull a plunger up and turn off the water valve, of coerce this will not stop a flood if the inlet valve malfunctions, just like any other DW ever made.
 
No worries Pat. 'Jerk' never occurred to me.

True that, combo, they did sense motor current and I had forgotten about that. What was I saying about remembering? Nevermind, I forgot.
 
Wired

Those nasty little mieces just love to chew ranges to pieces.  You'd think their little butts would get sore from pooping in the spun glass insulation yet store ovens seem to bring them running.  I am axious to see your kitchen when you get the "new" appliances in place.  It never ceases to amaze me how good food tastes when it is made on the ranges we grew up with.

 

Why do mice have such small balls?  Very few of them dance.
 
Oven restoration by Customline please......

Older ovens can be brought up to today's safety standards and be practical for everyday use. The timers and the burner wiring are always going to go on these older units because the timers get gummed up with heat and grease and the burner wiring was not up to snuff then. The first thing to do is take photos inside and out of the unit, especially the inside wiring. Having schematics is helpful too. These photos will come in handy for reassembly. Mark all the wires that go to the automatic timer and then take out the timer. Send your timer to Mid American timers. For $80.00 they will test and rebuild your timer. Just look up their web site and email them. I have already had two timers done by them and they are reliable. Next get yourself some range wire. Range wire comes in 25 foot strands in black, red and white. Range wire is 12 gauge wire that is nickel coated copper and covered with heat resistant fiberglass. Range wire can be ordered from an appliance parts store. You want to rewire your burner connections with this wire so you will never have any more problems with your burners going out and this will also ensure the safety of the unit. Smaller controls like lights and switches I would not worry about too much unless the wiring to these controls are frayed. These older units have to be grounded also. You'll have to find a place to attach a 10 gauge grounding cable to the back of the inside of the unit and then run that cable to the service of your house. Easy off is a good cleaner for these units and new burners can be bought from ebay. there is a guy from Pennsylvania who sells them. Measure your burner first.
 
Wiring

Thanks for all the info everyone, and the history! Love it

The ovens are just wall ovens so I don't have to worry about burners. I will definetely pick up some wire and take lots of pics. Good ideas for sure! Where in PA can I get some parts? I will be there this month visiting family. People in La mostly just throw things away so it's hard to find parts here. But I paid close to nothing for my appliances, so can't complain too much ;).

I also have a GE fridge, the kind with the lazy-susan shelves and need a few things for that. The thermo knob was stuck in place when I got it.

About the mice, I can't possibly understand what the appeal is in chewing wires?! Or the method to the chewing. Insulation, I know on the east coast at least, does keep their little nests warm and snuggly!

Sadly, the ovens I will be fixing up and selling. I just can't get them in my kitchen. So far the whole restoration project has been fun though. I got the metal nice and shiny! Dishwasher is going in though! Can't wait
 
GE Fridge

It depends on what parts you need. I have one that I use as a beverage/party fridge and the spinning shelves are perfect for that application. I would love to see pix of your fridge.

The cold control seems to be the weak link on these fridges. Mine can be adjusted more or less anywhere on the thumbwheel and it makes no difference. The good thing is, it maintains perfect temperature anyway. I have a replacement control but haven't gotten around to installing it.

Picture of my fridge below.

I loved the "contraceptive" remark. Sister Sixto and Norm Crosby are some of my favorite characters!

rp2813++5-31-2011-12-36-42.jpg
 

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