57/58 frigidaire DW-DUZ repairs

[swestoyz]

Thankfully you won't need to create a seal yourself. You more than likely can retrofit a later, more modern seal assembly in place. AFAIK, you can't intermix a boot seal designed for a bronze washer with a ceramic washer, so both need to be swapped out (thus, the Frigidaire kit above). Take a look at the two seal kits below:

This kit is for a 70's Whirlpool. The boot base diameter looks similar to the cast iron full opening for the pump, and the shaft opening also appears to be the right size (I imagine it's 5/16" or 3/8"). The ceramic washer is loose from the impeller (this is good for you) and if the diameter is close to the opening on your impeller, I bet you can use a good RTV silicone sealant to set it in place.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192800170771

This next kit is for a mid 1960's through mid 1970's 15-17 series KitchenAid, that also is mostly similar to an 18-20 series machine. Notice the ceramic washer is imbedded into the rubber impeller, but the boot seal is similar to the Whirlpool.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334468378276

This will take a bit of investigation on your part, but for the most part I think you'll be able to take a kit that is similar to the Whirlpool and make it work for your Frigidaire. When you do end up making this fix, make sure to pull out all old, carbonized rubber and clean up all surfaces as clean as possible. I'd also recommend using RTV on both the impeller side AND the pump base side to ensure a good and proper seal. You may also want to install a o-ring around the shaft to ensure that water doesn't enter the threads of the shaft if the seal became compromised.

Ben[this post was last edited: 8/15/2023-08:11]

 

[delco1946]

Thanks so much Ben! I purchased the kit shown in picture 1 and it looks to be a perfect fit! Dumb question tho: The instructions only discuss the screw used for certain impellers ( doesn’t apply to me). No mention is made to the direction of the components. In examining this, I’m guessing the ceramic washer face rests directly against the underside of the impeller ( seems to produce the least turning friction). The rubber coated side then faces downward onto the rubberized spring piece. In this scenario the washer presumably rotates with the lower rubberized spring.

The first picture shows what I believe the top side orientation (plan view) of each piece, the 2nd photo then shows what I believe to be the downward facing sides, the 3rd pic shows a close up on the rubberized spring (narrow end again facing up), and then the 4th pic shows the stacked orientation. However an alternative orientation is presented in the fifth photo, and you’ll notice the rubberized coating on the ceramic washer now rests against the underside of the impeller, and the smooth, ceramic face, then points downward, and rests directly on the narrow, hard lip of the rubberized spring. In this scenario the washer would probably rotate with the impeller. Confirmation of how the heck to stack these would be appreciated!

I’ll clean out the old gunk and use RTV silicone grease as recommended. I’m hoping this gets me a working (and non-leaking) motor! Thanks again.

 

[delco1946]

Project update ….sigh

This dishwasher is a pain in my ass ha.

So apparently this motor and impeller stack is too short to accommodate the ceramic washer. After tearing it all down, getting a new pump seal, repacking the ball bearing and reassembling, there was too much stacked under the impeller making it impossible to turn. I had accidentally snapped the original washer ( didn’t realize it was so delicate and not metal). It looked similar to the graphite piece that mates to the ceramic washer from the nos kit I purchased ( which consequently started breaking from to much height getting stacked and squeezed under the impeller). Removed the ceramic, so the graphite ring seats directly against the impeller. Seems to be working as no water ended up leaking thru the drain tube ( just everywhere else).

Reinstalled the rebuilt motor, cork gasket, and used pipe dope as I wanted NO leaks. Dragged it outside, hooked it to the garden hose. First problem: the inlet valve connection just passes water constantly even when off. Second problem: the gasket sandwiched between the impeller housing and the tub leaks profusely. Not sure why - bad gasket? Not sandwiched tight enough? Scared to tighten things too much as parts just break on me. It was leaking so much that it was getting everywhere and hard to tell if other areas were leaking too.

Assuming that new gaskets between the housing and tub would help, any ideas where to get replacements? These look pretty thick. I ran out of steam tonight but need to take the inlet valve out and figure out what’s wrong with it.

 

[delco1946]

Inlet valve mini project

Hi folks. Could use the collective’s knowledge. Taking it one small task at a time. The inlet valve wasn’t working and always passing water. I am assuming that it normally should shut off all flow until activated with current (t’would be a very bad design t’other way round).

I took the valve apart and it’s mostly all brass except for one rubber seating gasket that I assume should be soft enough that the spring behind it shuts off all water until current lifts the small needle off it. Sooooo I’ll be doing some googling, but anyone have or know where to get a replacement inlet valve? Or a replacement rubber gasket? Or other suggestions to make this puppy operational again?

Thanks - Christopher

 

[Unimatic1140]

Hi Christopher, just get yourself a water valve rebuild kit here at the link below. You also might want to soak the brass valve body in Lime-Away to remove any scale that might be in the metal parts.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164917781127

 

[delco1946]

Sold!!!

Wow, looks like a perfect match. Nothing like this was coming up in my searches, thanks a bunch!